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Need more rear toe out. Fc with parts list

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Old 07-08-17, 01:29 PM
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Question Need more rear toe out. Fc with parts list

My fc has way too much toe in. Was just messing with it an hour ago to try to toe it out.
Long story short it's almost 1" toe in, and want to zero it. Camber is zero at the rear.

What I have:
Part shop max (Pbm) spherical control arm bushings
Pbm subframe risers
Mazdatrix main camber link
Battle version lateral toe links
Pbm individual camber links
Adjustable sway bar links
White line eccentric bushing for the top of the hub

Don't want to go in and just start playing with all the links and make adjustments I don't need to. Any help is appreciated. Didn't know if I should adjust camber on the main link, then adjust it accordingly on the top hub bushing in order to change toe range I can adjust with the main eccentric on the front control arms.

Will try again tomorrow. I didn't remove sway bar links and am wondering if they were binding not allowing for the eccentric to be adjusted completely.

Does lengthening the lateral toe links toe in or toe out the rear

Last edited by DR_Knight; 07-08-17 at 01:34 PM.
Old 07-10-17, 10:12 AM
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You can see the wheel move as you adjust the lateral links. It's kind of an iterative process of adjusting toe and adjusting camber until you get them to where you want. I believe lengthening the lateral links will add toe out/decrease toe in.

What is your intended purpose for the car? I ask because I'm not aware of any situations on RWD cars where you want 0 toe or toe out in the rear. Usually you run 1/16" to 3/16" toe in depending on your other modifications to help improve rear traction. If you don't have a lot of power, you usually run closer to 1/16" to aid turn in characteristics as you don't have enough power to overcome the tire grip so you don't need the extra traction at corner exit. This is all very subjective and up to how you like your car to feel, however.

Be careful how you are measuring this because unless you are on an alignment rack it is difficult to make sure they are symmetrical from right to left. I usually use the fishing line or string method just to double check that they are at least close to symmetrical.

edit: Just looked at it again and I think I had it backwards. Lengthening the links adds toe in. Regardless, you can tell pretty quickly once you start adjusting it

Last edited by Lavitzlegend; 07-10-17 at 10:34 AM.
Old 07-10-17, 10:24 AM
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You've messed with the geometry by installing the white line camber bolts and PBM subframe risers.

Adjust the toe to where you want it with the adjustable toe links. That is all you need to do. You'll probably have to readjust the camber after that though.
Old 07-11-17, 02:07 PM
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Drift build. About to reattempt the alignment right now. Using toe plates that lay against the wheel and string to measure
Old 07-11-17, 02:08 PM
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Strings going side to side or front to rear?
Old 07-11-17, 08:47 PM
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Did string going side to side and using a straight edge to make sure it's at a 90 degree angle. Yup just used the lateral toe links. Sorry for the confusion, thought I had them maxed toed in but had enough adjustment to make them what I want.




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