The FD does actually have a duct to cool the stock battery tray, but i guess it doesn't work too well if you've seen 5 explode at the track.

 

The FD battery duct is part of the IC duct and is frequently removed when upgrading the IC (or simply losing the battery cover parts). It doesn't look very functional anyway. I run a PC680.

-Max

 

I have reservations about the PC680 or those small batteries. I've spun the car on the track a couple of times. Two I can remember was pretty bad and I stalled teh car. I remember it was pretty hard to get the engine refired after it was on the boil for several laps. I had to keep on cranking and cranking and it finally caught. I wonder if the PC680 battery will have enough juice to do that. Last thing you need is a tow back to teh pits because you spun and couldn't get her fired up again.

 

Batcap.
http://www.batcap.net/Model800.html

 

Third vote for hawker/odessey 13 lb battery. The same battery is sold under several brands. I've been running the same one for 2 years now on my camaro. It is daily driven for short distances in city driving too.

Probably going to put one in my rx7 when the battery in there now dies.

 

Why not also upgrade the alternator if your worry about power consumption with the huge car stereo? Anyone know what the lightest dry cell battery is with decent CCA?

 

I'm using the Optima 51R battery as well. I do have a stereo/sub, but I don't usually listen to it loud or anything. I've left the interior lights on over night (from the door not being shut) and I still didn't have any problem starting up in the morning. I finally did drain it by letting the car sit for a couple months with something on.

33 pounds, as stated before, and I relocated it to the passenger side bin area. I cut the bin bottom out, and fabbed a aluminum angle and flat bar hard mount for it to the bottom of the car. Works great and it's 100% concealed so that you can still shut the bin door. All while having super easy access from inside to the circuit breakers and terminals if I need to power something. I do have pics of the install if anyone is interested.

Lower weight battery, deep cycle, moved the weight to a better location on the car, made room for the IC I'm running, etc etc

 

Why the hell would you care about a light battery with 150 lbs of stereo in the car.

 

That is what I was wondering?
That is the reason I don't have a stereo in my FC. I figure my fat *** is enough!
The Braille battery is the lightest CAR BATTERY you will find. Period.

 

Glad I'm not the only fat *** in an Rex.............LOL

 

One more vote for the Odyssey PC680. It's sold under the Enersys brand name now: http://www.enersysreservepower.com/ody_b.asp?brandID=5


I've had my PC680 since May, and haven't had any problems starting up. It's seen plenty of short trips, and the only time it didn't start up was the time I left the keys in the ignition (in the ON position) for about 4 hours. The only thing you might be concerned about is cold weather. My battery hasn't seen anything below 40F.

-s-

 

Because not all custom stereos weigh that much. If I'm going to add weigh to my car, it's going to be as little as possible and still accomplish my goals. If anything, my audio upgrade may weigh 40lbs. A light weight battery with a higher amp alternator would offset the extra weight of my sound system. Besides what you yall consider fat ***?

 

Any stereo that sounds worth putting in there is going to weigh a lot.

 

Not only that but you're competing with a rotary, so listen to the sweet sounds of perpetual; motion and go a tenth faster....

I consider my 234lb to be fat assed..........lol

 

Well I just realized why you guys keep replying about my audio system. I completely forgot this was the race car tech section Duh!

 

Double post

 

okay would the odyssey battery be okay for like a weekend only driver with occasional street racing and occasional drag race? reason i am asking is i want to know if i can drive the car to work on a nice day and still be able to start it at the end of the day. the one you guys are refering to only has 220 cca... is that enough to crank a 20+ year old engine?

 

I've let my car sit for 5-7 days between starts, and the Odyssey hasn't failed. Again I'll warn you that I'm in sunny SoCal and my car is a few years newer than yours, so you might not be able to crank an engine for 15 seconds when it's 30*F outside. Recently, I've made lots of short trips (5-10mins drive time) in the morning when it's about 50F, and the battery has always been fine. It will probably depend on the rest of your electrical system: the alternator needs to charge the battery, and the alarm and stereo need to NOT drain it when the car's not running.

-s-

 

Well, I had my stereo box built so that I could take it out for the track. I want a lightweight battery because I can take the stereo out, but not the battery.

I searched for the Total Power battery mentioned earlier in the thread, but to no avail. Does anyone have a link? I'm looking for a dry/gel-cell and sealed lightweight and little size battery with more than 400 CCA to relocate to the cabin.

 

For my drag FD project ( R-85 turbo , Tec3r ...etc ) im planning to use :
Stinger SP800
Iinternal resistance 4.2 mohm
5 sec cranking 925A
Short ciscuit current 2400A
weight 24.9
cca rating 380
Ah rating 30Ah

 

Odessy PC680 in my 7 and just bought one for REPU. I only drive the 7 a few times a year and it needs minimal time on the charger beforehand. <1hr.

 

I put the Odyssey PC545 (11lb) in the FC daily driver/autocross car, a litte more than $130 from Porterfield Enterprises in Costa Mesa.

The Total Power was overkill for an autocross car, perfect for track use --> restart hot.

 

Is there any sense in even running one of these batteries in the cabin? With the size and weight savings it seems as though they would be used under the hood.

 

More room for an larger intercooler or rad. Or maybe mount an ignition box? Any number of things that would be more beneficial to have closer to the engine.

 

I use the pc680 as well in my fd.