Is this enough oil cooling for my 13bt, and road racing.
#1
Is this enough oil cooling for my 13bt, and road racing.
The car is a 82 FB
the engine is a 91 JDM 13bt, 60-1 to4b, tubular manifold
22x19x2 chevy racing radiator, 24x18x2 volvo intercooler,
I want to use two of these coolers:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...rt=BMM%2D70266
one on each side of the front opening, using a GSL-SE air dam or a IMSA front air dam (if I can find one)
Ill be using 8an lines
I was planning on running them in series, with a thermostat between them so that one is always hooked up and the other comes on when needed.
I will be using the car on the street, along with some track days. and I plan on entering the 2004 Targa newfoundland. Which requires running the car hard for 10 to 20 min at a time.
What do you think
the engine is a 91 JDM 13bt, 60-1 to4b, tubular manifold
22x19x2 chevy racing radiator, 24x18x2 volvo intercooler,
I want to use two of these coolers:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...rt=BMM%2D70266
one on each side of the front opening, using a GSL-SE air dam or a IMSA front air dam (if I can find one)
Ill be using 8an lines
I was planning on running them in series, with a thermostat between them so that one is always hooked up and the other comes on when needed.
I will be using the car on the street, along with some track days. and I plan on entering the 2004 Targa newfoundland. Which requires running the car hard for 10 to 20 min at a time.
What do you think
#2
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Cool, someone else considering the Targa Newfoundland for 2004! I need to finish my car first....
I run the same cooler, but in the 11 x 11" size on my 13B NA. Running at the track on a 95F+ day, my oil temps would start to creep up to 220F after about 15 min of hard running. This was with no ducting at all, which should improve with the ducting I now have planned. If you run 2 of them, I'd put the thermostat before the first cooler. The Mocal t-stat I use provides about 10% flow through the cooler even when cold and then opens up as it gets hotter to full flow through the cooler. With cold oil, I don't think you will get much flow through the first cooler's small passages.
One problem I have had with the 11 x 11" cooler is the I have had 3 of them start to leak after a few months. I think this problem is only related to this size cooler because it is so long. I have it mounted in an aluminum frame that is rubber mounted to the car and I still have leaks.... :o( At least Racer Parts Wholesale has taken them back and replaced them.
I run the same cooler, but in the 11 x 11" size on my 13B NA. Running at the track on a 95F+ day, my oil temps would start to creep up to 220F after about 15 min of hard running. This was with no ducting at all, which should improve with the ducting I now have planned. If you run 2 of them, I'd put the thermostat before the first cooler. The Mocal t-stat I use provides about 10% flow through the cooler even when cold and then opens up as it gets hotter to full flow through the cooler. With cold oil, I don't think you will get much flow through the first cooler's small passages.
One problem I have had with the 11 x 11" cooler is the I have had 3 of them start to leak after a few months. I think this problem is only related to this size cooler because it is so long. I have it mounted in an aluminum frame that is rubber mounted to the car and I still have leaks.... :o( At least Racer Parts Wholesale has taken them back and replaced them.
#3
ill be running 10-40, so I dont think flow is a huge problem. I would just like to know that one is dedicated in case I have a problem with the T stat.
if one is holding up for you in a NA then two should handle a turbo no problem, and mine will be ducted
if one is holding up for you in a NA then two should handle a turbo no problem, and mine will be ducted
#4
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I switch over to running synthetic 10W-30 to help the cooler live longer because I thought I had too much pressure (120psi @ 5000rpm).
If you really want a fool-proof system, check out the spec for that cooler that you have listed. Tru-Cool makes them for B&M and they have some kind of bypass built in for when the oil is thick and cold. I think the top and bottom rows have larger bypass passages in them. If it really works you would not need a t-stat.
I have trouble in cooler weather (below 65F) with the motor never getting warm enough, but that is probably more application dependent.
Oh, and I run a 6 qt. sump and the system holds about 10qts. Good for oil, but it gets expensive at oil change time Also, you should run AN-10 lines and not -8's to give better flow and less pressure drop (even though the cooler is a bigger restriction).
If you really want a fool-proof system, check out the spec for that cooler that you have listed. Tru-Cool makes them for B&M and they have some kind of bypass built in for when the oil is thick and cold. I think the top and bottom rows have larger bypass passages in them. If it really works you would not need a t-stat.
I have trouble in cooler weather (below 65F) with the motor never getting warm enough, but that is probably more application dependent.
Oh, and I run a 6 qt. sump and the system holds about 10qts. Good for oil, but it gets expensive at oil change time Also, you should run AN-10 lines and not -8's to give better flow and less pressure drop (even though the cooler is a bigger restriction).
#6
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1/2 " NPT does not mean the internal thread size is 1/2" Take a look at a 1/2"-to-AN-10 fitting, there is no reduction in internal diameter. It is a straight through fitting. Check the ID of a 1/2" NPT and you will see.
#7
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FWIW-
A 1/2" NPT fitting is actually 3/4" diameter at the threads and is usually about 0.62" ID.
AN-10 ID is 0.625"
OK, you loose 0.005" ID, but it is better than AN-8 at 0.500" where you loose 0.125" ID.
A 1/2" NPT fitting is actually 3/4" diameter at the threads and is usually about 0.62" ID.
AN-10 ID is 0.625"
OK, you loose 0.005" ID, but it is better than AN-8 at 0.500" where you loose 0.125" ID.
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#8
I think all the "AN" stuff you can buy from speed shops is actually a little smaller than regular hydraulic lines. When comparing a -8 "AN" hose to the Parker EZ-Flex hose I have the ID was visually larger on the Parker. I think the hose ends have about the same orifice size though.
#11
I believe they are the same width as the 1st gen ones, which would make them as wide as the stock radiator in your 82. I'd guess about 2 inches thick and 5 inches high, but I don't feel like running outside to check right now.
If you want my opinion, the Mazda coolers are far superior to B&M coolers. RX-7 oil coolers are huge, very well made, relatively cheap and easy to come by, one should be enough for your car.
If you want my opinion, the Mazda coolers are far superior to B&M coolers. RX-7 oil coolers are huge, very well made, relatively cheap and easy to come by, one should be enough for your car.
#12
I believe the FC coolers are a couple/few inches longer than the gsl-se coolers. I'd like to see how you plan on mounting two of them in your FB, I don't have the space for one of them with the FMIC.
#13
I have a couple of ideas.
If I went with one cooler. It would be flat against the belly pan with a scoop on the bottom of the car.
Not only would this cool oil but it would reduce front end lift a fractional amount.
If I went with two, well, I dont know, thats why I need the measurements.
If I went with one cooler. It would be flat against the belly pan with a scoop on the bottom of the car.
Not only would this cool oil but it would reduce front end lift a fractional amount.
If I went with two, well, I dont know, thats why I need the measurements.
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