Rx7TyreBurna

iTrader: (1)

So, I got a little extra money to spend. Not a lot, but $250.

I want to get some 99 mustang GT 17x8 wheels, but haven't been able to find any for a good price. Found some a month ago at a wrecking yard, and they wanted $75 for all 4.... i should have jumped on it, but didn't have the money then. LoL.

But, until I get get some wheels, I am looking at what to do in the meantime.

I've got the car completely pulled apart. I figure I'll start on the suspension / body work.

Considering the toe eliminator from mazdatrix.
Is there a huge difference between the one found here:
Polyurethane Bushings

And the delrin one here:
Racing Mounts and Bushings

?
I am guessing the delrin is going to feel more stiff, but $206 vs the $53 is huge.

Then, considering:
86-92 Racing Suspension Parts
the Rear camber adjusting bar. 04-7421-0000. But, is this worth it? Should I be focusing on the rear camber adjustment, or could the money be better used somewhere else, and save this for later?

My end goal is to get the car race ready by next season. So, I have all winter to work on it. Should be getting $700 or so in the next few months to put into it.

My current suspension is, KYB AGX w/ the racing beat springs. Will save eventually for coilovers.

Is there some front end components I should be getting to change toe/camber/caster?

When racing last season, I noticed that the car's rear liked to come out. I don't know if this was the DTSS, or if it was just me.

Trying to use my money wisely. Any information is greatly appreciated! Thanks!

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

personally i would add some negative camber in the front, camber plates is the easy way.

toe eliminators are lower down the list, but probably need to get done eventually.

eage8

iTrader: (9)

the different between the 2 is that one comes with rear control arm bushings and another bushing for the rear triaxial hub.

both of those DTSS eliminators are made of delrin.


that being said, I wouldn't bother with them yet. more front camber is a good thing. or you could just save the $250 so you can afford the wheels when you find them wide wheels and good tires are going to be the best mod you can do.

to fix the snap oversteer problem try removing the rear sway bar.

Rx7TyreBurna

iTrader: (1)

Good to know! Thanks!

Actually, the wheels were $75 for the whole set, not each. Got a place nearby that says $5-$25 per wheel. Hahaha. Found some 18x9 down there, but I was thinking it might be too much? They say it's from a mustang also.... should I grab them? They are asking $80 for the set. I don't know the offset, or what year they came off.

Maybe I'll get my seat next? Sparco Sprint 5 is what I was considering....

eage8

iTrader: (9)

I wouldn't got with 18s. tires tend to be much more expensive.

9" wide wheels are good if you have the front camber and the correct offset to fit them...

I wouldn't get a seat.

camber plates, wheels, tires (get wheels first), coilover sleeves (like ground controls) or a front sway bar would all be better investments.

Rx7TyreBurna

iTrader: (1)

Eage8,
I have see the camber plates on ebay for $75. But, they say that they only work with coilover systems.

Are there camber plates that work with the KYB AGX I have and the RB springs?

I can wait on the seat.

Interior, I need a few different things. I want a quick detach wheel, and looking for a good manual steering rack, I think the S5 had the best ratio.

I have a megasquirt system w/ wiring. Will be using my ported N/A 6 port to start with for power. I hate the lack of torque though. Hoping to get a good turbo setup later that will allow for some medium / high power.

Also.... want to get a different rear end. 4.88 or something.

wlfpkrcn

What class/classes are you building your car for? I saw in your other thread you want 245 tires on 17" rims. If you are on a budget the 17" tires are way more than 15" . We run 225 on 15x7 mustang wheels for NASA PTD and Enduros. I looked into moving up but the costs of tires is a budget killer.

When you get coilovers all the way around you will need to address rear camber. Camber plates with the coilovers.

What do you have for a front bar?

Rx7TyreBurna

iTrader: (1)

Pretty much everything is stock except the bushings throughout the suspension have been replace with energy suspension poly. Then, I have KYB AGX and the RB spring. Everything else hasn't changed.

I was considering a different front bar.

I also have in my budget some hoosier autox tires? I believe the A6 tires. It's one of the 'big budget' items for my build.

Currently, not building for a class. Building for fun. I'll see what class I fall into. I know it's not a really good method....

Engine will pretty much be a ported 6-port running megasquirt. For now. I'd like a P-port motor, but can't afford it atm.

Goal will be to get a good base setup, learn to drive a little better, then start shooting for a class. I drove 3 years autocross with the car using the KYB AGX and RB springs. Sports C I think is what I raced in.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

next step is to get some camber in the front.

Rx7TyreBurna

iTrader: (1)

j9fd3s, what is the best / most efficient method to get some front camber?

Any suggestions on camber plates? I know usually the ebay stuff is crap. Any, are there actually any that will work with the KYB AGX?

eage8

iTrader: (9)

I'd wait to get camber plates until I got coilovers or ground controls (they come with most coilovers and 2.5" springs like ground controls make fitment easier....)

the easiest way to get some camber until then is with some camber bolts. these are cam-type bolts that install in your strut to knuckle bolts and tilt the knuckle increasing camber. these won't increase your tire fitment ability though like camber plates do, so you'll be limited to 17x8s

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

i'd do the GC stuff too, and i'd get the 2.5" springs and threaded collars. it is the next step

Rx7TyreBurna

iTrader: (1)

For the FC, are the GCs good for the track?

I see that they are ~$500. They ask for spring rate.... which, would be dependent on the weight of my car right?

Or, is there a good spring rate I should go with? Car is going to be stripped. Gas tank gone, replaced with 5 gallon fuel cell (Still to be determined....)

Going as light as I can. Hood is going to be replaced with a fiberglass one, or CF..... probably FG to start. Glass is being removed, and Lexan put in it's place. Though, I've heard people putting something similar to Lexan.

I don't know what weight I will be at, but hoping pretty light.

eage8

iTrader: (9)

springs aren't the important part... the dampers are

GCs are more than fine for the track, you can put whatever rate you want on them and tune them with spring rates. I have them on my corolla, and have a very similar setup on my rx7 and have tracked both.

I'd probably recommend going with the standard mazdaspeed setup for you and go with 400 lbs/in Front and 275 lbs/in rear.

088

iTrader: (9)

At 2800 lbs race weight, I'm currently running 7 kg/mm front, 5kg/mm rear. Seems a bit soft, so I will be trying 8 kg/mm & 6 kg/mm. (In lbs/in, I'm going from 392/280 --> 448 / 336.) Most ITS guys seem to be running springs near those rates. If that feels better, I'll post an update.

Not sure what your fuel consumption is like, but 5 gallons would barely last me a 25 minute session, with maybe a quart of gas remaining....... Under enduro conditions, I seem to get just over 6 mpg. Driving styles do differ, however. My co-driver could easily go about 35 minutes on those same 5 gallons. Also, my car seems to lose some rear grip when it gets low on fuel. I'm not saying your experiences will be the same. Just some possible things to consider.....

wlfpkrcn

I really think you need to read rules and figure out what you are building for and what sanctioning body you will be running with. If your plan is to road race with SCCA your ported 6 port is EP. I have not read rules for a while but I believe your 17" wheels would not be EP legal. I guess you would need to be looking at STU or GT. I agree 5 gallons is not enough, especially with a ported engine.

With NASA you could run TT/PT with a dyno re-class. You need to be really smart about where you spend points otherwise you will modify yourself into ST pending your weight and horsepower and your starting base class

I don't usually Autocross but when I do it is someone else's car that they have classed.

I encourage you to build what you want. I just think you need to study rules before buying stuff. The last thing you want is to build yourself into a class you have no chance at being competitive in.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

just find a stock aluminum hood, a fiberglass hood will probably be heavier than the aluminum

Rx7TyreBurna

iTrader: (1)

Great information guys!

I might end up keeping the stock gas tank. Was thinking I was saving some weight / moving weight towards the center. I do plan on moving the batter towards the center of the car.

I will look at getting an aluminum hood. I've watched, and some people want way too much money for it.