Suggestions for fixing oil catch can problem
#1
Suggestions for fixing oil catch can problem
Maybe some of you road racing guys might have some ideas. In the FD model (maybe others I dunno but it's just the FD's I've seen with this problem) there is a propensity for oil pickup in the filler neck during hard long left hander corners. During hard cornering oil gets "sloshed" up into the filler neck. This oil gets either sucked up into the PCV line to the UIM or is routed back to the turbo inlet. The result is oil pooling everywhere inthe intake tract. The PCV line and turbo line are typically just a means of venting oil pan/crankcase pressure from "combustion blowby." Ok now add a race suspension and sticky tires and it's not just gas being vented but oil too!
But to the point. I added a vented catch can to catch the oil being pushed out of the oil filler neck and yet still relieve "crankcase" pressure. Trouble is on tracks run clockwise the catch can fills in a hurry and thus simply begins to oil down the side of the car **AND THE REAR TIRES!** This makes for quite and exciting ride.
So I'm soliciting suggestions from anyone racing an FD on how they have remedied this problem.
For details on what I've tried you can go here (but none of which has worked to my satisfaction):
http://reganrotaryracing.tripod.com/catch.htm
TIA
Crispy
But to the point. I added a vented catch can to catch the oil being pushed out of the oil filler neck and yet still relieve "crankcase" pressure. Trouble is on tracks run clockwise the catch can fills in a hurry and thus simply begins to oil down the side of the car **AND THE REAR TIRES!** This makes for quite and exciting ride.
So I'm soliciting suggestions from anyone racing an FD on how they have remedied this problem.
For details on what I've tried you can go here (but none of which has worked to my satisfaction):
http://reganrotaryracing.tripod.com/catch.htm
TIA
Crispy
#2
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Have you tried an oil pan baffle plate? This would prevent the oil from being "sloshed" up too much. (FYI: Racing Beat has them).
BTW, has anyone tried the Moroso oil pan??????
http://www.optauto.com/webstore/prod...k=yes&dept=878
BTW, has anyone tried the Moroso oil pan??????
http://www.optauto.com/webstore/prod...k=yes&dept=878
Last edited by DomFD3S; 09-23-03 at 12:47 PM.
#4
Ex fd *****
Has anyone tried adding a drain line from the catch can back to the Pan? So the catch can would be self draining. Maybe using the oil level switch fitting location on the pan? You might also need a check valve in the return to prevent oil traveling up the line and into the catch can. It is just something I have been thinking about.
#6
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Originally posted by maxpesce
Has anyone tried adding a drain line from the catch can back to the Pan? So the catch can would be self draining. Maybe using the oil level switch fitting location on the pan?
Has anyone tried adding a drain line from the catch can back to the Pan? So the catch can would be self draining. Maybe using the oil level switch fitting location on the pan?
I have not yet modified my fill tube, but I have a few ideas. One of which is from the old days of just inserting a tube into the nipples of the oil filler. Since the nipples are flush with the insides of the oil fill tube, any oil traveling up the walls of the tube automatically finds its way out the nipples. If you put a tube through the nipple that actually extended into the middle of the oil filler tube, any oil sloshing up the walls would not be able to get into the nipple. For oil to come in it would have to actually be lofted all the way into the air and find itself at the entry to the tube. I think this alone would dramatically reduce the amount of oil ingested.
#7
Great ideas guys and all which I have considered also.
Regarding draining it back to the pan you would still need a check valve of sorts as you wouldn't want any "crankcase" pressure actually pushing oil up the drain tube and into the catch can. But yes it's an idea.
Draining the oil back to the fill tube is also another great idea. The problem, in my case, with using one of the existing nipples is that the drain of my catch can is below the level of the nipple so it wouldn't drain all the way. I have considered tapping the fill tube itself and inserting a fitting with hose extending to the center of the fill tube for draining oil back as you noted.
So is anyone going to try this or am I to be the guinea pig
Thanks for the insights,
Crispy
- glad not to be alone with this problem
Regarding draining it back to the pan you would still need a check valve of sorts as you wouldn't want any "crankcase" pressure actually pushing oil up the drain tube and into the catch can. But yes it's an idea.
Draining the oil back to the fill tube is also another great idea. The problem, in my case, with using one of the existing nipples is that the drain of my catch can is below the level of the nipple so it wouldn't drain all the way. I have considered tapping the fill tube itself and inserting a fitting with hose extending to the center of the fill tube for draining oil back as you noted.
So is anyone going to try this or am I to be the guinea pig
Thanks for the insights,
Crispy
- glad not to be alone with this problem
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#8
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Originally posted by CrispyRX7
Regarding draining it back to the pan you would still need a check valve of sorts as you wouldn't want any "crankcase" pressure actually pushing oil up the drain tube and into the catch can.
Regarding draining it back to the pan you would still need a check valve of sorts as you wouldn't want any "crankcase" pressure actually pushing oil up the drain tube and into the catch can.
Originally posted by CrispyRX7
Draining the oil back to the fill tube is also another great idea. The problem, in my case, with using one of the existing nipples is that the drain of my catch can is below the level of the nipple so it wouldn't drain all the way.
Draining the oil back to the fill tube is also another great idea. The problem, in my case, with using one of the existing nipples is that the drain of my catch can is below the level of the nipple so it wouldn't drain all the way.
#9
Originally posted by CrispyRX7
Regarding draining it back to the pan you would still need a check valve of sorts as you wouldn't want any "crankcase" pressure actually pushing oil up the drain tube and into the catch can.
Regarding draining it back to the pan you would still need a check valve of sorts as you wouldn't want any "crankcase" pressure actually pushing oil up the drain tube and into the catch can.
Originally posted by CrispyRX7
Draining the oil back to the fill tube is also another great idea. The problem, in my case, with using one of the existing nipples is that the drain of my catch can is below the level of the nipple so it wouldn't drain all the way.
Draining the oil back to the fill tube is also another great idea. The problem, in my case, with using one of the existing nipples is that the drain of my catch can is below the level of the nipple so it wouldn't drain all the way.
A one way valve is a good idea, but it would have to be very "soft". It must open under the mere weight of the oil.
Crispy
- trying hard not to overcomplicate what should be a simple problem to fix
#10
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Originally posted by CrispyRX7
And insn't there soem "blowby" pst the side seals that can pressurize the oil pan?
And insn't there soem "blowby" pst the side seals that can pressurize the oil pan?
Originally posted by CrispyRX7
And herein lays the problem. Then again if done this way is a check valve even necesary? Any pressure is going to feed out the top of the filler tube, the upper line, into the top fiting of the catch can (which should be a void space at atmospheric pressure) rather than trying to push oil up the drain tube from the bottom of the catch can.
And herein lays the problem. Then again if done this way is a check valve even necesary? Any pressure is going to feed out the top of the filler tube, the upper line, into the top fiting of the catch can (which should be a void space at atmospheric pressure) rather than trying to push oil up the drain tube from the bottom of the catch can.
#11
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Originally posted by CrispyRX7
Great ideas guys and all which I have considered also.
Regarding draining it back to the pan you would still need a check valve of sorts as you wouldn't want any "crankcase" pressure actually pushing oil up the drain tube and into the catch can. But yes it's an idea.
Draining the oil back to the fill tube is also another great idea. The problem, in my case, with using one of the existing nipples is that the drain of my catch can is below the level of the nipple so it wouldn't drain all the way. I have considered tapping the fill tube itself and inserting a fitting with hose extending to the center of the fill tube for draining oil back as you noted.
So is anyone going to try this or am I to be the guinea pig
Thanks for the insights,
Crispy
- glad not to be alone with this problem
Great ideas guys and all which I have considered also.
Regarding draining it back to the pan you would still need a check valve of sorts as you wouldn't want any "crankcase" pressure actually pushing oil up the drain tube and into the catch can. But yes it's an idea.
Draining the oil back to the fill tube is also another great idea. The problem, in my case, with using one of the existing nipples is that the drain of my catch can is below the level of the nipple so it wouldn't drain all the way. I have considered tapping the fill tube itself and inserting a fitting with hose extending to the center of the fill tube for draining oil back as you noted.
So is anyone going to try this or am I to be the guinea pig
Thanks for the insights,
Crispy
- glad not to be alone with this problem
Crispy,
Your oil return line will work from the JAZ catch can if you plumb into one of the turbo oil return tubes (front is probably the best). I'm doing that on my single. Obviously more difficult if you still have stock twins, but you could probably make a custom fitting that would work.
Gene
#12
Originally posted by CrispyRX7
And insn't there soem "blowby" pst the side seals that can pressurize the oil pan?
And insn't there soem "blowby" pst the side seals that can pressurize the oil pan?
Originally posted by CrispyRX7
And herein lays the problem. Then again if done this way is a check valve even necesary? Any pressure is going to feed out the top of the filler tube, the upper line, into the top fiting of the catch can (which should be a void space at atmospheric pressure) rather than trying to push oil up the drain tube from the bottom of the catch can.
And herein lays the problem. Then again if done this way is a check valve even necesary? Any pressure is going to feed out the top of the filler tube, the upper line, into the top fiting of the catch can (which should be a void space at atmospheric pressure) rather than trying to push oil up the drain tube from the bottom of the catch can.
Gene,
Your oil return line will work from the JAZ catch can if you plumb into one of the turbo oil return tubes (front is probably the best). I'm doing that on my single. Obviously more difficult if you still have stock twins, but you could probably make a custom fitting that would work.
I've heard of this done. My only reservation is running the line from the drivers side all the way over to the pax (turbo) side of the car. It would have to go under the engine, no? And seeing as I still have the stock twins for me, yes, it would be more difficult. Something to explore though for sure.
Thanks.
Anymore suggestions
Crispy
#17
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Originally posted by CrispyRX7
my thoughts exactly. Or at least tap it lower than the bottom fitting on the catch can.
And herein lays the problem. Then again if done this way is a check valve even necesary? Any pressure is going to feed out the top of the filler tube, the upper line, into the top fiting of the catch can (which should be a void space at atmospheric pressure) rather than trying to push oil up the drain tube from the bottom of the catch can. Thoughts?
Crispy
- trying hard not to overcomplicate what should be a simple problem to fix
my thoughts exactly. Or at least tap it lower than the bottom fitting on the catch can.
And herein lays the problem. Then again if done this way is a check valve even necesary? Any pressure is going to feed out the top of the filler tube, the upper line, into the top fiting of the catch can (which should be a void space at atmospheric pressure) rather than trying to push oil up the drain tube from the bottom of the catch can. Thoughts?
Crispy
- trying hard not to overcomplicate what should be a simple problem to fix
If this works, then catch can becomes a buffer or accumulator, and we need enough capacity to hold whatever spills over during the worst case, high-G, right turn.
So, who's going to volunteer for skidpad testing?
Last edited by artowar; 09-24-03 at 09:24 PM.
#18
FWIW I already have some contraption/gauge rigged to measure filler neck (crankcase) "pressure" to 1) see if there really is any pressure or if it's entirely oil slosh and 2) to see if at any time there is an atmospheric condition or marginal vacuum (although I don't know when) to allow drainback of oil into the filler neck from the catch can. I also plan to do a quick and dirty bench top test to see if oil will gravity feed through a PCV valve that I might consider using for a return line check valve.
Will report back later..unless someone beats me to it
Crispy
PS Pauly...$1000 was tongue in cheek as I have no idea what a dry sump would run... You on the other hand am sure know
Will report back later..unless someone beats me to it
Crispy
PS Pauly...$1000 was tongue in cheek as I have no idea what a dry sump would run... You on the other hand am sure know
#22
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Originally posted by DamonB
But wouldn't the blow by also have to blow by the coolant passages to get into the oil pan? Or blow by at the sides of the rotors that made its way into the rotor bearings would merely intermix with the oil. These combustion gases would then be present, but not pressurizing the oil pan. The PCV is a mandated devices to consume these gases inside the motor. The pan itself cannot possibly be pressurised?
But wouldn't the blow by also have to blow by the coolant passages to get into the oil pan? Or blow by at the sides of the rotors that made its way into the rotor bearings would merely intermix with the oil. These combustion gases would then be present, but not pressurizing the oil pan. The PCV is a mandated devices to consume these gases inside the motor. The pan itself cannot possibly be pressurised?
Works just like worn rings on a piston motor.....
Let us know what kind of pressure you see at the filler tube. I run the same Jaz catch can on a NA under high G cornering and have never had to drain a drop out of it. I also have a RB sump baffle and additional internal baffling added to the pan.
#23
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Originally posted by CrispyRX7
I've heard of this done. My only reservation is running the line from the drivers side all the way over to the pax (turbo) side of the car. It would have to go under the engine, no? And seeing as I still have the stock twins for me, yes, it would be more difficult. Something to explore though for sure.
Thanks.
Anymore suggestions
Crispy [/B]
I've heard of this done. My only reservation is running the line from the drivers side all the way over to the pax (turbo) side of the car. It would have to go under the engine, no? And seeing as I still have the stock twins for me, yes, it would be more difficult. Something to explore though for sure.
Thanks.
Anymore suggestions
Crispy [/B]
What do you think?
Gene
#24
Gene,
Definitely an option. I still think that hard line is a bit too high but I'll take a look.
Some say there is pressure in the pan some say not.
As for whether I see pressure in the pan or not, I'll have to test and see
BTW the pan baffle is not available for the FD
Crispy
Definitely an option. I still think that hard line is a bit too high but I'll take a look.
Some say there is pressure in the pan some say not.
As for whether I see pressure in the pan or not, I'll have to test and see
BTW the pan baffle is not available for the FD
Crispy