OK, good luck finishing the car!

Riz.

 

If no one minds i will just blog what im doing, here.

The RS is back at my shop and i'm finishing it.

Purchased a used NZ short 3 rotor PP last week.
I won't mention who i brought it off because i don't publisise private names.
l do mention company names or names of people in industry as i think they are the property of the public domain. (well thats the way i look at it...) If i say something about YOU let me know and we can negotiate a suitable edit.

Saw it running in an FD, looked good, i now have it at my place. It's going in this weekend.
I have a tripple plate tilton and flywheel already so should go straight in.
I also got the subframe which is a stock FD one with a couple of bosses welded to it for the 3 rotor mounts.

It's not a "20B" it is made from 13b parts.
The parts are made / modified here in NZ by precision engineering, (very nice to talk to, a straight up guy)
I visited them again before purchasing the motor and all the parts are current and replaceable.
I will call it a 20S "S" for "short" lets see if it catches on

The engine was put together by Brian Grey in Tauranga. Met him, was busy but a good bloke. He has a 4 rotor FD GT car. Nice.

I am using a Link extreme computer because thats what was running it before and it was good . I also got the tune with the motor. Link is also made in NZ (waive the flag )
I don't know them but when i rang they were helpfull to very helpfull.
They do a few dash options via CAN.
I'd like to add a motec dash when i can afford it.

It's actually much better than i expected, but i havn't looked at their products for a long time.

I'm in the process of purchaseing some coil on plug with ignitors so i don't have leads and have simplier wireing.
More about this latter.

I also saw a great way to do a pedal box with out a pedal box!
The previous owner of the 20S did a great job.
The FD obviously has a pedal box... just add two master cylinders and a cable bias to the stock pedal!
I'm working on this now and i'll give you the brake caliper, rotor size and master cylinder specs latter and more importantly the pedal mods.
I'm only running Willwood gear. I like it as long as you stress releive the disks they last long enough.

I wasn't going to post a vid of the motor running because it wasn't mine at the time but now it is i guess there is no harm...

I'll put a link to it once i put it up.

I deloomed the car. What a weight in wire!!!!

I have an OBR power control module that is CAN based so that will run the car and the link will run the engine.

http://www.obr.uk.com/PCM.htm

So things are moveing along nicely

 

Been a bit busy putting a front mount in my R1.

I changed a few things on the engine.
Fitted the light flywheel and tripple plate tilton

Designed and CNCed a bracked to Mount the alternator low on the left side of the motor.
Have to get a new belt.

 

Alternator bracket

 

Changed the front cover from FC to FD.
In didn't fit the sump so i routed the bottom off and welded some alloy plate on.
I didn't want the ugly dizzy and now it has FD pickups off the crank.

 

bottom of front cover.

I used a hand router set a 3mm deep with a carbide alloy cutter.
Then cut out a pair of 3mm plates the same dims as the FC front cover and welded them on.
Had to drill and tap 4 of the sump bolt holes as their location is different FC --- FD


Turned out pretty good.

 

The ignitor/coil on plug arrived from Okada projects a week or so ago.
I'm mounting them this week, then the engine can go in.
No more leads, coils or igntor to mount!!

 

20S PP engine

 

Modified the oil filter and got a big remote filter.
The remote filter has a pressure regulator built in so i made it return to the old filter bipass/ regulator.
The Remote filter has seperate lines going directly to the from, middle and rear bearings.
I'm going to plumb in my accusump as well. That will go in to the remote filter.

Fitted a RB rear swaybar and a Tripoint front bar.
Took the quantum shocks out and put in soome Apexi N1

 

I looked at various pedal boxes and decided to just modify the stock brake pedal.

Design photo attached.

DIY brake pedal box.
You need,
2 x 3/4 inch willwood master cylinders
1 x willwood adjustable brake balance bar
Remote cable
4 bolts and 4 nyloc nuts.

3 laser cut plates
2 pieces of laser cut tube
(I can supply these.)

1 x 1mm cut off disk and an angle grinder.
1 x steel mig welder
1 x alloy tig welder

Cut excess parts of old pedal box
Weld on new bits
Cut the mastercylinder hole in the wirewall a bit bigger so the new master cyliner boots fit through.
Mount new bits in car weld firewall plate over the hole.
All done.

Interested? glen@rx7.net.nz

Glen

 

how much were they?

 

US$1400 for 6

 

The brake master cylinders device is really interesting.

 

Glen

Good luck making it to the 24hr race next year, would you please keep a note of me as i'd be interested in a pay/drive on this.

I've got a few years rotary race experience under my belt and a few hundred Nurburgring laps.

As an added bonus, i'm a tuner as well which may help with inevitable last minute gremlins.

I run M800 on my race car.

I also have a few contacts in Nurburg should you need accommodation / workshop arrangements prior to the race.

My email max AT fduk.org

Max

 

I have drawn up the coil on plug holder for the 20S.
Will CNC it this week and fit it on the weekend.

Here are some renders.
It is held onto the engine with 6 dzus clips.

 

I have finished the pedal box too. I will take some photos of it in the car.
Turned out pretty good.
Any one got pics of a LHD brake pedal?
I wounder if it's different to a RHD one??

 

I've put it back in the car.
Here are some photos. They are a bit hard to see... I'll take some better ones latter.
I changee to the smaller master cylinders to give more room.

I just have to weld that plate to the firewall. Then plumb it up.

 

What a hugely nice project!

Keep it up, I'm jealous!

 

Here's another thing I just finished.
It's a casting for a bigger lower intake manifold for my 13B REW FD.

I added a couple of bosses for a heat shield. It has 4 injector bosses
This was a sample and i didn't need the two extra injector bosses so i cut them off and welded up the holes.
It takes a stock secondary injector rail and injectors with no modification. or you could run 4 injectors but youd need to make a fuel rail or i guess if enough people wanted them i could cast some stock looking 4 injector rails to match this manifold??

I tried it on a stock motor with twin turbos and it fits you just need to bend one of the hard oil feed lines a little bit.

I got this one HPCed. I like HPC but it is VERY expensive here in NZ. They charged me NZ$370 for coat it with the extreme black. Bit of a rip off I recon?

It would look pretty good polished…

 

I'm making a carbon radiator shroud for the 3 rotor FD.
I made the one off mould from polystyrene. Cover it with Sellotape, 2 layers of carbon over it, then peel ply, then vacuum bag it with a rubbish bag for a few hours, poor petrol in it to remove the polystyrene and bobs your uncle! A carbon part!

I've just finished the mould, will carbon it up next.

 

I forgot to mention that it is a direct replacement for the factory item.
i.e. the top manifold is in the stock location so you don't have to change any intercooler piping.

 

Hi Glen,

What is the cost of your manifolds, are the runners equal lenght, ie eliminate the perceived lean out problems associated with the rear rotor housing with the factory LIM.
I to have built the pedal box about two years ago, the japanese were way ahead of us, I found info & design 3-4yrs ago on a jap website. saves alot of money doing the conversion, & work great.

Cheers.

 

I haven't worked out a price yet as i will include polishing and i havn't got any quotes back yet.
I'll let you know...

 

They are as close to equal length as i could get them. I use a Power FC so I tune with two widebands and even the mix between the rotors.

 

Amazing build and innovation!! Any updates?