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Excessive/GZ Oil Pan?

Old 10-08-14, 04:15 AM
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Excessive/GZ Oil Pan?

My oil pan has sprung a leak and while I have it off I am contemplating switching to the Excessive/GZ large capacity pan. However, upon researching the product it doesn't seem like a great "upgrade" without fabing up some custom baffles and extending the pick up.

I know the pan is a popular mod, but Im wondering...do any of you track guys run it? Without investing a good amount of time into the baffling Im thinking I may be better off just resealing the factory pan and calling it a day.

The car is a dedicated time attack FD with proper catch can ventilation.

Thanks!
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Old 10-08-14, 08:52 AM
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I looked into that oil pan as well.I decided to get the oil pan brace instead.what I didn't like about the oil pan ,is it's cast aluminum so if you hit something or a rock happens to bounce under and hit it,it will crack.I would rather have a dent then a mess.

The only thing about the brace is that it rises the engine a bit.if you don't have a strut tower you'll be fine.

What I did was use 2 steel motor mounts. took a bit of the motor mounts for Clarence I use a surface grinder to make sure everything was true and flat,and the same height.
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Old 10-08-14, 10:22 AM
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I don't know anyone who runs it. The biggest issue that I have with it is that it sits too low - making it too easy for it to get damaged on track curbing or an off track excursion.

I don't think this car *needs* extra oil capacity.
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Old 10-08-14, 05:20 PM
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^+1, all that really matters is where and how the oil is getting into the engine. I would just reseal it or custom fab one.
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Old 10-08-14, 11:25 PM
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One thing that hasn't been considered here is rigidity.
The aluminum pan adds quite a bit of rigidity.

I don't do many track days, but do a lot of autocross, some one somewhat rough courses,
The car sits 26" at the fenders, never had an issue with the Excessive oil pan, about 7 years now.
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Old 10-12-14, 02:06 AM
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Thanks for the feedback guys.
Im thinking Ill just reseal it or at the most get the brace and turn the mounts a bit on the lathe. Lower temp is the only benefit I can see from running slightly more capacity without extending the pickup...and with a decent oil cooler setup I don't think you'd even see a difference. I also don't like how Id have to fab baffles. Not to mention the possibility of shattering it...
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Old 11-04-14, 08:44 AM
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why would you turn the mounts on a lathe? before you reseal the pan make sure that it is completley flat with no high spots, i would reccmmend putting it on a table to check for high spots and pound it flat with wood and a hammer
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Old 11-06-14, 02:04 AM
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Originally Posted by evo_koa View Post
why would you turn the mounts on a lathe? before you reseal the pan make sure that it is completley flat with no high spots, i would reccmmend putting it on a table to check for high spots and pound it flat with wood and a hammer
The modification to the mounts was in reference to using the aftermarket pan brace. The engine becomes slightly raised when using the pan brace due to the thickness of the brace itself. Tolerances on my plumbing are pretty tight, therefore the mounts would need to be shortened.
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Old 11-06-14, 02:05 AM
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In other news: This is scary.
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Old 11-07-14, 10:20 AM
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I BelieveThe reason he is using a lathe is because he is turning down the polyurethane or some sort of soild motor mount insert not the arms like I did on a surface grinder since I am running the stock liquid filled rubber mounts.they can't be turned down like the solid ones.
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Old 11-09-14, 11:45 PM
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^^^
Yes.

Being in the race car tech forum, I didn't think to specify that.
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