Hey guys,

Lookin for suggestions from folks who race their cars regarding what spring rates I should go with, on the GC setup I'm planning on getting shortly.

The car will be used in Autox and hillclimbing but I dont need to worry about classes because the LS1 swap already puts it in classes it will never be competitive. The car will also see street use on the weekend and to/from the track. I will be using sticky street tires or Dot R compounds

Was thinking there is no reason why I couldent go with 8/6k like most coilovers but that doesnt seem like a popular option with the GCs

Let me know,
Thanks

 

If your car is an FD, an 8/6k is a really weak rate for an AutoX car. I guess it's all how stiff you want to go... you either compromise being faster on track/the AutoX for being a little more comfortable on the street or vice versa.

 

As the thread title says... its an FC

I dont care much about the comfort. The car runs straight pipes and is completly stripped. Its not very comfortable anyway. I usually can only drive it for an hour or so at a time on the street. Its basically similar to a street bike in terms of how practical it is

 

Sorry about that... I completely missed that. I read through your post a couple times and then checked your profile and it said "93 FD"... and it was right in front of my face in the title... doh!

 

its a good starting point, unless the engine changes the cornerweight vs the rotary.

GC will want you to start with 6/4 which works really well, and is totally streetable

 

450# front and 350# rear springs will be nearly identical to 8k/6k.

5k = 279 lb/in
6k = 335 lb/in
7k = 391 lb/in
8k = 447 lb/in
9k = 503 lb/in
10k = 559 lb/in
11k = 615 lb/in
12k = 671 lb/in
13k = 726 lb/in
14k = 782 lb/in

 

Yeah I was planning on going with whatever was close to 8/6k Honestly the only reason I'm looking at the GC and Konis is because thats what I see people use at the track and I know the Konis dyno better than just about anything even remotly close in price. I would get some cheaper coilovers but it just doesnt look like they spend the money on the shocks, even if the rest of the coilover is higher quality.

I am looking on input from people who have run these spring rates on GCs and stock konis what their input is or if they've had fantastic sucess with other set ups.

 

Yes a Koni or Bilstein setup is the best, but it is about 10-15% better for 50% more price (total coilover cost). And to really get them perfect, they need to be custom valved anyway.

I run custom valved Bilstens with coilovers on another car, and my 30 way adjustable BC coilovers on my FC work pretty well once adjusted properly. My point is in the end, for what you are doing, the Konis are not going to be a magic bullet that makes you unbelieveably faster around the track. Just food for thought.

 

I've been flip flopping both ways and cant seem to make a decision. I really want a setup that works well and I dont even have acces to an rx7 with coilovers to see if I like it, even with the best coilovers or some junk that bounces down the road or something in the middle.

I just dont know what to do honestly. I have no information which is why I'm reaching out.

I know you like the BCs and I was about to buy those but then I've read from multiple people they dont dyno well. I dont know how to read the shock dynos so I dont really have an opinion myself.

 

If you are that worried about it, look at the dynos and form an opinion before shelling out money. If you want my opinion, I don't think it would be that big of a deal for you either way.

If you have everything else perfect on your car, and you are competing at a regional level, then worry about shock dynos. If you get BC, Stance, Tein, or whatever else, as long as you get something of decent quality, I'm sure you will be happy with them for what you are doing.

I don't know what you budget is or if you have one, but if you are going to shell out for a Koni/GC setup I think you would be better off getting a cheaper good JDM style coilover and sway bars, (if you dont have them) all new suspension bushings, rear spherical arm bearings and individual camber adjusters with the extra cash. Your car will handle a lot better with the entire suspension addressed rather than throwing on some shocks that dyno well.

 

I have most of the other stuff. I just need a few more bushings done. Like I said before. The front control arm bushings are shot and need help big time but everything else is good or replaced. I have RB sway bars although I am not running a rear bar.

Heres the million dollar question. Will I notice the difference between the BCs and the koni/gc setup? I'm planning on adding another 100whp this winter and I want something thats easy to catch at the track.

I would assume a setup with less than perfect dampning will ride harder on the street (I'm ok with this), be more prone to losing traction over road imperfections (not so ok with this, because new england has some pretty beat *** roads and I can at times drive like an idiot on the street) and be a little scarier during quick transitions from side to side. You've had both set ups. Shed light man.. You really dont know how much I just wanna pull the trigger on the BCs and be done with it but I get OCD about **** like this. The BCs fit in my budget, other than the shock dynos they look like they are quality built, deff more so than ground controls which dont have the best fit and finnish (again not a huge concern on my car but it is nice to have quality workmanship)

 

The Konis setup is probably 10% better, if everything else is perfect. Using that 10% is another story. With an improper alignment, or worn front arm bushings etc. you will never even feel a difference.

A good set of JDM style coilovers are not going to hold you back right now, or with another 100 HP. Start thinking about Konis when you are running R compound tires, race brake pads and are looking for a couple extra tenths per lap, not seconds per lap.

Let me put it another way. I have put over 1000 track miles on my car in the last year, and I don't regret getting the BCs at all. I have ran on bumpy tracks and perfectly smooth tracks and have been very satisfied.

My car is fully solid and it still rides decent on the street because it is not overdamped or over sprung. Yes it is a bit harsh over sudden bumps or dips, but for everything I have done, it is liveable.