I've got the 15 x 6.5 BBS convertible wheels and since I have loaded up on them (9 and counting, 3 more to get) changing is not a consideration. Max size for ITS is 15 x 7

I ran some Kumho V700 tires 225/50 through a few laps at the track and driving school. The tires are in rough shape now, pretty much shot. They were not shaved as I now have read they should be and the alignment on the car wasn't set right. I guess that's part of the rookie driver learning curve.

To keep my costly errors to a minimum, I'm looking for some advice before my next tire purchase in some Hoosier R6's. I think the consensus is these are a great tire. My questions...


1. Heatcycle for $15 each from tirerack.com - scam or good deal? I really don't have the time or patience to run them for 15 minutes and then let them cool for a day. My Kumho's never got heat cycled, then again they were never even shaved.

2. Best size for 15 x 6.5 rim - 225/50 or 225/45 or ?

And on the Hoosier wet tires...

1. 205/50 or 225/55 ? Should I go with a different wet tire? Maybe the Kumho's unshaven?

I have only ran 225/50's - they cleared fine, needed 1/8" spacers in front but that was because of the Tokico Illumina's which are getting modified or changed out.

Thanks. I hope to contribute back one day when I learn a little more.

 

Cost Verses Rewards

I played with the idea of using the R6 Hoosiers. At the track my competitors ran them and I ran Toyo RA-1 tires shave and not shaved. What I found was with the shaved tire I ran as quick and quicker as the next guy on Hoosiers or Avons. What I have been told is that the Hoosier tire is worth .5 to 1 second a lap depending on track lay out. Also from my research with other drivers running both types is, cost. The Hoosiers will last only one weekend if you’re lucky even with a heat cycle and sitting a full week to cure. The Toyo RA-1 last me 3 to four race weekends. The Hoosiers are faster but your operating cost will jump by at least 4 time that of the RA-1s. Two reasons wear and the price per tire. So for this next season I will have to drive a little better than the next guy to win. But when I do win (Just like in the past) the victory will be sweeter knowing I did it with just a little less than them. So if you have the skill to keep it on that edge at every phase of the corner you will pull out over the next guy with better tires playing it safe (Not on the limit of traction circle). I say don’t spend the bucks but drive it to the limit. Put the money you save towards several X-mas gifts or birthday presents.

Race safe have fun.

 

I hadn't looked at the Toyo's much but just took a glance - they are a lot cheaper. Now I'm not sure on the R6, that's a significant cost savings on the Toyo. Shave for dry and unshaved for wet, that does leave me with the 225/50 option only.

The reason I looked into the Hoosiers is a guy I know claims to have used the same set for a 6 hr enduro, 6 hours of driving and school and they are still going strong. Maybe he's full of it? I also want the best...

 

I've read many good things about the new Nitto NT01. Apparently it's a lot like the RA-1 (Toyo owns Nitto) but with a bit more grip, and it doesn't need to be shaved to survive dry track conditions. There's a 225/45/15 due out soon. I plan on getting those for my car this spring. Hopefully they'll be cheaper than the RA-1's.

 

Shaving the RA1 doesn't have much to do with surviving dry track conditions... it will do that just fine, it has to do with the extra grip slash greater contact patch.

Another thing to consider is the ease with which the Hoosiers (or at least older generation S04 and S05's) flatspot in a spin or brake lockup.

 

So you are saying Hoosiers are easier to ruin than a Toyo, Kumho or similar? I would assume it would be due to a softer compound. After reading more on the Toyos recently I'm about 80% leaning that way as the best choice for me. I'm going to try and get an order placed this week for dry and rain tires.

 

Yeah... I've never run Hoosiers personally, but one of our customers seems hell bent on spending the extra money for his ITA RX7 (only to have me routinely finish ahead of him on 5 year old Toyo's in a SpecRX7) and most of his tires are pretty square after a weekend.

Somewhere there is a spreadsheet from when the SCCA did tire testing for the SM spec tire. It's probably a lot more useful for an ITS RX7 than mine since the sizes are closer, I'll see if I can dig it up and email it to you.

 

For the wet tires on 15 x 6.5 inch wheels, I would use a 205/50. The narrower contact patch will help when it is really wet. I currently have the Kuhmo's unshaved, and really wish that I had the Hoosier wets instead. The last two times on them, the guys on the Hoosier wets were driving around me.

For the normal tires, ask the tire guys if the 225/45 is too wide for a 6.5 inch wheel. IF they say it is ok, then do that. The shorter tire gives better feedback, and a better effective gear ratio.

I've driven the Toyo's, Kuhmos, and Hoosiers. I'm on the Hoosiers currently. The toyo's will ultimately last longer. The Hoosiers have a better "feel" to them(my opinion). On the OLD Hoosier R3S03's (and earlier), it was very easy to flatspot a cold tire. Starting with the S04's, the construction of the tire is a little different. They do feel a little heavier than the earlier tires did. They are also much more resistant to flatspots. I haven't had any trouble since the switch to S04's. The new ones also have a better life expectancy than the older ones did. I have gotten 11-13 heat cycles out of the last sets of S05's I've used.

I have heard taht some guys love the Goodyears. I have no personal experience with them though.

 

I hope I like them, I just ordered (6) Toyo RA-1 shaved to 4/32 and (4) unshaved for wet all in 225/50/15. Looks like I'm going to be on Toyo for a little while. www.wheel1.com seemed to have the best overvall cost when shipping and shaving were figured in. I called and they shopped around to get me a deal on shipping 10 tires.