FD Brake Ducts
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 146
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From: Connecticut
Small details like...keep a grinder handy would have been appreciated! Photo for your enjoyment...thank God I have a lift, I can't imagine enjoying this if I was under the car.
Don't get me wrong...I fully appreciate the ducts and hold tremendous respect for Nick to come up with this elegant solution and believe me...his duct is not easy to make. It looks dumb and basic, but there is no way to make such a duct easily, the least of which the big bend required to clear the ABS sensor, it must have taken some careful thought to be able to bend it and not crush the tube.
Next time...please include a list of required tools and instructions. Photo below for your pleasure...I am glad I have that big-*** hand grinder.
Damn I am gonna miss my car
cheers
W
Don't get me wrong...I fully appreciate the ducts and hold tremendous respect for Nick to come up with this elegant solution and believe me...his duct is not easy to make. It looks dumb and basic, but there is no way to make such a duct easily, the least of which the big bend required to clear the ABS sensor, it must have taken some careful thought to be able to bend it and not crush the tube.
Next time...please include a list of required tools and instructions. Photo below for your pleasure...I am glad I have that big-*** hand grinder.
Damn I am gonna miss my car
cheers
W
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 146
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From: Connecticut
Originally posted by maxpesce
No - just use the "Post Reply' button to get to the post editing screen, insted of the quick post box at the bottom of the thread - the edit screen will have an attach file field w/ a Browse button - browse to the file you wnt to attach and the submit the reply - ....SNIP
No - just use the "Post Reply' button to get to the post editing screen, insted of the quick post box at the bottom of the thread - the edit screen will have an attach file field w/ a Browse button - browse to the file you wnt to attach and the submit the reply - ....SNIP
cheers
W
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 10,672
Likes: 413
From: Charlottesville VA 22901
Originally posted by DigDug
Yeah, I was surprised too. I did a couple of events at Summit before going to VIR in this car for the first time, and I was expecting that I would be getting higher speeds on the back straight at VIR than the front straight at Summit. Not so...
It has to do with the turns leading onto the straights. At Summit, you come onto a very long straight from a very fast, straightforward corner. No real complexity there. The front straight at VIR is really a constant turn, coming out of hog pen, which is a fast complex, but not the fastest section in my car (the car is constantly rotating the entire time through, so it keeps me on my toes with the throttle). If I were more aggressive through hog pen, I am sure I would hit a higher top speed than I have on the front straight, but I still don't see it matching the front straight at Summit. Summit's front straight really is straight...
As for the back straight at VIR, just think oak tree. Then it is not surprising that the front straight turns out to be faster. And that is easy to forget, until you hit the track!
So if you think about it, it really isn't that surprising that the "faster" straight is Summit, given the car.
And as for the speeds in general, to reiterate yet again, 2600lb wet with 400hp. Pretty obvious now, yes?
Yeah, I was surprised too. I did a couple of events at Summit before going to VIR in this car for the first time, and I was expecting that I would be getting higher speeds on the back straight at VIR than the front straight at Summit. Not so...
It has to do with the turns leading onto the straights. At Summit, you come onto a very long straight from a very fast, straightforward corner. No real complexity there. The front straight at VIR is really a constant turn, coming out of hog pen, which is a fast complex, but not the fastest section in my car (the car is constantly rotating the entire time through, so it keeps me on my toes with the throttle). If I were more aggressive through hog pen, I am sure I would hit a higher top speed than I have on the front straight, but I still don't see it matching the front straight at Summit. Summit's front straight really is straight...
As for the back straight at VIR, just think oak tree. Then it is not surprising that the front straight turns out to be faster. And that is easy to forget, until you hit the track!
So if you think about it, it really isn't that surprising that the "faster" straight is Summit, given the car.
And as for the speeds in general, to reiterate yet again, 2600lb wet with 400hp. Pretty obvious now, yes?
Doug your going to have lots of fds chasing you
10 before the straight at Summit is a very challenging turn for me.
Try to make it to some of the seat time events this year.
Wael,
Someone is sure lucky to have you busting knuckles for them
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Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Connecticut
Well, I finished installing both backing plates. Its a tough job because the bend in the 3" tube that becomes the moon shaped cresent is not shaped perfectly. This means a lot of reshaping is required as well as enlarging some of the bolt holes because they were made too precise.
Overall the setup is clean. The real big step forward came after spending a total of 8 hours figuring out how to shape the aluminum air ducting I bought from Home Depot as well as finding a good location to pick up the air. I believe the solution and routing I used will have the ducts on the car for a long time.
The biggest advantage about the 3" aluminum ducts from Home Depot's plumbing department is they can be shaped, so in some areas I made it ablong, and in others I was able to clear a bracket or two by dimpling the area that required clearance.
I took many photos but forgot the camera at the shop. I will pick it up tomorrow and upload some photos.
cheers
W
Overall the setup is clean. The real big step forward came after spending a total of 8 hours figuring out how to shape the aluminum air ducting I bought from Home Depot as well as finding a good location to pick up the air. I believe the solution and routing I used will have the ducts on the car for a long time.
The biggest advantage about the 3" aluminum ducts from Home Depot's plumbing department is they can be shaped, so in some areas I made it ablong, and in others I was able to clear a bracket or two by dimpling the area that required clearance.
I took many photos but forgot the camera at the shop. I will pick it up tomorrow and upload some photos.
cheers
W
Last edited by wael.el-dasher@efini.net; Feb 2, 2004 at 08:53 PM.
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From: North Carolina
wael,
The hoses on mine are 2 1/2 if i remember correctly. My hoses actually came from an aircraft , but i think www.racerpartswholesale.com sells it as well.
Oh yeah, Wael, i emailed you in reference to a carpart.. PM me if you're interested in working a deal.
Thanks
Shannon
The hoses on mine are 2 1/2 if i remember correctly. My hoses actually came from an aircraft , but i think www.racerpartswholesale.com sells it as well.
Oh yeah, Wael, i emailed you in reference to a carpart.. PM me if you're interested in working a deal.
Thanks
Shannon
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Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 548
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From: Sebring, FL
Just an update for anyone that ordered brake ducts from N-Tech......The ducts are done being machined, now we just have to do some bending and some welding, and then they'll be done. Nick will probably have them done this weekend or early next week. Any questions, call him up or shot him an email.
I'm a CF and poop smith
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,957
Likes: 1
From: Hawaii
Originally posted by DrPJM1
Let me get this straight: if I run a dedicated brake duct to a custom backing plate I may not need a big brake upgrade?
Let me get this straight: if I run a dedicated brake duct to a custom backing plate I may not need a big brake upgrade?
I'm a CF and poop smith
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,957
Likes: 1
From: Hawaii
Originally posted by Shawntx76
and not to mis guide this thread any more but on spike tv i saw they had a kit to paint breaks .... anyone got good info on that?
and not to mis guide this thread any more but on spike tv i saw they had a kit to paint breaks .... anyone got good info on that?
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 513
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From: Princeton, IL
I'm easy on the stock brakes but have found them fading a little after repeated laps. Switched to Hawks but they dust up a storm. Switching to EBC's when I finish up the Hawks.
Sorry to come in late to this thread but:
how much for the backing plates in Kevlar for 2.5"-3" hose, and how much hose do I need approximately?
Sorry to come in late to this thread but:
how much for the backing plates in Kevlar for 2.5"-3" hose, and how much hose do I need approximately?
I'm a CF and poop smith
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,957
Likes: 1
From: Hawaii
Originally posted by rx7even
Just an update for anyone that ordered brake ducts from N-Tech......The ducts are done being machined, now we just have to do some bending and some welding, and then they'll be done. Nick will probably have them done this weekend or early next week. Any questions, call him up or shot him an email.
Just an update for anyone that ordered brake ducts from N-Tech......The ducts are done being machined, now we just have to do some bending and some welding, and then they'll be done. Nick will probably have them done this weekend or early next week. Any questions, call him up or shot him an email.
in anycase, mines are made from carbonfiber or carbonfiber & kevlar or 100%kevlar and are only 150 dollars, if anyone is intrested in buying a set, let me know. i have already made a set for bigisland7 and have pics of the finished product, pm or email me with your email and I can send you pics.
P.S. Mines have a larger area so that it protects from debrie like the stock sheilds do
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Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 548
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From: Sebring, FL
Wael: There's a great reason. It would probably take a week unless the machine shop making the backing plates made a mistake and had to redo them, taking their sweet time with the whole process. I've been there everyday and got the same story everyday.
Skunks: I'm not sure how the fiberglass thing came into play. The 350Z brake ducts N-Tech offers are made out of fiberglass (very trick looking piece too), but the RX-7 ducts are not. Maybe there was a mix up in information somewhere.
Ryan
Skunks: I'm not sure how the fiberglass thing came into play. The 350Z brake ducts N-Tech offers are made out of fiberglass (very trick looking piece too), but the RX-7 ducts are not. Maybe there was a mix up in information somewhere.
Ryan
I'm a CF and poop smith
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,957
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From: Hawaii
Originally posted by rx7even
Skunks: I'm not sure how the fiberglass thing came into play. The 350Z brake ducts N-Tech offers are made out of fiberglass (very trick looking piece too), but the RX-7 ducts are not. Maybe there was a mix up in information somewhere.
Ryan
Skunks: I'm not sure how the fiberglass thing came into play. The 350Z brake ducts N-Tech offers are made out of fiberglass (very trick looking piece too), but the RX-7 ducts are not. Maybe there was a mix up in information somewhere.
Ryan
artowar
The Confusion 4.13.2004
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Registered: Apr 2003
Location: SoCal
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I called Nick today to get in on the GB. He says that these ducts will be made from fiberglass, not aluminum like his previous ducts. I don't really care whether they are aluminum or not, as long as they can withstand vibration, heat, brake dust, grime, etc.
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Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Out playing pseudo racer
Originally posted by skunks
in anycase, mines are made from carbonfiber or carbonfiber & kevlar or 100%kevlar and are only 150 dollars, if anyone is intrested in buying a set, let me know. i have already made a set for bigisland7 and have pics of the finished product, pm or email me with your email and I can send you pics.
P.S. Mines have a larger area so that it protects from debrie like the stock sheilds do
in anycase, mines are made from carbonfiber or carbonfiber & kevlar or 100%kevlar and are only 150 dollars, if anyone is intrested in buying a set, let me know. i have already made a set for bigisland7 and have pics of the finished product, pm or email me with your email and I can send you pics.
P.S. Mines have a larger area so that it protects from debrie like the stock sheilds do
I'm a CF and poop smith
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,957
Likes: 1
From: Hawaii
Originally posted by 1st to 3rd
I was under the impression that your ducts only directed air at the rear face of the rotor? Where as the N-techs were a tight fit with the rotor, directing the air into the veins and nearer the bearings.
I was under the impression that your ducts only directed air at the rear face of the rotor? Where as the N-techs were a tight fit with the rotor, directing the air into the veins and nearer the bearings.
Nick later told me that he switched from Fiberglass to metal. That's fine with me-- I'd rather have metal than Fiberglass or CF, unless I knew that some type of fireproof resin was used in the product.
