Specs NASA Super Unlimited Widebody FC
Specs NASA Super Unlimited Widebody FC
what do ya think? Here's a quick overview;
NASA Super Unlimited Race car in progress, Lots of Aero, and soon to be ~500 rwhp. 335 Kumho road race tires to make it stick. This car started life as midnight racer, making~530 hp, and sporting the stock bronze color, and no wing, the car was quite the sleeper. When I purchased it, the owner had switched the car to a .60/.81 P trim TO4S. The turbo gives instantaneous boost, spinning 235-40-17 R compound tires all the way through first an second gears. That's nice for autocross, but I plan to rad race this car in the NASA Super unlimited class. With that in mind we will be switching to a T66 .81 Q trim in the quest for ~500rwhp with good response. If that comes up short we will use a Garrett GT40R Ball bearing 67mm turbo in a .94ar. The tire wheel combo has been my biggest dilema, I want to run 335s out back and 315s up front, but the only two R compounds available are the Kumho Ecsta 700(known for chunking out), and the Hoosiers(expensive, and don't last)My saving grace may be the viper club, as they run Michelin Pilot slicks in these sizes. I am working on getting a connection for scrubs, so my budget survives the tire costs. The Body is a mix of a Tripoint flare kit, a Rotary Extreme GTC nose, a custom reverse cowl hood(copied from the 3rd gen Mazdaspeed piece), and a BIG wing. I'd like to run the RE wing, but at ~1200.00 I will have to find something else. I may also create a functional roof scoop utilizing the stock TII hood scoop(we shall see). Anyway the goal is a road racing beast able to hang with just about any thing out there(in the amatuer ranks) I will keep the updates coming, as I finish them. Later for now Carl Byck 707-696-2705
Battery / Charging / Wiring
Body
custom Aluminum Splitter, and undertray
large dual plane aluminum wing
Rotary Extreme GTC nose
Tripoint wide body
Brakes
Carbotech XP pads
Motul 600
power slot rotors
stainless braided lines
Cooling
90% water, 10% glycol, redline Water Wetter
Custom AST
dual electric fans
Dual oil coolers in series
Huge custom Griffin radiator
Drivetrain
ECU
haltech E6K
Electronics
AVCR, E6K, TE WBO2,
Engine
88 plates
95 rotors, and housings w/ large street port
every oil, and cooling mod
Exhaust
Custom 3-1/2" DP
RB turbo back
Fuel
-6 AN Braided lines
750primaries, 1600 secondaries
Huge Bosch Pump
SX RRFPR
Gauges
every one!
Ignition
10mm wires
NGK Race plugs
Three MSD 6A
Intake
Blitz
Interior
none
Suspension
550lb front / 300lb rear springs
camber plates
Ground Control coilovers
Toe eliminator
Tires / Wheels
CCW 17x10 Front, 17x12 Rear
Kumho 275-40-17 front
Kumho 335-35-17 Rear
Turbo
TO4S, soon T66
Weight Reduction
Gutted
NASA Super Unlimited Race car in progress, Lots of Aero, and soon to be ~500 rwhp. 335 Kumho road race tires to make it stick. This car started life as midnight racer, making~530 hp, and sporting the stock bronze color, and no wing, the car was quite the sleeper. When I purchased it, the owner had switched the car to a .60/.81 P trim TO4S. The turbo gives instantaneous boost, spinning 235-40-17 R compound tires all the way through first an second gears. That's nice for autocross, but I plan to rad race this car in the NASA Super unlimited class. With that in mind we will be switching to a T66 .81 Q trim in the quest for ~500rwhp with good response. If that comes up short we will use a Garrett GT40R Ball bearing 67mm turbo in a .94ar. The tire wheel combo has been my biggest dilema, I want to run 335s out back and 315s up front, but the only two R compounds available are the Kumho Ecsta 700(known for chunking out), and the Hoosiers(expensive, and don't last)My saving grace may be the viper club, as they run Michelin Pilot slicks in these sizes. I am working on getting a connection for scrubs, so my budget survives the tire costs. The Body is a mix of a Tripoint flare kit, a Rotary Extreme GTC nose, a custom reverse cowl hood(copied from the 3rd gen Mazdaspeed piece), and a BIG wing. I'd like to run the RE wing, but at ~1200.00 I will have to find something else. I may also create a functional roof scoop utilizing the stock TII hood scoop(we shall see). Anyway the goal is a road racing beast able to hang with just about any thing out there(in the amatuer ranks) I will keep the updates coming, as I finish them. Later for now Carl Byck 707-696-2705
Battery / Charging / Wiring
Body
custom Aluminum Splitter, and undertray
large dual plane aluminum wing
Rotary Extreme GTC nose
Tripoint wide body
Brakes
Carbotech XP pads
Motul 600
power slot rotors
stainless braided lines
Cooling
90% water, 10% glycol, redline Water Wetter
Custom AST
dual electric fans
Dual oil coolers in series
Huge custom Griffin radiator
Drivetrain
ECU
haltech E6K
Electronics
AVCR, E6K, TE WBO2,
Engine
88 plates
95 rotors, and housings w/ large street port
every oil, and cooling mod
Exhaust
Custom 3-1/2" DP
RB turbo back
Fuel
-6 AN Braided lines
750primaries, 1600 secondaries
Huge Bosch Pump
SX RRFPR
Gauges
every one!
Ignition
10mm wires
NGK Race plugs
Three MSD 6A
Intake
Blitz
Interior
none
Suspension
550lb front / 300lb rear springs
camber plates
Ground Control coilovers
Toe eliminator
Tires / Wheels
CCW 17x10 Front, 17x12 Rear
Kumho 275-40-17 front
Kumho 335-35-17 Rear
Turbo
TO4S, soon T66
Weight Reduction
Gutted
pics
I cannot get the pics up on this forum, so go to this thread
http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...threadid=20028
http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...threadid=20028
you need bigger brakes! if it was me, i'd splurge on this part. any of the big kits will do the trick, but you're gonna need something other than slotted stock size rotors and fancy pads to be competive in SU. 500 hp and lots of downforce are totally irrelevant when your brakes go after half a lap.
good luck, looks good otherwise.
fabian
good luck, looks good otherwise.
fabian
Looks like a very good start for a SU car. The Porsches and stock cars are front runners in SU but you should do well if it doesn't overheat or something fail.
That front end has some HUGE brake ducts. Nice!
What transmission, differential, and axels can take that much power?
Slicks come in many sizes might be an alternative to finding DOT-R's. If longevity is a concern buy hard compound slicks.
Keep us updated!
That front end has some HUGE brake ducts. Nice!
What transmission, differential, and axels can take that much power?
Slicks come in many sizes might be an alternative to finding DOT-R's. If longevity is a concern buy hard compound slicks.
Keep us updated!
I know Fabian, the list is long
DFor now stock tranny, and shimmed stock diff(with cooler), Chrome moly axles coming. The front ducts may end up going to the two oil coolers I have in front of the radiator right now, otherwise, they will be for the brakes(may split them internally to both). Still need a BIG wing, still looking. I am in SU to have fun, it is the only class where I can build whatever i want, and race wheel to wheel. Carl
DFor now stock tranny, and shimmed stock diff(with cooler), Chrome moly axles coming. The front ducts may end up going to the two oil coolers I have in front of the radiator right now, otherwise, they will be for the brakes(may split them internally to both). Still need a BIG wing, still looking. I am in SU to have fun, it is the only class where I can build whatever i want, and race wheel to wheel. Carl
The AP racing kits out there are probably your best bet for a serious racing setup- The Wilwood setups out there generally use calipers with alot more flex than AP/Alcon/Brembo units.
You might want to look into adapting a set of 'Big Reds' (Mono block Brembo built Porche 911 Turbo) calipers.
I can't wait to see some pics of the TriPoint kit painted.
You might want to look into adapting a set of 'Big Reds' (Mono block Brembo built Porche 911 Turbo) calipers.
I can't wait to see some pics of the TriPoint kit painted.
Trending Topics
Speaking of widebody kits, what are the different options that we have? What is the max wheel/tire size they will allow and cost of each option?
Mariah's e-prod fenders
Corksport flares
Tripoint's flares
Anything else that I'm missing?
-Matt
Looking for some more rubber for next years OTC
Mariah's e-prod fenders
Corksport flares
Tripoint's flares
Anything else that I'm missing?
-Matt
Looking for some more rubber for next years OTC
Originally posted by Carl Byck
Still need a BIG wing, still looking. I am in SU to have fun, it is the only class where I can build whatever i want, and race wheel to wheel. Carl
Still need a BIG wing, still looking. I am in SU to have fun, it is the only class where I can build whatever i want, and race wheel to wheel. Carl
fabian
Originally posted by DriveFast7
Looks like a very good start for a SU car. The Porsches and stock cars are front runners in SU but you should do well if it doesn't overheat or something fail.
That front end has some HUGE brake ducts. Nice!
What transmission, differential, and axels can take that much power?
Slicks come in many sizes might be an alternative to finding DOT-R's. If longevity is a concern buy hard compound slicks.
Keep us updated!
Looks like a very good start for a SU car. The Porsches and stock cars are front runners in SU but you should do well if it doesn't overheat or something fail.
That front end has some HUGE brake ducts. Nice!
What transmission, differential, and axels can take that much power?
Slicks come in many sizes might be an alternative to finding DOT-R's. If longevity is a concern buy hard compound slicks.
Keep us updated!
Fabian
HeHe LOL....It's so easy to make recomendations when it's not my wallet
Last edited by foko; Oct 13, 2003 at 06:37 PM.
Thanks, but for 1400.00 I'd buy the RE wing wind tunnel designed for the FC. So what size slicks would approximate the tire sizes above, and what compound(s) by brand will approximate the wear I get with V700s?
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,390
Likes: 2
From: San Francisco, CA
Sounds good Carl. When are you planning on having it done? Here is my 2 cents.
Body:
seam welded
lexan glass
fglass doors
Cooiling:
evans @ 0 pressure
Brakes:
bigger
larger master cylinder (929?)
stainless lines of course
Suspension:
needle bearing or at least delrin f/r control arm bushings
aluminum/delrin subframe/diff bushings
adjustable trailing arms (easy toe adjustments) plus theyt eliminate those ball joints
adjustable sublinks (camber each rear wheel individually) plus they eliminate those crappr rubber bushings
Tranny:
dogrings baby (mmmmmm guru <---- soon to be making a dog ring conversion for the RX-8 6 speed which of course has the same bellhousing pattern as ours)
triple plate clutch
cooler
Diff:
kaaz or equvalent diff
diff cooler
Engine:
dry sumped
ported
single turbo
3 rotor
with some luck on my part, we will be trading paint out there in 2005
Body:
seam welded
lexan glass
fglass doors
Cooiling:
evans @ 0 pressure
Brakes:
bigger
larger master cylinder (929?)
stainless lines of course
Suspension:
needle bearing or at least delrin f/r control arm bushings
aluminum/delrin subframe/diff bushings
adjustable trailing arms (easy toe adjustments) plus theyt eliminate those ball joints
adjustable sublinks (camber each rear wheel individually) plus they eliminate those crappr rubber bushings
Tranny:
dogrings baby (mmmmmm guru <---- soon to be making a dog ring conversion for the RX-8 6 speed which of course has the same bellhousing pattern as ours)
triple plate clutch
cooler
Diff:
kaaz or equvalent diff
diff cooler
Engine:
dry sumped
ported
single turbo
3 rotor
with some luck on my part, we will be trading paint out there in 2005
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 639
Likes: 0
From: cali
There is a finished 2nd gen 20B widebody GT car for sale in one of the Racer mags, 35K, and it is awesome. Everything you can think of, done , and ready to race not to mention`30 tires and wheels, a couple of engines, etc. just buy that and be done. As for swapping paint, I hope to keep my paint to myself
. What turbo set up are you going to use? I assume you will not settle for less than 600hp
. What turbo set up are you going to use? I assume you will not settle for less than 600hp
Remember that the splitter is a high attrition part, you're going to be busting that with off track excursions. May want to make that out of something easier to rebuild (say plywood)
Stay away from slotted rotors, they will crack, and will accelerate the wear of your brake pads (think cheese slicer) I agree that bigger brakes are going to be necessary, but I doubt anyone in a loaded street FD is going to outbrake a lightweight FC
You're definitely going to need slicks if you want to beat cars like that monster 911 Turbo
What Shocks and swaybars are you planning to choose?
Sounds likea good plan, when are you going to be ready?
PaulC
Stay away from slotted rotors, they will crack, and will accelerate the wear of your brake pads (think cheese slicer) I agree that bigger brakes are going to be necessary, but I doubt anyone in a loaded street FD is going to outbrake a lightweight FC

You're definitely going to need slicks if you want to beat cars like that monster 911 Turbo

What Shocks and swaybars are you planning to choose?
Sounds likea good plan, when are you going to be ready?
PaulC
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,390
Likes: 2
From: San Francisco, CA
What racer mag is that car in? Not that I'm interested, but wouldn't mind checking it out. I already have WAY to much into mine to justify giving up at this point. Turbo is still up in the air. GT42 maybe. Goal is 650 rwhp on pump gas @ only 14-16 psi. I checked out the pics on teamfc3s.org of your car and it looks great so far. Lotsa fresh air. Did you have to modify the front end to go over the front flares?
There was a guy from fc3s.org at sevenstock building a (not as) wide body fc with a 13bre cosmo for NASA super unlimited. I think he was SoCal though. Should also be a nice setup when all done. Should be a real fun class in the next few years.0 Maybe have fc's finnish 1-2-3
There was a guy from fc3s.org at sevenstock building a (not as) wide body fc with a 13bre cosmo for NASA super unlimited. I think he was SoCal though. Should also be a nice setup when all done. Should be a real fun class in the next few years.0 Maybe have fc's finnish 1-2-3
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 639
Likes: 0
From: cali
Thanks Paul. On the splitter, i expect to bend it, but then be able to lay it flat on cement, and pound it reasonably flat again.
On brakes, I have stock discs ready to install, at ~2400lbs I am not convinced I will need the bigger brakes(although every single racer I talked to IS sure). I will have TONs of ducting, so heat shuld not be an issue , we shall see. At my current power level I'd say the brakes are sufficient, at ~500rwhp, they will not be.
Sway bars are 2 way adjustable fronts, and three way adjustable rears, don't know the brand, but I won't change them til I settle on coilovers. Currently I have Koni yellows, standard valving, with 500lb fr/300lb rr springs. I am looking at JIC/Advanced design/Revalving my konis to double adjustable. I will not make any suspension changes until I see how the car behaves with the new tire/wheel combo.
Problem with slicks is they require a totally different suspension setup according to Tims, so for now I think I'll stick w/DOTs til I learn to drive. I still have alot of work to do, but the car S/B driveable(but not optimum) in ~60 days. The mechanicals are the same as the last time at ran at Sears w/you late last year. Big Turbo will be after suspension, so probably late spring for the 500hp bit. I have the turbo, but I don't want to ball this thing up before I even learn to drive it. Carl
On brakes, I have stock discs ready to install, at ~2400lbs I am not convinced I will need the bigger brakes(although every single racer I talked to IS sure). I will have TONs of ducting, so heat shuld not be an issue , we shall see. At my current power level I'd say the brakes are sufficient, at ~500rwhp, they will not be.
Sway bars are 2 way adjustable fronts, and three way adjustable rears, don't know the brand, but I won't change them til I settle on coilovers. Currently I have Koni yellows, standard valving, with 500lb fr/300lb rr springs. I am looking at JIC/Advanced design/Revalving my konis to double adjustable. I will not make any suspension changes until I see how the car behaves with the new tire/wheel combo.
Problem with slicks is they require a totally different suspension setup according to Tims, so for now I think I'll stick w/DOTs til I learn to drive. I still have alot of work to do, but the car S/B driveable(but not optimum) in ~60 days. The mechanicals are the same as the last time at ran at Sears w/you late last year. Big Turbo will be after suspension, so probably late spring for the 500hp bit. I have the turbo, but I don't want to ball this thing up before I even learn to drive it. Carl
Carl,
The next gen Kumhos will have both sizes you want. Maybe they will be more durable.
Kumho V710 info
Get some brakes!!!!!
The next gen Kumhos will have both sizes you want. Maybe they will be more durable.
Kumho V710 info
Get some brakes!!!!!
NICE job !!. I have SCCA ITE(kinda like NASA SU) RX7. just get it down this MAR ( after 2 years ). If u want to buy big SPOILER!! I recomand u to buy RE GT2 spoiler mabe be u need to got a wider one? the GT2 spoiler on my car is only 162 CM wide. I think RE made a wider one.



