cagedruss

Actually Porsche is a SCCA SPM car, anything goes. I think you are talking about the Spec Miata. It is the only car that shows the "X". If you look in the GCR, you will see the rule that says 6 mounting points and 2 optional to front bulkhead, total of 8 pts. Any amount of tubes, as long it is the same diamater and wall thickness as main cage requirements are legal if attached to any mounting plate or cage structure. Both bars that make up the "X" are attached to the down tubes/Plates.

I have never seen anywhere in the GCR that does not allow an "X" member in the main cage structure. Car has been Annual teched and competed. I have anothe spec Miata that is similar that has ran in SCCA and Pro Miata.

Falcoms

Hey, I am looking for a nice basic bolt-in roll bar (maybe cage, if the price is right). Anyone here make them for the FC, or know of anyone that does. I am looking for it to be made with .095 DOM tubing, so that it's legal for SCCA, as well as safe for me (the more important point). I know I've seen one website that makes them, I think it's I/O port or something like that, but I haven't had a chance to search. One of the big reasons that I want to go with a bolt in over a weld-in is that I just don't have the time to gut the interior out, mask everything off, weld it, then paint it. Also, a bolt in works just fine from what I've seen at the track (neon did some nice aerobatics after breaking the bead on a tire going sideways in the grass).

Well, thanks in advance!

Speed Raycer

Here's how NOT to have a cage built... definitely do your homework on your cage builder guys.

http://www.izzyscustomcages.com/imag...taGallery.html

Falcoms... PM me... I'm in St. Louis.

wrankin

Great discussion!

Thanks for the pics. For the under educated amonst us, do you think that you could offer some commentary on the pictures? I see the pretty crappy welds on the rear X, but I'm probably missing most of the "important" things.

I am in the process of putting together an FC track car (potentially ITS) and while I have a builder who comes highly recommended, I would like to at least know some good questions to ask him (so I don't sound completely stupid ;-).

I have read the GCR and have a pretty reasonable understanding of whats "legal".

Thanks,

-bill

37FC3S

Falcoms, my post previously in this thread has pictures of a AutoPower 4pt rollbar for a FC I bought from IO Port Racing. It is a bolt in rollbar and has an option for to convert it to a cage but I think the cage option has to be welded.

Blake

Just found this thread...I am the "Q" he is referring to. These are the only shots I have, Russ. I don't have any of yours.

The car:


The cage:




BTW, Russ, as you've probably figured out, I'm not coming down to the shop until after the weekend (Monday, probably). Too busy finishing up the magazine before I send it off to the printer Monday morning.

speedturn

iTrader: (1)

Izzy, I really got a laugh from the white Miata cage tubes that looped up over the front shocks - that was ridiculous.

NasaPro7

Jesus christ. Did that thing have a logbook?

M.

cagedruss

Most of the welds are suspect, bend in the middle of the main hoop would require the whole cage to uprade to the next higher class/weight for cage material. If the car is required to have a mininum 1.5"x.120", it would have to go 1.75"x.120. That is a high price and weight to pay for the extra bend.

I have seen lots of cars with that extra bend that has past tech, but I wouldn't want to take a chance on getting protested by a competitor.

Tha hack job on the tubes going through the firewall bulkhead is also really bad. Something else for the Techs to draw their attention to. The rules are specific on the quality of welds, but again, some seem to pass tech.

I believe in intersecting all of the tubes connected to the main hoop, keeps the force during the impact traveling through all the tubes in series. It was how I was taught by a cage builder when I started, makes sense to me. It is also aesthetically pleasing to the eye. If you look at the Euro Cages and Rally cages being built, you will see the same thing.

I like seeing the doors bars away from the driver as far as possible to allow for crush in case of side impacts. Some say it is better to have the flat and straight for frontal rigidity, but I have seen door bars bend in after a serious crash. I wouldn't want to be trapped or have my leg broken by my door bars. keep the bends outward if all possible also.

If you have room for an "X" and "NASCAR" style bars on the driver's side do it. Gives you the best protection for frontal and side impacts.

Keep the cage basic, make sure you can get out of both sides in an emergency, you never know when your driver's door in pinned by an obstacle. Think it all out ahead of time, look at other cars in the Pro ranks that are well funded. See what there are doing.

If you have any other questions, feel free to contact me!

rfreeman27

iTrader: (5)

NHRA legal to 8.50

edit...my pics are too big and it is too late to resize them all. I will do it tomorrow, got a very trick cage here.

Scrub

iTrader: (25)

Okay i have a question about cages. Is it possible to keep the interior with an 8 point cage like this one? I know it's probably not possible to keep the door panels with the side bars, but what about the bins, roof liner dash (semi hacked) and pretty much everything else?

ex: this picture minus the lower X bar that covers the bin area...



actually is it possible to keep the door panels with a side bar?

EProdRx7

Here are a few pics of an Rx8 I did recently.

EProdRx7

Pics of my EP FC. BTW this chassis is for sale $2500

EProdRx7

A Spec Miata I did...

Scrub

iTrader: (25)

Why would you put a cage in the back seat and leave the seats in? The seats are totally functionless.