SSM Autox Front Tire - Paging Chadwick & Strelnieks
#51
dorito powered
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Location: Lincoln, NE
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don't they have 17s though and not 18s? running a smaller sidewall (like a 35) instead of the usual 40 or 45 seen on 17s would reduce the amount of rub that could possibly take place.
#54
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (283)
At Kyles' request:
FRONT
315/30/18 A6
18x11, 7.5" backspace, CCW Classic
No fender liners(filled in opening with thin Al from inside)
Stock fender lips flatted and streched up&out with English wheel.
Custom UCA
3.0 camber, 1/16" toe out
Koni 2812's , 900# springs
All bushings replaced with spherical bearings
Rear
335/30/18 A6
18x12, 7.5" backspace, CCW Classic
Fender lip cutback about 2", Pettit Flares
2.25 camber, 1/8" toe in
After market trailing and toe arms
Koni 2812, 800# springs
All bushings replaced with spherical bearings
Jim and Carter T
FRONT
315/30/18 A6
18x11, 7.5" backspace, CCW Classic
No fender liners(filled in opening with thin Al from inside)
Stock fender lips flatted and streched up&out with English wheel.
Custom UCA
3.0 camber, 1/16" toe out
Koni 2812's , 900# springs
All bushings replaced with spherical bearings
Rear
335/30/18 A6
18x12, 7.5" backspace, CCW Classic
Fender lip cutback about 2", Pettit Flares
2.25 camber, 1/8" toe in
After market trailing and toe arms
Koni 2812, 800# springs
All bushings replaced with spherical bearings
Jim and Carter T
#56
Senior Member
In regards to front camber there is an easy way to get 4.5 degrees at the front. What I did was take the stock upper arm and some delrin or aluminum to a machine shop. They removed the old bushing and installed one they machined, but with the hole for the bolt off centre. Then a metal sleeve inside that ( a la jimlab's bushings) and you're done .
I have had bo probems. I did drill and tap the bushing so it wouldn't rotate , and I run a 330 roadracing slick in front.
I have had bo probems. I did drill and tap the bushing so it wouldn't rotate , and I run a 330 roadracing slick in front.
#63
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
I'm thinking about changing setups for next season. Is there are reason why a 335 wouldn't fit up front? I run 295/35/17 A6's now on stock front fenders, to fit the 315 they will need modification anyways, so am I talking crazy to try and fit a 335 in the front? No one seems to do it, why?
#65
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Running from memory here so please excuse me if I'm missing anything obvious.
Lets assume a 12" wheel with the usual 7.5" backspace, the inside shouldn't pose any real problems. I'm thinking the upper fender (obviously), fender liner removed (probably has to happen for 315's anyways). The front and rear of the fender arch might need more room (3 and 9 o'clock) cutting these out will look terrible but is class legal. The biggest hassle I can think of is if the unibody becomes an obstacle, been a while since I've been in there so that might be the hard and fast cant do it point.. Probably other minor things could get in the way, like oil cooler locations and front lip's.
#67
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Anyone here doing any of the street tire events. A couple years back I stopped racing to spend more time with family, but I'm getting back into it again now.
A bunch of my buddies do the Optima Ultimate Street Car Challenge events, LS Fest, Midwest muscle car challenge, etc. All of these events are 200 TW events and require the use of the BFG Rival S tire, if you want to be competitive.
My last autox setup looked like this (285/315 Hoosier A6 setup):
- 3.2 deg camber front, zero toe. 5.5 deg caster. 900 lb/in springs. 25.125" ride height.
- 1.0 deg camber rear, zero toe. 780 lb/in springs. 25.625" ride height.
This seemed to work really well.
I did my first autox event on the Rival S tires last weekend to get some seat time with these newe tires, and the car needs some changes to work with those less grippy tires. Here is what I'll be trying next event, but wanted to see what you guys think.
New tires are 275/35/18, and 315/30/18 BFG Rival S.
- Change to from 900lb to 780 lb front springs. (~13% softer)
- Change from 780 lb to 670 lb rear springs. (~15% softer)
- Soften front bar by one adjustment hole. (~8% softer)
- Dial back some front camber, maybe try going from 3.2 to 2.7 degrees.
I really don't have any street tire experience, so this is just what I'm thinking may work from my one event experience with modern high grip street tires. Anyone else have experience or input/thoughts?
I know this really doesn't have much to do with front tires fitting, but all the right guys seem to be in here discussing setups.
A bunch of my buddies do the Optima Ultimate Street Car Challenge events, LS Fest, Midwest muscle car challenge, etc. All of these events are 200 TW events and require the use of the BFG Rival S tire, if you want to be competitive.
My last autox setup looked like this (285/315 Hoosier A6 setup):
- 3.2 deg camber front, zero toe. 5.5 deg caster. 900 lb/in springs. 25.125" ride height.
- 1.0 deg camber rear, zero toe. 780 lb/in springs. 25.625" ride height.
This seemed to work really well.
I did my first autox event on the Rival S tires last weekend to get some seat time with these newe tires, and the car needs some changes to work with those less grippy tires. Here is what I'll be trying next event, but wanted to see what you guys think.
New tires are 275/35/18, and 315/30/18 BFG Rival S.
- Change to from 900lb to 780 lb front springs. (~13% softer)
- Change from 780 lb to 670 lb rear springs. (~15% softer)
- Soften front bar by one adjustment hole. (~8% softer)
- Dial back some front camber, maybe try going from 3.2 to 2.7 degrees.
I really don't have any street tire experience, so this is just what I'm thinking may work from my one event experience with modern high grip street tires. Anyone else have experience or input/thoughts?
I know this really doesn't have much to do with front tires fitting, but all the right guys seem to be in here discussing setups.
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