FD race car interior ideas
#1
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
FD race car interior ideas
If I eliminate the console trim, is there a good way to relocate the switches I would lose?
I think they're non-critical but I would at least like to keep the defogger since my car doesn't have fog lights. I don't remember what the other switch was, since I've never actually driven it. If there was a third switch at all.
For the record, the car won't have an audio system, so I'll have two DINs worth of real estate to work with, I think.
Are there any ways to spruce up the exposed edges of the stock trim when you start removing parts of the interior? Somehow race cars never look as ghetto as a car that's simply missing parts of the interior.
I think they're non-critical but I would at least like to keep the defogger since my car doesn't have fog lights. I don't remember what the other switch was, since I've never actually driven it. If there was a third switch at all.
For the record, the car won't have an audio system, so I'll have two DINs worth of real estate to work with, I think.
Are there any ways to spruce up the exposed edges of the stock trim when you start removing parts of the interior? Somehow race cars never look as ghetto as a car that's simply missing parts of the interior.
#3
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
Very clean. I wonder how much I can do without modifying the stock harness. What sort of tranny are you using, given such a drastic relocation of the shifter hole?
#6
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (10)
Built by Bill Lackey originally.... I bought it from him.... now Cameron Rogers owns it locally.
It ran a GForce GSR 4spd dog box with internal shift rails. Much more compact and shifted incredibly fast.
The entire chassis was stripped bare, media blasted and then powdercoated white. That is a diff cooler/pump setup out back.
Cobra 8.8" IRS diff with essentially infinite gear ratio options.
It ran a GForce GSR 4spd dog box with internal shift rails. Much more compact and shifted incredibly fast.
The entire chassis was stripped bare, media blasted and then powdercoated white. That is a diff cooler/pump setup out back.
Cobra 8.8" IRS diff with essentially infinite gear ratio options.
Last edited by gnx7; 05-03-16 at 01:11 AM.
#7
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
I assume the tranny tunnel had to be pretty heavily modified? That definitely wouldn't work with an RHD car...haha.
So clean though!
Wow, it even has an interior firewall between the driver and the fuel system. And JRZs... Two ways?
Are those pull-up belts or pull-down?
So clean though!
Wow, it even has an interior firewall between the driver and the fuel system. And JRZs... Two ways?
Are those pull-up belts or pull-down?
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#8
Mazzei Formula
iTrader: (6)
Switches group into 2x 8 conductor wires, 8 colors each, 8 grounds for each switch, and then run to fuse boxes in trunk to trigger relays to then power the devices. Haven't wired up engine stuff yet, but for blinkers, turn signals, etc I find it alot more simplistic, and was able to gut all of the stock snakes.
Last edited by Monsterbox; 05-03-16 at 10:15 AM.
#9
Mazzei Formula
iTrader: (6)
Built by Bill Lackey originally.... I bought it from him.... now Cameron Rogers owns it locally.
It ran a GForce GSR 4spd dog box with internal shift rails. Much more compact and shifted incredibly fast.
The entire chassis was stripped bare, media blasted and then powdercoated white. That is a diff cooler/pump setup out back.
Cobra 8.8" IRS diff with essentially infinite gear ratio options.
It ran a GForce GSR 4spd dog box with internal shift rails. Much more compact and shifted incredibly fast.
The entire chassis was stripped bare, media blasted and then powdercoated white. That is a diff cooler/pump setup out back.
Cobra 8.8" IRS diff with essentially infinite gear ratio options.
#10
B O R I C U A
iTrader: (14)
Built by Bill Lackey originally.... I bought it from him.... now Cameron Rogers owns it locally.
It ran a GForce GSR 4spd dog box with internal shift rails. Much more compact and shifted incredibly fast.
The entire chassis was stripped bare, media blasted and then powdercoated white. That is a diff cooler/pump setup out back.
Cobra 8.8" IRS diff with essentially infinite gear ratio options.
It ran a GForce GSR 4spd dog box with internal shift rails. Much more compact and shifted incredibly fast.
The entire chassis was stripped bare, media blasted and then powdercoated white. That is a diff cooler/pump setup out back.
Cobra 8.8" IRS diff with essentially infinite gear ratio options.
#11
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
Switches group into 2x 8 conductor wires, 8 colors each, 8 grounds for each switch, and then run to fuse boxes in trunk to trigger relays to then power the devices. Haven't wired up engine stuff yet, but for blinkers, turn signals, etc I find it alot more simplistic, and was able to gut all of the stock snakes.
Did you completely gut the doors for the door bars?
#14
Rotary Freak
Here's a fairly dusty rhd minus it's motec dash at the time, runs a hollinger -
On the car here, just run an aluminium blanking panel like the others, electric screen, diff and gearbox pumps, start and ignition plus a few conveniences - that by rights, shouldn't be on a racecar!
Monsterbox, looks like the forward leg of that cage is fairly obtrusive...distance from A pillar for sightlines and the footwell, how do you find it? Normally bad enough in a rhd when the box section support comes off the sill too far and interferes with loud pedal operation.
On the car here, just run an aluminium blanking panel like the others, electric screen, diff and gearbox pumps, start and ignition plus a few conveniences - that by rights, shouldn't be on a racecar!
Monsterbox, looks like the forward leg of that cage is fairly obtrusive...distance from A pillar for sightlines and the footwell, how do you find it? Normally bad enough in a rhd when the box section support comes off the sill too far and interferes with loud pedal operation.
#15
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
Monsterbox, looks like the forward leg of that cage is fairly obtrusive...distance from A pillar for sightlines and the footwell, how do you find it? Normally bad enough in a rhd when the box section support comes off the sill too far and interferes with loud pedal operation.
#16
Mazzei Formula
iTrader: (6)
Yea it kinda blocks view a little but not much I can do about that now, just have to look around it. And unfortunately the bars stick out so much that I had to gut the insides of the doors, completely.
The cool part is now the doors look super clean as the insides are painted gloss to match exterior and it gives illusion of more room for arms. Opening is done by just pulling simple cable which will be mounted to the support beam.
The windows did have to be removed/cut out. Going to come back later on and make plexi-glass windows, weld some brackets along the window support frame, and drill into brackets for removeable plexi. For now, windows are least priority, thing will never be driven in rain.
Its a popular company, Kirk Racing. He welded the cage in and I painted it before finding out the fitment issues.
The cool part is now the doors look super clean as the insides are painted gloss to match exterior and it gives illusion of more room for arms. Opening is done by just pulling simple cable which will be mounted to the support beam.
The windows did have to be removed/cut out. Going to come back later on and make plexi-glass windows, weld some brackets along the window support frame, and drill into brackets for removeable plexi. For now, windows are least priority, thing will never be driven in rain.
Its a popular company, Kirk Racing. He welded the cage in and I painted it before finding out the fitment issues.
#17
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
Here's a fairly dusty rhd minus it's motec dash at the time, runs a hollinger -
On the car here, just run an aluminium blanking panel like the others, electric screen, diff and gearbox pumps, start and ignition plus a few conveniences - that by rights, shouldn't be on a racecar!
Monsterbox, looks like the forward leg of that cage is fairly obtrusive...distance from A pillar for sightlines and the footwell, how do you find it? Normally bad enough in a rhd when the box section support comes off the sill too far and interferes with loud pedal operation.
On the car here, just run an aluminium blanking panel like the others, electric screen, diff and gearbox pumps, start and ignition plus a few conveniences - that by rights, shouldn't be on a racecar!
Monsterbox, looks like the forward leg of that cage is fairly obtrusive...distance from A pillar for sightlines and the footwell, how do you find it? Normally bad enough in a rhd when the box section support comes off the sill too far and interferes with loud pedal operation.
#18
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
http://www.rollbar.jp/images/c28_fd3s_2_b009.jpg
This is what an RHD bolt-in cage looks like in the front, even when you go through the dash.
This is what an RHD bolt-in cage looks like in the front, even when you go through the dash.
#20
Rotary Freak
Yea it kinda blocks view a little but not much I can do about that now, just have to look around it. And unfortunately the bars stick out so much that I had to gut the insides of the doors, completely.
The cool part is now the doors look super clean as the insides are painted gloss to match exterior and it gives illusion of more room for arms. Opening is done by just pulling simple cable which will be mounted to the support beam.
The windows did have to be removed/cut out. Going to come back later on and make plexi-glass windows, weld some brackets along the window support frame, and drill into brackets for removeable plexi. For now, windows are least priority, thing will never be driven in rain.
Its a popular company, Kirk Racing. He welded the cage in and I painted it before finding out the fitment issues.
The cool part is now the doors look super clean as the insides are painted gloss to match exterior and it gives illusion of more room for arms. Opening is done by just pulling simple cable which will be mounted to the support beam.
The windows did have to be removed/cut out. Going to come back later on and make plexi-glass windows, weld some brackets along the window support frame, and drill into brackets for removeable plexi. For now, windows are least priority, thing will never be driven in rain.
Its a popular company, Kirk Racing. He welded the cage in and I painted it before finding out the fitment issues.
Bit far for you, this guy does nice molded acrylic windows Sandbrooks Marine Glazing - For Marine Windows, Windscreens, Windshields & Doors there's also a mob over there who do composite doors, but I'd hesitate to recommend them with all the BS we experienced.
Originally Posted by Valkerie
http://www.rollbar.jp/images/c28_fd3s_2_b009.jpg
This is what an RHD bolt-in cage looks like in the front, even when you go through the dash.
This is what an RHD bolt-in cage looks like in the front, even when you go through the dash.
There's another problem you can encounter as well, if you still have electrics in the doors. I've had to install new harnesses in one car, where the door plug was totally inaccessible with the cage in place....soldering lots of little wires there in a kama sutra position, one of my favourite jobs.
Don't have any pics of that area on hand. Only one I have in the general vicinity - and one not to emulate probably - is a bit of a Sainz reinforcement on the intrusion bars, side impact might guarantee broken knees/tibia or sore shins at least, don't understand why it was done that way - not for this little black duck.
#21
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
The vast majority of bolt-in cages avoid the dash. But all cages are available as through-dash versions. It's apparently a huge PITA to install.
I'm gonna have to make or buy a foot plate like that... you don't have the measurements or a pattern do you?
I'm gonna have to make or buy a foot plate like that... you don't have the measurements or a pattern do you?
#23
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
#24
Rotary Freak
No measurements on the floor pieces. In our case, just aluminium checkerplate roughly trimmed to size on the bandsaw, then cleaned up to fit with linisher and file. A couple of alloy rib extrusions underneath to make it level and fibreglass batt material between the floor and the plate.
We used foundry refractory insulation behind the factory sub-floor metal heat shields - along with coast fabrication silver reflective tape on nearby surfaces to minimize heat intrusion, a stainless shield on the gearbox was made up too.
That carbon footplate would have been made by Pollard, carbon man on here. Not sure if there's a mold as such, probably a bit of flat carbon the boys have trimmed to size, there's also a knee rest, looks similar.....
We used foundry refractory insulation behind the factory sub-floor metal heat shields - along with coast fabrication silver reflective tape on nearby surfaces to minimize heat intrusion, a stainless shield on the gearbox was made up too.
That carbon footplate would have been made by Pollard, carbon man on here. Not sure if there's a mold as such, probably a bit of flat carbon the boys have trimmed to size, there's also a knee rest, looks similar.....
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