Suggestions for fixing oil catch can problem
#51
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Originally posted by bradrx7
It's shown on Crispy's site at the bottom http://reganrotaryracing.tripod.com/catch.htm
Basically you cut a Williams-Sonoma stainless steel baster 3.75" from the tip and epoxy it into your oil filler cap. This creates a longer path for the oil to slosh out the filler tube. This is the mod John Eppley developed to augment the Jaz catch can breather mod.
It's shown on Crispy's site at the bottom http://reganrotaryracing.tripod.com/catch.htm
Basically you cut a Williams-Sonoma stainless steel baster 3.75" from the tip and epoxy it into your oil filler cap. This creates a longer path for the oil to slosh out the filler tube. This is the mod John Eppley developed to augment the Jaz catch can breather mod.
Last edited by SleepR1; 09-29-03 at 01:11 PM.
#52
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Originally posted by CrispyRX7
Manny,
You are correct. Turbo oil drain tube NOT the turbo air intake pipe/elbow.
Crispy
Manny,
You are correct. Turbo oil drain tube NOT the turbo air intake pipe/elbow.
Crispy
#53
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Originally posted by bradrx7
It was developed by our <track> friend, John Eppley. John found the baster, fitted it to his track car's (which is very similar to mine) Jaz catch can (which I found initially and was marketed by Pauly Dee's old shop). Anyway, the baster mod should be called the Eppley-Williams-Sonoma mod.. or short version, the Eppley Baster mod.
It was developed by our <track> friend, John Eppley. John found the baster, fitted it to his track car's (which is very similar to mine) Jaz catch can (which I found initially and was marketed by Pauly Dee's old shop). Anyway, the baster mod should be called the Eppley-Williams-Sonoma mod.. or short version, the Eppley Baster mod.
#54
Pauly's version is exactly what I run, with a plastic ell pushed through a drilled hole. Works fine even if it does get a tiny bit if spray around the ell which cleans off after events during normal clean-up.
Eppley came up with his baster mod to the Jaz system after he experienced slosh on fast CW tracks.
BTW, want long high G turns? Drive Texas World Speedway. All you can eat.
BTW #2 Manny, I was only kidding you about 'technical' tracks and driving fast. When you are sloshing oil out the oil filler, you are driving plenty fast. <G>
Eppley came up with his baster mod to the Jaz system after he experienced slosh on fast CW tracks.
BTW, want long high G turns? Drive Texas World Speedway. All you can eat.
BTW #2 Manny, I was only kidding you about 'technical' tracks and driving fast. When you are sloshing oil out the oil filler, you are driving plenty fast. <G>
#55
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Originally posted by bradrx7
Pauly's version is exactly what I run, with a plastic ell pushed through a drilled hole. Works fine even if it does get a tiny bit if spray around the ell which cleans off after events during normal clean-up.
Pauly's version is exactly what I run, with a plastic ell pushed through a drilled hole. Works fine even if it does get a tiny bit if spray around the ell which cleans off after events during normal clean-up.
Eppley came up with his baster mod to the Jaz system after he experienced slosh on fast CW tracks.
BTW, want long high G turns? Drive Texas World Speedway. All you can eat.
BTW #2 Manny, I was only kidding you about 'technical' tracks and driving fast. When you are sloshing oil out the oil filler, you are driving plenty fast. <G>
#56
Awh...dang...you mean I have to disassemble the oil filler neck again to re-route the catch can oil drain tube back to the primary turbo vacuum line vent? What a PITA!
The two options floated were to tap into the filler neck witha a nipple fitting using a small check valve to stop flow *up* the drain line..or simply hose the drain directly to the dipstick tube. Have to run without disptick though whcih woudl make checking oil level a PITA. **OR** run a cacth can drain line over to a turbo oil drain line with a "T" fitting.
'is all I got.
Crispy
#57
_________________________
I ran a track day in Sweden and discovered I am having the same problem with oil in the manifold and elbow pipe.
This thread has been a great help to me, in finding a solution. My question. Why is Brads Jaz -Baster combo not over filling like Manny's and Crispy's? It seems you all are running the same basic system. The only thing I have noticed that is different, would be the length of the baster. Brad cut it at 3.5" and Crispy from 4-6". Can the length have an effect on the amount of oil slosh traveling up the funnel? Or is this not a factor?
I look forward to hear what you decide on Crispy. I think the dipstick sound like a easy one to try first.
//Oliver
This thread has been a great help to me, in finding a solution. My question. Why is Brads Jaz -Baster combo not over filling like Manny's and Crispy's? It seems you all are running the same basic system. The only thing I have noticed that is different, would be the length of the baster. Brad cut it at 3.5" and Crispy from 4-6". Can the length have an effect on the amount of oil slosh traveling up the funnel? Or is this not a factor?
I look forward to hear what you decide on Crispy. I think the dipstick sound like a easy one to try first.
//Oliver
#58
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Originally posted by CrispyRX7
**OR** run a cacth can drain line over to a turbo oil drain line with a "T" fitting.
**OR** run a cacth can drain line over to a turbo oil drain line with a "T" fitting.
#59
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Originally posted by SleepR1
IMHO, this might be the best option, or the least PITA, depending on where the turbo oil drain line is??
IMHO, this might be the best option, or the least PITA, depending on where the turbo oil drain line is??
An aftermarket turbo will have an oil return out the bottom as well that will then go to a fitting that is tapped into the stock return in the block. The second unused oil return in the block would be covered and sealed. Typically the supply and return are braided stainless hoses supplied with the kit.
#61
Manny, TWS doesn't use any of the banked turns, just the main straight (which is banked but not a factor. It just has a lot of fast long turns many of which are flat or slightly cambered. I go into turn one over 155 without a lift for example. Hoo-yeh....
OC94Rx7... I think Crispy's 4-6" was a guesstimate. The cut at 3.75" puts the baster tip very near the bottom of the filler. As for why it works on my car and John Eppley's yet not on others... ? Here are some data points: We both run full slicks, we both run very stiff springs (1000/700 for me) on gutted cars and we both run SR Motorsports built single turbo motors. Coincidence?
OC94Rx7... I think Crispy's 4-6" was a guesstimate. The cut at 3.75" puts the baster tip very near the bottom of the filler. As for why it works on my car and John Eppley's yet not on others... ? Here are some data points: We both run full slicks, we both run very stiff springs (1000/700 for me) on gutted cars and we both run SR Motorsports built single turbo motors. Coincidence?
#62
Coincidence?
And yes 4-6" was a guesstimate. Go with 3.5"
Damon,
Yes please can you confirm if the turbo Oil retrun lines are gravity fed "zero" pressure lines or do they see some residual pressure from the turbo oil feed line?
I am merely going on heresay (from Gene and others)
TIA
Crispy
#63
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Originally posted by CrispyRX7
if the turbo Oil retrun lines are gravity fed "zero" pressure lines or do they see some residual pressure from the turbo oil feed line?
I am merely going on heresay (from Gene and others)
TIA
Crispy
if the turbo Oil retrun lines are gravity fed "zero" pressure lines or do they see some residual pressure from the turbo oil feed line?
I am merely going on heresay (from Gene and others)
TIA
Crispy
I seem to remember if the flanges at the engine block are not tightened, they will leak a considerable amount of oil.
#64
Paul D'Angelo (did I get that right? ),
I would tend to agree...sorta. Just thinking about the design though I would liken it to any other journal(?) bearing. Similar to a crankshaft bearing or eshaft bearing. Oil is forcefed in under high pressure, does it's lubrication job, then merely flows out the other side under little if any "pressure" and gravity flows it's way back to the pan. Just because it's high pressure on one side doesn't necessarily mean prerssure on the other. Kinda like a dam with a pinhole in it...huge pressure on one side and a mere trickle on the other.
As for the leaky oil fitting/connection to the oil pan the oil pan leaks like a seive also if the seal isn't good enough and it's under no pressure either ....but I see your point.
I'd hate to plumb the catch can drain into one of those lines and have the turbo oil line pressure fill up the catch can!
Crispy
I would tend to agree...sorta. Just thinking about the design though I would liken it to any other journal(?) bearing. Similar to a crankshaft bearing or eshaft bearing. Oil is forcefed in under high pressure, does it's lubrication job, then merely flows out the other side under little if any "pressure" and gravity flows it's way back to the pan. Just because it's high pressure on one side doesn't necessarily mean prerssure on the other. Kinda like a dam with a pinhole in it...huge pressure on one side and a mere trickle on the other.
As for the leaky oil fitting/connection to the oil pan the oil pan leaks like a seive also if the seal isn't good enough and it's under no pressure either ....but I see your point.
I'd hate to plumb the catch can drain into one of those lines and have the turbo oil line pressure fill up the catch can!
Crispy
#65
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Originally posted by CrispyRX7
I think not
And yes 4-6" was a guesstimate. Go with 3.5"
Damon,
Yes please can you confirm if the turbo Oil retrun lines are gravity fed "zero" pressure lines or do they see some residual pressure from the turbo oil feed line?
I am merely going on heresay (from Gene and others)
TIA
Crispy
I think not
And yes 4-6" was a guesstimate. Go with 3.5"
Damon,
Yes please can you confirm if the turbo Oil retrun lines are gravity fed "zero" pressure lines or do they see some residual pressure from the turbo oil feed line?
I am merely going on heresay (from Gene and others)
TIA
Crispy
Gene
#66
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Originally posted by CrispyRX7
I'd hate to plumb the catch can drain into one of those lines and have the turbo oil line pressure fill up the catch can!
I'd hate to plumb the catch can drain into one of those lines and have the turbo oil line pressure fill up the catch can!
#67
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Originally posted by bradrx7
Manny, TWS doesn't use any of the banked turns, just the main straight (which is banked but not a factor. It just has a lot of fast long turns many of which are flat or slightly cambered. I go into turn one over 155 without a lift for example. Hoo-yeh....
Manny, TWS doesn't use any of the banked turns, just the main straight (which is banked but not a factor. It just has a lot of fast long turns many of which are flat or slightly cambered. I go into turn one over 155 without a lift for example. Hoo-yeh....
#68
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OC94Rx7,
This is off-topic, but how hard was it to replace those new oil injectors? I'm thinking of installing new ones, as I'll be replacing a couple solenoid/valves on the solenoid rack in the next couple of weekends...
This is off-topic, but how hard was it to replace those new oil injectors? I'm thinking of installing new ones, as I'll be replacing a couple solenoid/valves on the solenoid rack in the next couple of weekends...
#69
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Originally posted by gfelber
I must confess. It's heresay from me as well, but from an excellent source. Brain @M2 said he does/did this on his World Challenge cars. These were all single turbo cars.
Gene
I must confess. It's heresay from me as well, but from an excellent source. Brain @M2 said he does/did this on his World Challenge cars. These were all single turbo cars.
Gene
#70
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The turbo oil return lines are under very little pressure. For practical purposes I would say none at all. The oil feed is of course under pressure but there are restrictors in the lines. What comes out of the turbos is essentially gravity fed back to the pan.
#72
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I'm going to be doing this while the engine is apart, so I think I will drill and tap the intermediate plate just below the oil filler neck. Should make for a very sturdy fitting and short lines.
At first I thought about attaching to the bottom of the oil filler neck, but with it being plastic I didn't want the fitting to break out of the neck and cause a big problem.
Dipstick tube sounds like a good second choice to me, just a little bit more difficult to do than a standard drill and tap. (ie: drill and braze)
At first I thought about attaching to the bottom of the oil filler neck, but with it being plastic I didn't want the fitting to break out of the neck and cause a big problem.
Dipstick tube sounds like a good second choice to me, just a little bit more difficult to do than a standard drill and tap. (ie: drill and braze)
#73
Tyson,
Keep in mind tha oil slosh up that side of the motor is the reason oil ends up in the filler neck and out to the catch can. As noted earlier some kind of check valve in that drain line if you do decide to tap the filler neck base somewhere might be adviseable.
Crispy
Keep in mind tha oil slosh up that side of the motor is the reason oil ends up in the filler neck and out to the catch can. As noted earlier some kind of check valve in that drain line if you do decide to tap the filler neck base somewhere might be adviseable.
Crispy
#74
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I don't know about it being absolutely required. I would have to completely fill my catch can on one corner to cause a problem, I think. Also, any oil coming up that line to the tank would have to overcome say 6" of 'head' in a 1/4" line plus any 'head' created by the depth of oil in the catch can. With your current setup, it is travelling up the very large filler neck and then down the small hose, a much easier path for a viscous fluid like oil.
I think as long as your can is big enough to take 1 or 2 corners worth of oil, it will drain back out before it overflows, as on every straight and on right hand corners it will be draining.
I think as long as your can is big enough to take 1 or 2 corners worth of oil, it will drain back out before it overflows, as on every straight and on right hand corners it will be draining.
#75
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Originally posted by bradrx7
OC94Rx7... I think Crispy's 4-6" was a guesstimate. The cut at 3.75" puts the baster tip very near the bottom of the filler. As for why it works on my car and John Eppley's yet not on others... ? Here are some data points: We both run full slicks, we both run very stiff springs (1000/700 for me) on gutted cars and we both run SR Motorsports built single turbo motors. Coincidence?
OC94Rx7... I think Crispy's 4-6" was a guesstimate. The cut at 3.75" puts the baster tip very near the bottom of the filler. As for why it works on my car and John Eppley's yet not on others... ? Here are some data points: We both run full slicks, we both run very stiff springs (1000/700 for me) on gutted cars and we both run SR Motorsports built single turbo motors. Coincidence?
Manny - check your PM