Im thinking about taking classes at Mid-Ohio in the spring, maybe getting my license so I can go to open track events and such. My question is, what should I do to my car to prepare it for road course use? I figure the stock brake calipers are more than up for it, just need some better pads, fluid, and maybe braided ss lines. I already have my cooling system upgraded with a Koyo and a Greddy 2-core fmic, and am going to fab some ducting for them. Also, is a cage required? What kind would you reccomend? The biggest question I have is in regards to tuning. I think a safe street tune(will also have water injection an additional precaution) would be fine as long as my coolant issues are taken care of, but a friend of mine says that I need a "road course tune". He claims it requires many hours of tuning, and that it should much richer than a typical street tune.

Help a newb out.

 

Since this is your first time at the track I'd say TURN THE BOOST DOWN! Start off at very low boost and work your way up as you get more experianced. You don't want to have to try and controll a drift when your trying to learn the course and are still getting a feel for driving fast. I've seen at least one person crash because they had too much power for their eperiance level and it got them into trouble. Don't worry about going fast right away, and don't worry if you never reach the cars maximum ability even after many schools and track days. There's no shame in being passed by a slower car with a better driver. The greatest limiting factor here is the driver (as it is for almost anybody save the best drivers in the world). Work on being smooth and the speed will come all on it's own.

You'll need good tires (you don't need Hi-Po tires, but they're better able to handle the heat withought going greasy and less likely to chunk). Full tread depth all season's are not reccomended (although I went on new Pirelli P3000's and they were fine). The stock braking system should be fine for now. Get good brake pads. How aggressive the pads need to be depends on the circuit. I like my HP+'s, but for a tight track they may not be sufficient. For the extra power you'll have I'd say get some real racing pads (such as Hawk Blacks), not just track day pads (HP+). Just don't use the racing pads on the street too much, the dust will corrode your wheels if you don't keep them clean, and they'll be noisy. Get good brake fluid. Ford DOT 3 is a very good brake fluid in that it's dirt cheap, available nearly everywhere and has a high dry boiling point of 550 degrees F. You'll need to make sure it's fresh before you head to the track as it absorbs moisture quickly and then the boiling point goes down, so do a complete system flush the weekend before you go. You don't need SS lines to go to the track.

As for tuning (a subject that I have no experiance in), I'd imagine that a good street tune will be fine as long as your egt's and afr's stay within spec and the oil and coolant temps are ok.

Keep an eye on your temp guage. With a big FMIC you're blocking airflow to the rad and oil cooler, so have a look at the guage whenever it's safe.

You'll have to check with the organising body to see if a cage or roll bar is required, it's different everywhere you go (although most places will only require a cage or roll bar in a convertable).

Have fun, the FC is a great track car, it's handling is predictable and forgiving, and once you become a better driver you sould be able to embarass alot of people in much more expensive cars.

 

Thanks, you guys answered a few of my questions as well. I don't currently own an FC, but I want to buy one soon, and begin racing sometime next year. There is a series called Sevens only, it is only for gen 1 rx7's but many guys drive there 7's to the track with there wheels and tires in the back of the car and some tools and race, then ride back home.

 

Delslow,

Depends on what you're doing. Just open track stuff, depending on the club, doesn't require a license or even a school.

- Things to do before an Open Track (i.e. not wheel to wheel, bang it together with a jackass in a miata type racing)

Check the following, replace if suspect or just for piece of mind
- Brake Master Cylinder
- Brake lines, F/R
- Calipers, F/R
- Brake Pads, F/R
- Radiator Hoses
- Heater Hoses
- Belts
- Thermostat
- Radiator cap
- Oil Cooler lines
- Tires

Flush and replace coolant and brake system, if hasn't been done in a while. Brakes especially. Replace with high temp fluid such as Motul 5.1 or Ford DOT3 HD
Change Oil

Do you need a cage? For Open Track, it's not a bad idea, but not required. However, expect that in some organizations (NASA for example), tech guys will expect your car to conform to all race car safety standards if you have a cage. Most OT guys don't stress about it, I personally haven't seen any accidents where an OT car needed a cage that wasn't a convertible.

Have a good time.

 

KRS1, why buy an FC if you want to run Pro 7????

There's a guy here selling a Pro7, ready to go, look him up.

PaulC

 

DelSlow: PM me if you want to talk about this. I am in central Ohio and would be happy to help you out.

 

Paul, I thought that wheel to wheel 50 guys on the track at once was your favorite
See ya in the Spring, Carl

 

Oh it is

Just kinda torqued about getting nailed in the door by a SM for absolutely no freaking reason. Guy knew I was there, I was clearly alongside, and he didn't need to move down to make the turn. Stupid move.

Besides, when you get out there in Super Unlimited, you'll be out in Group A with us I'll try not to hold you up as you go whizzin' past.

PaulC

 

Sounds like an autocross with moving 2500lb pylons, scary