I know Mazdaspeed has a guide to breaking in the race bearings, I cant find the email I had that procedure in.

Anyone with a Mazdaspeed account care to share the info?

Thanks
Joe

 

Straight from the website

TIME & MILEAGE RECOMMENDATIONS
DYNO HOURS MILEAGE
RPM NEW BEARINGS OLD BEARINGS NEW BEARINGS OLD BEARINGS
1500 0.5 - - -
2000 0.5 0.5 - -
2500 0.5 - - -
3000 0.5 - - -
4000 1.0 0.5 - -
5000 1.0 0.5 60 -
6000 1.5 0.5 60 25
6500 1.5 0.5 - -
7000 - - 60 25
8000 - - 60 25
8500 - - 60 25
TOTAL 7.0 2.5 300 100

 

I tried to put spaces in there to keep the columns right but it didn't like them.

 

Those break-in hours that Mazdaspeed are writing about are referring to using new rotor bearings on a rebuild versus using the same old rotor bearings in the rotor.

It has nothing to do with stock bearings versus competition (larger clearance) bearings.

 

Oh thanks!

I actually found the pdf file I had in my emails of the Mazdaspeed procedure.

speedturn is right though, it reall doesn't mention anything about the larger race bearings.....ah well, I'll just break it in according to the procedure.

Here it is incase anyone needs it

 

usually larger clearance bearings beam they are smaller correct?

The clearance is the void between the 2 surfaces that the bearing is preventing from coing in contact with each other.

meaning the Race bearing are smaller than the standard version (or at least thinner)

extra clearance reqires higher oil pressure to fill the additional void, so either modifications to the oil pressure regulator (slightly smashing it in a bearing press or vice to compress the internal spring) or break in at slightly higher RPM's

Just thinking out loud

 

I broke my three window race bearings in by running the car on a track. First, I fired it up and let it idle for almost an hour. I did two hours with the RPM under 3500, followed by another two hours pulling up to 5000 rpm. A few days later I again put two hours on it, this time pulling up to 6000 rpm (partial throttle only). I then went an hour up to 7000 rpm. After that I started to do short full throttle pulls for an hour, lifting out at 7000 rpm. Then, I ran out of time and showed up at the Indy support race and assumed the engine was broken in and ran the hell out of it. All worked just fine.

The basics: Take it slow and let the engine get up to temp. Do nice smooth partial throttle pulls, keeping the max rpm down. We always try for at least 8 hours on the motor before we pull full throttle (or boost) Change the oil when you finish and you should be good to go.

Keep in mind, this is what worked for me. Your mileage may vary.
-Trent