Parts/cost needed to get a fb racer going
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Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,204
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From: Cincinnati, Oh
Parts/cost needed to get a fb racer going
I am basically interested in getting a grocery list of parts im goign to need to get so I can start club racing. I was thinking of going with a 1st generation rx-7. I would like some recomendations on what engine to use, where to obtain it, and rough estimates on cost. I am going to follow SCCA rules while building this car so... any help would be appriciated.
I'm assuming ITA or IT7. If you're talking Pro 7, that's a different ball game.
Rule Book - Don't pass go. Don't collect 200$. Gotta have this before you start. Not knowing the rules is not an option.
Roll Cage - 6-8 point, if you're a average sized guy, you'll want a custom welded cage, if not, a bolt in cage might work, but for various other benefits, a weldin is a better option. 300-2000 depending on how far you want to go.
Seat Back brace - Can be as cheap as 10 bucks if you can do your own fab work.
Race Seat - 150-300 bucks, or more. Kirkey Intermediate works great for me, but there are more comfortable options out there.
Harnesses - 5 point, 150 or so.
Window Net - 60-80 bucks.
Removeable steering wheel setup, 40-60 bucks IIRC. Steering wheel can be an inexpensive wheel, or an expensive Momo, just how much you want to put into it.
Race Brake Pads - 300 or so. I run Carbotech Panther Plus, others like Hawk Blue.
New Master Cylinder - 150. The car's pretty old, you're betting your life on this? replace it.
Rebuilt Calipers - Kits run 25 bucks or so. Change the seals, you're betting your life on those too.
New Rubber or SS brake hose, up to 150 or so. Same reason. You can use rubber, but most use stainless steel braided.
Header - 100-150 bucks depending on deals you can find. Not Required.
Exhaust - 200 bucks from my exhaust shop. Not required.
Suspension Components - New tie rod ends, new ball joints are must do items in my book. Bushings are a good idea, I use Delrin, but Poly will work too.
Swaybars/Shocks/Springs - Talk to the 1G racers here for options, no idea what is good for 1Gs.
Electrical Cut Off switch - 40 bucks
Fire extinguisher - mine cost me 200 bucks IIRC for a Halon handheld 5lb setup.
Engine? Junkyard. Get out there and learn for a while. Then look at the engine.
Or forget all this crap and buy a built race car.
Trust me, it's a lot cheaper to buy a built one.
PaulC
Rule Book - Don't pass go. Don't collect 200$. Gotta have this before you start. Not knowing the rules is not an option.
Roll Cage - 6-8 point, if you're a average sized guy, you'll want a custom welded cage, if not, a bolt in cage might work, but for various other benefits, a weldin is a better option. 300-2000 depending on how far you want to go.
Seat Back brace - Can be as cheap as 10 bucks if you can do your own fab work.
Race Seat - 150-300 bucks, or more. Kirkey Intermediate works great for me, but there are more comfortable options out there.
Harnesses - 5 point, 150 or so.
Window Net - 60-80 bucks.
Removeable steering wheel setup, 40-60 bucks IIRC. Steering wheel can be an inexpensive wheel, or an expensive Momo, just how much you want to put into it.
Race Brake Pads - 300 or so. I run Carbotech Panther Plus, others like Hawk Blue.
New Master Cylinder - 150. The car's pretty old, you're betting your life on this? replace it.
Rebuilt Calipers - Kits run 25 bucks or so. Change the seals, you're betting your life on those too.
New Rubber or SS brake hose, up to 150 or so. Same reason. You can use rubber, but most use stainless steel braided.
Header - 100-150 bucks depending on deals you can find. Not Required.
Exhaust - 200 bucks from my exhaust shop. Not required.
Suspension Components - New tie rod ends, new ball joints are must do items in my book. Bushings are a good idea, I use Delrin, but Poly will work too.
Swaybars/Shocks/Springs - Talk to the 1G racers here for options, no idea what is good for 1Gs.
Electrical Cut Off switch - 40 bucks
Fire extinguisher - mine cost me 200 bucks IIRC for a Halon handheld 5lb setup.
Engine? Junkyard. Get out there and learn for a while. Then look at the engine.
Or forget all this crap and buy a built race car.
Trust me, it's a lot cheaper to buy a built one.
PaulC
The cost of parts and labor involved in building the car your self, is greater than buying a car. I would recomend finding a car localy that is already sorted out and pretty much ready to go.
Have you headed out to the track and asked around? There's bound to be a few RX-7 drivers who know of guys trying to get out of their cars.. Consider looking at the local region's website (you can find it through www.scca.org), they may have a bulletin board or classifieds that you can respond to.
Check out my site on the construction of my 2G car. Granted, I'm time poor, so it took a lot longer than it could have, but a lot of the time I was waiting on cash to buy the parts for my next round of modifications.
www.lcaf.com
PaulC
Check out my site on the construction of my 2G car. Granted, I'm time poor, so it took a lot longer than it could have, but a lot of the time I was waiting on cash to buy the parts for my next round of modifications.
www.lcaf.com
PaulC
Silkworm hit the nail on the head... buy a built car, especially if this is your first racecar. Buy it at the track as well, right after it comes in from a race (and not on the hook). That way you're buying a proven car, not someones project that never made it to the track.
If you decide to build one yourself, start with a very good running street car, you'll be way ahead than dragging home someones backyard eyesore.
If you do decide to build your own, give us a call if you need a cage built. We're not that far from you.
If you decide to build one yourself, start with a very good running street car, you'll be way ahead than dragging home someones backyard eyesore.
If you do decide to build your own, give us a call if you need a cage built. We're not that far from you.
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