Safe redline for 4 port bridgeport?
12-11-04, 08:56 PM
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Safe redline for 4 port bridgeport?
I have a 4 port bridgeport with stock rotors, racing beat/holley intake setup, racing beat streetport exhaust, and fuel. What rpm can the stock rotors of an engine that old handle? What is my intake/exhaust system good for?
12-16-04, 01:22 PM
#2
redline is determined by:
peak oil pressure (rotormotor wants 10psi per 1000rpms and above 7000rpms you want the 17mm oil pump, above 10,500 you want dry sump)
apex seal material (iron = 8500, carbon or ceramic = 10000+)
rotating assembly balanced
weight of rotors
rotating assembly clearanced
faith the motor was put together right
Your motor will hit peak hp below 9000rpms, exactly where is determined by bridge size, exhaust, etc............
peak oil pressure (rotormotor wants 10psi per 1000rpms and above 7000rpms you want the 17mm oil pump, above 10,500 you want dry sump)
apex seal material (iron = 8500, carbon or ceramic = 10000+)
rotating assembly balanced
weight of rotors
rotating assembly clearanced
faith the motor was put together right
Your motor will hit peak hp below 9000rpms, exactly where is determined by bridge size, exhaust, etc............
Last edited by DriveFast7; 12-16-04 at 01:34 PM.
12-18-04, 02:20 AM
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Another important point...................
Bridgeporting a rotary changes the "port timing" on the motor, and shifts the power significantly up the rev range. Anyone who is going to the effort and expense of bridgeporting a motor should DEFINITELY bite the bullet and spring for the reliability parts. Yes, hardened stationary gears seem pretty expensive but when you are over-revving your bridgeport to find where the power lives, and it shears the teeth off of your stock stationary gears you lose pretty much everything in the motor and have to buy it all again! Having your rotating assembly balanced by someone who really knows what they are doing is a good idea also (Mazdatrix is one that does this) and stepping up to the appropriate oiling and cooling mods only makes sense.
Bridgeporting a rotary changes the "port timing" on the motor, and shifts the power significantly up the rev range. Anyone who is going to the effort and expense of bridgeporting a motor should DEFINITELY bite the bullet and spring for the reliability parts. Yes, hardened stationary gears seem pretty expensive but when you are over-revving your bridgeport to find where the power lives, and it shears the teeth off of your stock stationary gears you lose pretty much everything in the motor and have to buy it all again! Having your rotating assembly balanced by someone who really knows what they are doing is a good idea also (Mazdatrix is one that does this) and stepping up to the appropriate oiling and cooling mods only makes sense.
12-19-04, 08:29 PM
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Your stationary gears, stock main bearings, your stock rotor gears, and stock rotor bearings are going to limit you.
The old pros say those things are going to limit you below 8400 rpm.
Your bridge port should be pulling really strong at 8400 rpm, it will be really hard to resist not revving it higher, and it won't take too many over revs to find your weak spots.
The old pros say those things are going to limit you below 8400 rpm.
Your bridge port should be pulling really strong at 8400 rpm, it will be really hard to resist not revving it higher, and it won't take too many over revs to find your weak spots.
Last edited by speedturn; 12-19-04 at 08:31 PM.
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