overheating on the race track
#1
Racing Mechanic
Thread Starter
overheating on the race track
I have an FD#S , the problem is that it get overheating only on the race track , I mean not that hot , but it get hotter . So I' was wondering what is the problem , meady I should buy another radiator or another front bumber I dunno.
My car is street ported and running at the standar 10psi boost.
I don't want to change the front bumper cause i love the standar look , but meaby I should cahnge it , cause my car have a lots of mod and meaby that the reason of the overheating problem.
Please let me know if you have had the same problem, and if you find the solution
My car is street ported and running at the standar 10psi boost.
I don't want to change the front bumper cause i love the standar look , but meaby I should cahnge it , cause my car have a lots of mod and meaby that the reason of the overheating problem.
Please let me know if you have had the same problem, and if you find the solution
#3
Mr. Links
iTrader: (1)
There are two parts to cooling:
1. Oil
2. Water
For #1, it's a good idea to get an oil temp gauge so you can see what is happening there. You may need some upgrades in the oil cooling department depending on what your temps are on the track.
For #2:
a) Larger radiator (Fluidyne or PWR would be good choices)
b) Seal the sides of the radiator to make sure air doesn't go around the radiator instead of through it
c) Lower temp thermostat (or a drilled stock thermostat)
d) Run a higher percentage of water (or switch to Evans)
c) open up the nose for more air with something like the N-tech Shark Mod
Good luck.
1. Oil
2. Water
For #1, it's a good idea to get an oil temp gauge so you can see what is happening there. You may need some upgrades in the oil cooling department depending on what your temps are on the track.
For #2:
a) Larger radiator (Fluidyne or PWR would be good choices)
b) Seal the sides of the radiator to make sure air doesn't go around the radiator instead of through it
c) Lower temp thermostat (or a drilled stock thermostat)
d) Run a higher percentage of water (or switch to Evans)
c) open up the nose for more air with something like the N-tech Shark Mod
Good luck.
#4
Racing Mechanic
Thread Starter
Thanks very much for your help I really apreciate it.
Sorry for my ignorance but If I have a standar thermostar , how big I have to do the hole to it.
Sorry for my ignorance but If I have a standar thermostar , how big I have to do the hole to it.
#6
Lives on the Forum
Originally Posted by rexset
the problem is that it get overheating only on the race track , I mean not that hot , but it get hotter .
#7
Racing Mechanic
Thread Starter
A litle uppeer than the midle of the gauge , just betwin the midle and the upper part of it. like 3/4 I'm still have the original water temp gauge , but I think that I should buy another one.
It the second time in my life that that happens to me in that car , the first time was with the other engine , steet racing in curved road on the mountains racing with a M3 E36 of a friend of mine. In that ocation was a litle bit diferent but everytime that that happens to me I get scare and I try to get the temperature down going slowly and don't pushing the car.
I notice that the temperature was hi cause I have presetting in the AEM EMS to get the car a lot of rich if the temperature get more than 110°C so I thing that the temperature get to that. I know that I dint brake the engine cause I'm still using it without loosing coolant , but I get so F... scare about it. meby I should to do the same configuration but when it get upper than 100°C, It really works.
It the second time in my life that that happens to me in that car , the first time was with the other engine , steet racing in curved road on the mountains racing with a M3 E36 of a friend of mine. In that ocation was a litle bit diferent but everytime that that happens to me I get scare and I try to get the temperature down going slowly and don't pushing the car.
I notice that the temperature was hi cause I have presetting in the AEM EMS to get the car a lot of rich if the temperature get more than 110°C so I thing that the temperature get to that. I know that I dint brake the engine cause I'm still using it without loosing coolant , but I get so F... scare about it. meby I should to do the same configuration but when it get upper than 100°C, It really works.
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#9
Racing Mechanic
Thread Starter
Yes I know I should buy one , and I will.
I know there is a brand that make some digital gauges , I think that meaby that's the best option to be more accurate
I know there is a brand that make some digital gauges , I think that meaby that's the best option to be more accurate
#10
Lives on the Forum
Originally Posted by rexset
I know there is a brand that make some digital gauges , I think that meaby that's the best option to be more accurate
#12
Old Rotary Dog
I have used the VDO vision gauge with the matched sender. Autometers also seem to be popular. An electrical gauge (where wires connect the sensor to the actual gauge) is easier to install than a mechinical one.
Look around http://www.egauges.com/ for some decent offerings.
Good luck,
-bill
Look around http://www.egauges.com/ for some decent offerings.
Good luck,
-bill
#13
10 lb. boost, 5lb. bag
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by DamonB
Any gauge is only as accurate as the sender. A digital readout vs. a needle means nothing for accuracy. Same can be said of stepper motor driven gauges as well.
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...asp?RecId=4754
Another nice feature of this gauge is it has a peak hold function and an alert function. you can set a temperature level (one for each readout) and it will flash a warning light when you hit it.
I will say that I have had a couple of sender failures, which were annoying.
#15
Racing Mechanic
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Gene
True, but the digital ones are a lot easier to read at a glance. When I had the autometer mechanical it was much slower to read because of the small numbers and hash marks. I have this dual oil/water temp gauge in my FC:
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...asp?RecId=4754
Another nice feature of this gauge is it has a peak hold function and an alert function. you can set a temperature level (one for each readout) and it will flash a warning light when you hit it.
I will say that I have had a couple of sender failures, which were annoying.
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...asp?RecId=4754
Another nice feature of this gauge is it has a peak hold function and an alert function. you can set a temperature level (one for each readout) and it will flash a warning light when you hit it.
I will say that I have had a couple of sender failures, which were annoying.
Like this ones:
http://www.egauges.com/vdo_grou.asp?Series=Cyber_Red
#16
Lives on the Forum
Originally Posted by Gene
True, but the digital ones are a lot easier to read at a glance.
With a simple analog needle a quick glance from the corner of your eye is all it takes for viewing and it's simple to recall that as long as the needle is at x o'clock or less everything is fine, and your brain can much more quickly and easily tell if the trend of the reading on that gauge is rising, falling or steady without having to think about numbers. Unless the digital gauges have alarms to bring the driver's attention to out of spec parameters (for instance a Stack or Pi digital dash) I don't care for them.
#17
Old Rotary Dog
I have to agree with DamonB here. The military (Air Force, IIRC) did some research into this and determined that properly set up analog (or simulated analog) displays were easier to get information from at a glance. Not as big a deal for just a single gauge or two, but real important in a fighter cockpit.
One thing you can do with analog gauges is to rotate them so that the needles point to 12-oclock for a "normal" operating point. That way it is fairly simple to glance at them and tell if something is off and needs more mental attention.
Perhaps more important than type of gauge is getting them up near your normal field of vision. My current set of gauges are mounted way too low in the console and I have to move my head way down just to see them (effectively taking my eyes off the road for a period of time). I need to remount them up a the level of the dash cluster.
-b
One thing you can do with analog gauges is to rotate them so that the needles point to 12-oclock for a "normal" operating point. That way it is fairly simple to glance at them and tell if something is off and needs more mental attention.
Perhaps more important than type of gauge is getting them up near your normal field of vision. My current set of gauges are mounted way too low in the console and I have to move my head way down just to see them (effectively taking my eyes off the road for a period of time). I need to remount them up a the level of the dash cluster.
-b
#19
Rotary Enthusiast
Originally Posted by rexset
..... my car have a lots of mod and meaby that the reason of the overheating problem......
#20
10 lb. boost, 5lb. bag
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by DamonB
I disagree. I don't like digital gauges because you have to actually focus your eyes on them, then read the number and then wait while your brain decides if that number is ok or not. You look at the gauge again two minutes later and read another number and your brain has to decide if this new number is better or worse.
With a simple analog needle a quick glance from the corner of your eye is all it takes for viewing and it's simple to recall that as long as the needle is at x o'clock or less everything is fine, and your brain can much more quickly and easily tell if the trend of the reading on that gauge is rising, falling or steady without having to think about numbers. Unless the digital gauges have alarms to bring the driver's attention to out of spec parameters (for instance a Stack or Pi digital dash) I don't care for them.
With a simple analog needle a quick glance from the corner of your eye is all it takes for viewing and it's simple to recall that as long as the needle is at x o'clock or less everything is fine, and your brain can much more quickly and easily tell if the trend of the reading on that gauge is rising, falling or steady without having to think about numbers. Unless the digital gauges have alarms to bring the driver's attention to out of spec parameters (for instance a Stack or Pi digital dash) I don't care for them.
#21
Racing Mechanic
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by KevinK2
It would help to give us a list of all your mods. (example, some front mount IC's can cause o'heating at the track).
#24
Old Rotary Dog
Go back and read Majik's post earlier in the thread - he covers the important bits. Making sure that all the air that comes in the front of the nose goes through the radiator and doesn't spill around it - that is critical.
The cooling on stock FDs is marginal at best. Once you start upping the HP, you start producing more heat, Not upgrading the radiator to a larger, better flowing unit is pretty much a recipe for disaster at high power levels. Are you running dual oil coolers? That's also very important to get the temps down.
Good luck,
-b
The cooling on stock FDs is marginal at best. Once you start upping the HP, you start producing more heat, Not upgrading the radiator to a larger, better flowing unit is pretty much a recipe for disaster at high power levels. Are you running dual oil coolers? That's also very important to get the temps down.
Good luck,
-b
#25
Shut up and hold on.
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: California
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Heres a little trick I use at the track to keep temps down. SOunds silly but it's good for 15 degrees. Run your heater full blast through the defroster. Seriously, it helps. Since you should be running with the windows down, you wont even notice the heat in the car.
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