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Lifespan of a Tracked 13 BREW

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Old 10-31-19, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s
it is, there are a LOT of factors that matter, the driver, the track, length of the races, etc etc
True! Also factors are oil and water (type and temps), air temps, induction pressure. But in general....

Originally Posted by j9fd3s
during the 40 minute race, something like half the field broke.
From experience, about how many 40 minute races could someone expect to get out of a forced inducted 13B engine before a rebuild is required? 15 (10 hrs), 30 (20 hrs), 50 (33 hrs), more, less?

If the range is 10 hrs - 60 hrs depending on _________, then those factors do significantly affect lifespan and no generalization can be made.

Nice vids on this post BTW.

Last edited by TomU; 10-31-19 at 11:50 AM.
Old 10-31-19, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by TomU
. I'd rather give a point by to a V-8 than drive one
At least you are prepared
Old 10-31-19, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by billyboy

Over here at least, anyone serious would laugh at the prospect of an LS, except for production classes....racing iron blocks were made for a reason they say.

Rules here are 1.8 times displacement for rotary plus a further 1.7 for turbo, except the one where the 20Bs are deemed eligible - and they end up with a 1.75 multiplier to keep under a 6 litre maximum displacement rule.

Truthfully, I'd be surprised if many good v8s would lose out to any rotary out of corners or off the start line, short of burning it all up in wheelspin, no matter the turbo.
The LS is all aluminium, but taking into account that a turbo 13B is basically classed as a sub 4L engine the classing might make it hard to compete with sub 6.0 NA V8?
Old 10-31-19, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by TomU
True! Also factors are oil and water (type and temps), air temps, induction pressure. But in general....



From experience, about how many 40 minute races could someone expect to get out of a forced inducted 13B engine before a rebuild is required? 15 (10 hrs), 30 (20 hrs), 50 (33 hrs), more, less?

If the range is 10 hrs - 60 hrs depending on _________, then those factors do significantly affect lifespan and no generalization can be made.

Nice vids on this post BTW.

For the people I work with 30, roughly once a year if they're racing monthly with 2 practices, 2 qualifyings, and 2 races a weekend (one or two months off, and those qualifyings are 15 minutes, practices are 5-10 on hard throttle). Generally soft seals are the only thing replaced, then side seal springs, then side seals, then bearings. I use ceramics so the apex seals and other hard parts last for years.
Old 10-31-19, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by TomU
True! Also factors are oil and water (type and temps), air temps, induction pressure. But in general....
if the temps aren't right anything will blow up, overheating is overheating



From experience, about how many 40 minute races could someone expect to get out of a forced inducted 13B engine before a rebuild is required? 15 (10 hrs), 30 (20 hrs), 50 (33 hrs), more, less?

If the range is 10 hrs - 60 hrs depending on _________, then those factors do significantly affect lifespan and no generalization can be made.

Nice vids on this post BTW.
i'm not sure, but its not linear. the Honda will do 15 minute races nearly forever. 6 weekends a year, is 12 days, with four 15 minute sessions a day, its like 12 hours a year. and it will do that for 2-3 years, which is like 36 hours. but if you go and run that at once, like the 25, its dead halfway through, and we're limping it along. only 12 hours.

BTW a whole season of drag racing is like 15 minutes of run time, so its radically different.

and BTW 2, one of those 25's we had nothing but engine trouble and the guy next to us was running an NA FC, and that thing ran the whole time with no real trouble... (Mazda used to run the Rx8's too, and except for the one that blew an oil cooler line, they just ran like Seiko's the whole time)
Old 10-31-19, 07:22 PM
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My experiences are similar to Wouter's. I've gotten 2 years of abusive racing out of a 13BREW single turbo setup. That's 7 to 8 race weekends a season with each weekend being two 30-35 minute races, two 20 minute qualifying sessions, and one 20 minute practice session. So that's about 30 hours plus a couple of test days in there and some dyno time. My 13BREWs have been mild street ported with OEM apex seals and a mix of OEM bearings and race bearings. My rev limiter is set to 8000 RPM.

With the 12A bridgeport in my GT3 car, I usually have it refreshed after 10 races. This mainly is to replace the side seals and do a general once over. This motor runs ceramic apex seals and I set the rev limiter to 9500-9600 RPM; max power is at 9200 RPM. I have run one of these motors to 10,000 RPM regularly over the course of a long weekend of racing; things just wear out more quickly at these RPMs.

Guy
Old 10-31-19, 08:47 PM
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To be honest just rebuild before the engine starts telling you it needs a rebuild and you're good. If you wait until you've popped something the rotary isn't all that forgiving IMHO.
Old 11-01-19, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by dguy
To be honest just rebuild before the engine starts telling you it needs a rebuild and you're good. If you wait until you've popped something the rotary isn't all that forgiving IMHO.
neither is the honda! we had one drop a valve, and it ruined the head, but it also split the block...

we had another one just detonate itself to death (the tuner advanced the timing, and it didn't add power, so he just left it = boom), it also split the block, head was savable, but barely.

and then the Miata engines are ridiculous, its like $7000 for a rebuilt one now.
Old 11-01-19, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by dguy
To be honest just rebuild before the engine starts telling you it needs a rebuild and you're good. If you wait until you've popped something the rotary isn't all that forgiving IMHO.
You really need two. One in your car, and one being rebuilt

Originally Posted by j9fd3s
and then the Miata engines are ridiculous, its like $7000 for a rebuilt one now.
WHAT

That's more the the FMV for the entire car
Old 11-01-19, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by TomU
That's more the the FMV for the entire car
true! but if you want a spec miata that does 103rwhp vs 102 rwhp, it costs $$$.

in an odd quirk the Skyaktiv program was a remodel of the factory, and they do not have any Miata engine parts like heads and blocks anymore. the quirk is that the rotary engine factory didn't get touched, so they can still make new REW's...
Old 11-01-19, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by TomU
You really need two. One in your car, and one being rebuilt

While I always say having an A and a B engine is a good bet this isn't COMPLETELY true. The rebuilds I'm speaking of take half a day and are more of a health check/reclearance of a few parts and a soft seal replacement. It takes far longer to remove and reinstall on a street/track car. On a real race car they take about the same amount of time (the building vs removal and reinstalling that is).
Old 11-05-19, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by LargeOrangeFont
The LS is all aluminium, but taking into account that a turbo 13B is basically classed as a sub 4L engine the classing might make it hard to compete with sub 6.0 NA V8?
Here a turbo 13b comes in at 4003cc. In longer distance races, with fuel consumption the major factor, the usual competition will be the 3 to 4 litre cars- and mostly Porches here. With a few notable exceptions, lots of those drivers couldn't drive a greasy pole up a pig's **** through corners, but they'll murder you on exit with power down and torque, especially when the car is heavy with ~100kg of fuel.

The serious 6 litre cars usually run in a sprint format series, with 20 minute races. Just the other day, this popped up
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i18U...cCAcshVUH_qG5s

don't know the guy or the competition, which is a State championship, but he seems to be running OK with the chevs at this level. The National championship for this class is dominated by the V8s, last guy who tried with a turbo bridgeport 20b and was a handy steerer, did run several seasons, but not a huge amount of success, budget usually being a much greater determining factor at that level.
Old 11-11-19, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s

and then the Miata engines are ridiculous, its like $7000 for a rebuilt one now.
To be fair, that is for a pro built motor by a top flight builder for a customer looking to be at the pointy end of the pack nationally.
I built my own SM engine for use in regional races for under $2k including machining costs. Dyno'ed 118 rwhp. I don't have the patience, time or money to race nationally. Regional motors are still a bit expensive but can be had for $3-5k depending on options.

Last edited by gracer7-rx7; 02-06-20 at 01:46 PM.
Old 01-27-20, 01:54 AM
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i have about 40 track hrs on my FD, about 30k miles total so far, still going strong. making 300whp, mostly 20 min sessions, and a few 2hr sessions. interesting to note just about all of my piston race friends have gone through at least one engine in the same time. i also race two other piston cars, a subaru and a dsm, not the best examples, but both have not lasted more than 25 track hrs without spinning a bearing
Old 01-29-20, 01:14 PM
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Reading some recent threads on seals, think that's my issue. Aftermarket seals warping under stress of repeated sessions of WOT for 30 mins. Confirmation is pending tear down
Old 01-29-20, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by TomU
Reading some recent threads on seals, think that's my issue. Aftermarket seals warping under stress of repeated sessions of WOT for 30 mins. Confirmation is pending tear down
Which ones are you running?
Old 01-29-20, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Molotovman
Which ones are you running?
RXParts. Don't want to put out anything negative until the engine gets broken down
Old 01-29-20, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by TomU
RXParts. Don't want to put out anything negative until the engine gets broken down
I have RXParts too. I passed 10,000 miles on my rebuild today, I don’t drive it lightly but its only seen limited track use.
Old 01-31-20, 10:03 AM
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If you are warping seals you have a heat issue. I would look into your egts and intake temps. Most aftermarket seals like RX Parts are designed to warp before breaking and sparing the engine internals. Stock seals will break with that kind of abuse. That being said, we have logged over 10k miles and 2 dozen track events at the 500hp level a decade ago with RX Parts seals.
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Old 02-19-20, 01:04 PM
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Just heard from another one of my customers who frequently tracks his fd. Setup consists of a ported motor with RX Parts seals, EFR 8374, HKS Vmount, and Power FC. He has about 20k miles on the motor, with about 10k of that being track miles. He frequently runs up to 30lbs of boost on 98ron and meth injection. I have found that running too hot/too lean will warp any of the aftermarket hardened seals. However, abusing a stock seal similarly will result in breakage.
Old 10-05-20, 03:28 PM
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I have seen several pro turbo cars drift/ road coarse holding strong compression after 3 years of abuse. Inadequate cooling/ ducting and too small of an exhaust housing on your turbo is often culprit. Seems like a rebuild to check tolerances every 30-40,000 is not a bad idea for an engine that lives at high rpm.
Old 10-05-20, 04:00 PM
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Any update TomU?
Old 10-05-20, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by silverTRD
Any update TomU?
Unfortunately. IRP finally got around tearing down my motor and said it's trashed. Don't have pictures yet, so don't know the extent. I thought it was warped seals, but it may have been my AI washing away all my combustion chamber lubrication. I had an externally fed OMP + 1 oz/gal pre-mix, but the AI (50/50, 500cc nozzle, opening at 7 psi) may have washed it away.
Old 10-06-20, 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by TomU
Unfortunately. IRP finally got around tearing down my motor and said it's trashed. Don't have pictures yet, so don't know the extent. I thought it was warped seals, but it may have been my AI washing away all my combustion chamber lubrication. I had an externally fed OMP + 1 oz/gal pre-mix, but the AI (50/50, 500cc nozzle, opening at 7 psi) may have washed it away.
Very interesting. Are you planning on making any changes to the injection going forward?
Old 10-06-20, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Molotovman
Very interesting. Are you planning on making any changes to the injection going forward?
TBD. Will be installing a V-mount which should take care of any AIT issues as well as Haltech ECU which may help safeguard against detonation, so not sure if AI will be needed
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