Hehehe..your car that is.

Just curious about where everyone jacks the car from, and where you place your floorjacks. The side sills (stock jack points) in a 2nd Gen seem to be pretty flimsy.

 

Control arm pivot points, or at least I used to.
Then I bought an FB, front subframe and rear pumpkin

 

normally i like to light a few candles.. pop in a softcore lesbian ****. grab my ky and just make love to myself

 

I cut a 1.5 inch hole through my door sills just slightly forward of the center of the car. I put a tube through the holes and welded them to my roll cage and the sill tin. The tube sticks out just below the bottom of my sill. I jack on those. Before that I jacked it on the diff and the front cross member. I put the jack posts in the week after my car slid off the the jack in front and distroyed my radiator.

 

Although It kinda comes off as a rediculous post, Im actually having a little bit of a problem with my car right now. Ive been lifting it, and supporting it via the stock jacking points, on that little sill under the rocker. This piece has however gotten really weak latelly, and is threatening to cave inward. I would like to figure out something permanent, possibly tied into my cage that would allow me to securelly lift it. Ive tried adding some steel stock welded to 1/4"plates to distribude the force bolted to the floor, but that isnt really that secure either.

Im Kicking myself in the *** for not designing jack points into the cage originally!

Any suggestions or sollutions?

 

Have you looked at the inboard frame rails? This is where I jack the FC from, although the floor jack just makes it because the car is lowered to around 5" at the sills.

-bill

 

I have thought about those, but my car is too low, and my jack to high to get in there for them.

 

drive onto 2x4's so you can fit a jack underneath.jack from the crossmember and make sure the perch/cup/arm is wide enough so that it doesn't slip.

 

i beat my meat like it owes me money

 

under diff at rear.

cross member at front.

don't even bother with side jacking points.

 

I tried jacking my car on the inner frame rails and found that they are just as weak as the outer jack points. They started crushing just like the outer sills.
I put my jack posts in after I installed the cage. The left side of my car had the door bars tied to the door sil at about the place I wanted the jack post so I just off set the post from the plate on the sill so I could weld about 1/3 of the post to the sill plate. Then I welded the bottom of the post to the thin sheet metal on the bottom of the car. The right side didn't have the door bars tied to the door sill in the middle so I ran the jack post up to the door bar. I had to put a dog leg in that one and then I added a 1/8 inch plate around the post on top of the door sill to tie the whole mess together.

If you jack on the front crossmember, be very careful that the jack is exactly on the crossmember and that it doesn't slide as you jack the car up or let it down... Like my previous post says, you can take out your radiator if the jack slips off the front of the crossmember. I have a fuel cell mounted low in the spare tire well in the back so when I put my jack in to the diff, the handle hits the cell and I can only get about 6 inches of stroke on the jack handle... and if I let the car down too fast, the cell crashed onto the jack and smashes the bottom of the can in.

 

Ditto.

 

Since this is the "race section" and there a few IT racers on here, I will point out this exact method is not legal for IT. A little creativity and it can be done in a similar fashion, discussion is over on the IT forums.

Crossmember and diff doesn't work for me, car sits too low with a splitter in front and fuel cell in rear. Rockers are just over 5" off the ground already.

 

Originally Posted by jimeby
I cut a 1.5 inch hole through my door sills just slightly forward of the center of the car. I put a tube through the holes and welded them to my roll cage and the sill tin. The tube sticks out just below the bottom of my sill. I jack on those.

It ^ is also not legal on a SCA Production car.

Front cross member, rear differental, drive on 2 x 6's if required.

 

Yeah, my car runs in IT-s, so legality is an issue.

 

with two hands, im working with a monster.

 

I have a foot-long block of 2x2' (actually 1.5 x 1.5") wood that I lock in position right behind the pinch weld, and I jack from that.

For extented time on stands, I made two longer ones that extend the length of the pinch welds so I can jack and support w/out flubbing up the welds.

 

I jack it up off either underneath the front downtube pad, or the rear subframe. I usually have to drive the car up onto a ramp to get both front wheels or both rear wheels in the air, in which case I jack from the pumpkin or the front subframe.

yeah definitely don't jack it up off the sill panel area, that is very weak.

PaulC

 

I used one of these for a while. Worked good.

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT