First Gen Race car Build - Mazda BP Engine
11-03-12, 11:27 PM
#51
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Got the front clip done. It is removable with only four bolts. The entire front clip including the coolers come off with these 4 bolts!
11-04-12, 08:56 AM
#53
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Sometimes I think about throwing in the 20B PP drysump that is sitting around. But saving that for the tube chassis. (Although this car is pretty much a tube chassis anyways haha)
11-11-12, 06:24 PM
#54
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Started building the frame for the dash and the interior panels. Also started building the box around the exhaust to seal it from the driver's compartment.
12-09-12, 09:21 PM
#59
I spent the first major years of my car life in the miata world. I know the motors are beefy... but what kind of longevity would you get out of a turbo 600hp BP? Whats your redline/powerband? (are you making a 2.0 or leaving at 1.8?)
Could this motor setup let you keep up with 2j's and other bigdog cars?
Could this motor setup let you keep up with 2j's and other bigdog cars?
12-09-12, 09:27 PM
#60
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Well it seems like keeping a transmission or turbo together on track is more of a problem than the engine itself as long as there is proper cooling for oil and water. It is bored to 1.91L, so between the two.
Well the car with fuel and me in it weighs around 1950lb. So unless big dig cars are light or have monster power, will be hard for them to match the power to weight ratio! I am sure my car will be a handful, but hoping my rear suspension design and slicks help!
Well the car with fuel and me in it weighs around 1950lb. So unless big dig cars are light or have monster power, will be hard for them to match the power to weight ratio! I am sure my car will be a handful, but hoping my rear suspension design and slicks help!
12-09-12, 09:42 PM
#61
Went back and read some more stuff/checked the website... I think most of my questions got re-answered... I might pop back up with more.
This thing is ******* retarded. Its not even an FB anymore, much less a car or rx7. Very apples to oranges. Whatever it is, its just going to destroy. You've done amazing work creating a machine.
This thing is ******* retarded. Its not even an FB anymore, much less a car or rx7. Very apples to oranges. Whatever it is, its just going to destroy. You've done amazing work creating a machine.
12-10-12, 11:32 AM
#63
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Thread Starter
Went back and read some more stuff/checked the website... I think most of my questions got re-answered... I might pop back up with more.
This thing is ******* retarded. Its not even an FB anymore, much less a car or rx7. Very apples to oranges. Whatever it is, its just going to destroy. You've done amazing work creating a machine.
This thing is ******* retarded. Its not even an FB anymore, much less a car or rx7. Very apples to oranges. Whatever it is, its just going to destroy. You've done amazing work creating a machine.
Any questions you have, just post it!
12-10-12, 11:34 AM
#64
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Thread Starter
01-09-13, 05:59 PM
#67
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Thanks! I don't like to set dates since a few of them have come and gone already but doing my best to have it on track this year hoping for spring or at the latest beginning of summer.
01-09-13, 06:02 PM
#68
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The nice thing about the 4 link is that there is absolutely no lateral movement in the system. In addition with proper spring rates this system will most likely not need a sway bar in the back.
01-09-13, 06:38 PM
#69
-billy
01-09-13, 06:44 PM
#70
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Thread Starter
Also worth noting, the tri-link (3rd link) was developed for adherence to SCCA IT rules regarding the addition or subtraction of "traction bars". I believe the reason you see them the most is the fact someone developed a bolt on solution and many people do not have the ability to fabricate their own solution.
-billy
-billy
