Show Pics of your cages please!
#501
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Viking War Hammer
What's a decent bead roller for doing tin work ? I'm just talking about something for personal use.
Take it completely apart and re-size and re fit the collars and it will giver you some decent service. Add a steering wheel to the turning hub and it will make it easier to work by your self.
bead roller
#502
*** Bless The USA
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Saint Louis / Illinois
Posts: 7,139
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by cagedruss
Harbor freight has a bead roller that is 18" I think with 7 sets of rollers, on sale around a $159 and less on sale!
Take it completely apart and re-size and re fit the collars and it will giver you some decent service. Add a steering wheel to the turning hub and it will make it easier to work by your self.
bead roller
Take it completely apart and re-size and re fit the collars and it will giver you some decent service. Add a steering wheel to the turning hub and it will make it easier to work by your self.
bead roller
#503
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Throat is 18" deep, you can reach in about 17" to the middle of a project if needed. Line everything up on the metal first and loosen up the rollers and mover the piece around to see if you can roll the pattern.
My roller is 18" deep also and hasn't been an issue.
Caution, do not drop the HF rollers on the concrete floor, they will dent and will imprint the dent into your work. I would suggest after inspecting them is to have them hardened for longer life.
My roller is 18" deep also and hasn't been an issue.
Caution, do not drop the HF rollers on the concrete floor, they will dent and will imprint the dent into your work. I would suggest after inspecting them is to have them hardened for longer life.
#504
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Missouri
Posts: 350
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Eric... I've got a HF model you can rent... say 10 a week? I know where you keep your car so I'm not worried about loosing it Wait... TPR doesn't have one? Sounds like you need to bend Steves ear a little!
The extinguisher location isn't the greatest, but I was working w/i the owners parameters as well as making it accessable should he actually need it (the 10 lber seems a little overkill). I would have rather mounted it on the floor in front of the pass seat, but it wasn't my car....
The extinguisher location isn't the greatest, but I was working w/i the owners parameters as well as making it accessable should he actually need it (the 10 lber seems a little overkill). I would have rather mounted it on the floor in front of the pass seat, but it wasn't my car....
#509
I Love Cookies!
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: E. Montpelier, VT
Posts: 223
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by PDViper77
Well I was going to post some pictures of my cage here but it looks like Scott already beat me to it. haha
Drew
#510
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by gravytraindg
im curious as to how the plate for your swing out bars was located if you could get a shot of that......the front lower where it mounts to the floor.
Drew
Drew
Here is the picture from the manufacturer. The kits comes with the pre-bent piece plus the mounting hardware for one door. I usually like to make my own piece instead of buying this kit. Plate is welded to rocker/floor and then the tube is attached to the plate. Really simple!
Oh yea! Woo Hoo, finally got this thread stickied!!!!
#511
I Love Cookies!
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: E. Montpelier, VT
Posts: 223
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
allright...nice,is that chrome!!!
so as far as rules go, in the rx7 is the best place to weld this to the floor, or make a box between the rocker and floor. im trying to get ideas but i don't want to build junk. thanks
drew
so as far as rules go, in the rx7 is the best place to weld this to the floor, or make a box between the rocker and floor. im trying to get ideas but i don't want to build junk. thanks
drew
#512
I Love Cookies!
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: E. Montpelier, VT
Posts: 223
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
do you sell your swing-outs or do you have a link to that manufacturer that makes them? i'd rather get them from you if you have a couple available.
Drew
Drew
#513
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Try to tie it in to the rocker and floor. More rocker the better. The parts are not chrome, machined steel. The parts are the best for this application and are legal. Takes a little practice to position the hinge correctly to get the door bar to open out and down so it falls away from the seat. If you take your time you will be pleased with the out come!
No, I buy them the same a s you do. Alston has a huge buy in plus I like to do things my own way instead of using kits!
No, I buy them the same a s you do. Alston has a huge buy in plus I like to do things my own way instead of using kits!
#520
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Just finished a 4130 roll cage in a civic but since it is a civic I am not going to post any pics. I doubt I will even take any pics.
Working a some other stuff, will post pics soon!
Working a some other stuff, will post pics soon!
#523
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Here is a few pics of the Civic.
Main hoop attached to floor in similar fashion to a SCCA cage.
I used the SW swings out, not to be harsh but I do bot like them, They were here so I used them up. Prefere to use the ChassisWorks kits even though they cost twice as much!
Main hoop attached to floor in similar fashion to a SCCA cage.
I used the SW swings out, not to be harsh but I do bot like them, They were here so I used them up. Prefere to use the ChassisWorks kits even though they cost twice as much!
#524
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Here is the new project this week, it is a 1100 CC Kawi powered Pro Truck Challenge truck form the South. Customer bought it and is going to run Road Race with it. Last owner ran NASA with it a couple of years back.
The only problem one of the first owners of it cheat the cage and made a few alterations to save weight. They cut the main hoop right at the function of the door bars and replaced the top half with .065". The halo and all support tube were changed also. Would have been OK I guess for the tracks this chassis was designed for. Plus it would have ran against only similar chassis. These weigh around 1200lbs.
I have to fix it and try to get it to pass tech. I will be working with a local tech here to make sure it will be safe and pass. NASA never caught the cheat. Moral of the story, when buying a used race car, make sure all tubes are legal.
Here is the cut and it is well hidden. Excuse the mess on the tables, been pretty hectic here!
Here is the truck running on a road race course back east somewhere
The only problem one of the first owners of it cheat the cage and made a few alterations to save weight. They cut the main hoop right at the function of the door bars and replaced the top half with .065". The halo and all support tube were changed also. Would have been OK I guess for the tracks this chassis was designed for. Plus it would have ran against only similar chassis. These weigh around 1200lbs.
I have to fix it and try to get it to pass tech. I will be working with a local tech here to make sure it will be safe and pass. NASA never caught the cheat. Moral of the story, when buying a used race car, make sure all tubes are legal.
Here is the cut and it is well hidden. Excuse the mess on the tables, been pretty hectic here!
Here is the truck running on a road race course back east somewhere
#525
My never ending project Street Car
Fully pinned
Street Port
T-76(for now maybe Larger)
M-4 Motec
Custom V Mount
Custom Bar and Plate Radiator
Electric W/P
2.0 way Kaaz Diff
And too many other goodies to list
Fully pinned
Street Port
T-76(for now maybe Larger)
M-4 Motec
Custom V Mount
Custom Bar and Plate Radiator
Electric W/P
2.0 way Kaaz Diff
And too many other goodies to list