skunks

holy crap the klingon death grips are installed

just kidding, here are some pictures of the brake duct cooler i made finnaly mounted on bigislands7's fd
and yes that is carbonfiber

as for fitment, david has told me that there was a very small fitment issue but i think i can work this out very easily by drilling the holds a bit bigger. on another note, these ducts were lighter then a stock fd's brake sheilds

enjoy



Note: this was the first proto type and to tell you the truth, i did not even know if they would be close to fitting. lucky they do fit fairly well and all others will be made with full double layer CF as fitment does not seem to be that much of a problem.

Umrswimr

Nice work! I don't know if this is the case for RX7's, but on Corvettes, they point the brake ducts at the hub instead of the actual rotor. The brake rotor sinks a HUGE amount of heat into the hub which causes the bearing to fail. By pointing the duct at the hub, they prevent the bearning from overheating while simultaneously cooling the rotor (it can now sink more heat to the hub)... Just a thought. Either way, you have a really nice looking duct/bracket there. Let us know how the carbon fiber handles the enormous heat.

skunks

did you have any pics of what you mean by at the hub?

in anycase, thats very intresting. i never knew the hubs would get that hot. thanks for the info

skunks

did you have any pics of what you mean by at the hub?

in anycase, thats very intresting. i never knew the hubs would get that hot. thanks for the info

BigIslandSevens

iTrader: (4)

I hear what your sayingUmrswimr. The duct actually blows out air right onto the area where the cooling vains start. As well as get some air into the hub area. Probably 25% of it to the hub anyways,and 75% to the cooling vains and rotor surface combined.( more to the vains) Just a guess. They only drop a little of the air onto the rotor face directly which could be bad for cracking the rotor. Again We'll see. But for a first attempt I am very pleased with Skunk's work. On a side note does the extra cooling to the hubs on the vette's have anything to do with trying to prolong the life of the wheel bearings? I didn't read your post very carefully now did I?!!! Sorry.It's still early for me today.

0110-M-P

iTrader: (10)

Looks great. If you are planning on selling these I will probably buy a set once the fitment issues are resolved. Keep us updated.

Umrswimr

Well, here's all I could find on the forum since the search there is completely and totally useless:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=538741



LG Motorsports made a plate that mounts to the hub and it repaces the dust shield (very similar to your cover), only the "nozzle" points directly at the center of the rotor and the whole thing is made out of metal...

Hopefully one of these guys will chime in.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=745986

tims

you ideally want the air to enter the center of the rotor so the cool air can then be forced throught the internal vanes and cool the rotor from the inside out so to speak. forcing the air onto the face of the rotor limits the surface area the air comes in contact with. it is not to cool the hub(which does happen as a by product), but to increase the surface area the cool air touches and using centrifugal force to "suck" the air through the vanes. that is a nice part but I might relocate the inlet hole to the center area of the rotor and cut back the material near the face. most of these devices look like a small disc(size of rotor opening) with an oval to round tube on the back. I have built many out of sheet metal or aluminum. some fine tuning and you should have a nice part.

BigIslandSevens

iTrader: (4)

At least 75% of the air being forced into the duct IS directed into the vanes. I am going to try and make a little directional flap to put more air into the center. There is really no room in the center of the front knuckle/hub area to put the hole. Where the hole is located does not bind in full lock both directions. As you said some fine tuning will be necessary but i will try it like this first and keep track of changes and temp differences.( if any)

christaylor

How? Through the holes in the rotor?

You'll definitely want to do everything you can to get the air directed at the vanes themselves, not the side of the rotor. By blowing on the side of the rotor, it unevenly cools and does more harm than if you didn't have the duct at all. Even with the drilled rotors, not very much air gets into the vanes, if any at all.

BigIslandSevens

iTrader: (4)

OK Here it is slow......75% of the air IS directed AT the cooling vanes. The remander of the air goes into the hub area. There is hardly any/IF any air hitting the rotor face at all.( I'm talking like less than a 1/8 inch of the face gets air) I realize that cooling just the rotor face would cause premature failure ,That's why Skunks and I spent time figuring out Where,How Big of a hole to put in the duct. If you look at the backside of your brake rotor you will see that the cooling vanes are very accesible for the air coming in. This is operating on the exact same principle as the stock backing plates on the FD.( Just much more directly) I hope this helps solve the confusion. Dave P.S. I hope that didn't sound rude. No harm intended.

skunks

well another thing you gotta remember is that your wheel area is not a vaccum. if be willing to bet that the front of the rotor is getting a bit of air depending on what type of rims you have. even with the stock setup, you will be getting at least a bit of air in there.


P.S. good explaination on the last post david