It was at button willow and temp was around 90-100. my water temp went to 205 after only 3 laps, on my car I had usually ITS mod. pully. 2 row radiator. and remove thermo... some guys at track tell me u can rev it out to 220. dam that sound scary!! what should I do to low down the temp!! I was think make a better ducting ( I have factory ducting now). put a hight pressure cap. if this doesnt help I might want to change to AWR cross flow radiator. will runing two oil cooler help ? I am using the rebuild stock one, and oil temp was around 220 at that time
BTW my car is 13B PP

 

is this F or C?

 

better radiator, oil cooler, and ducting will be helpful, but the temps don't look bad for a hot day like you had. be sure if you removed the t-stat to plug the bypass hole(below t-stat) and add a restriction in the t-stat housing(gutted t-stat works). this will insure the water is flowing. synthetic oil will also give you a litte more heat protection.

 

My 7 is pretty much stock but I did put a "tall" rad with just water in her and also WaterWetter by Red Line. On the track she normally runs between 200 and 210. I was told that when passes 210 do a cool down lap. But that has not happened yet.

 

Dual stock oil coolers(one at the top of the radiator, one at the very bottom), Cut a vent 2 feet long, 3" high right in the center of front bumper (and the bumper support)where the moulding is. Remove anything(solenoids, coolant overflow, etc) from in front of the radiator. I also cantilever the back of my hood up about an inch and a half by removing the rearword hood to hinge bolt. I also removed the rubber at the back of the hood. I then pinned the front of the hood for safety, and used rubber bumper to hold the hood up( it will cantilever up at about 60mph without the bumpers, so there is some pretty good flow going on. All these mods plus a huge griffin radiator and a custom AST system took my temps from unusable(220+) to 195 both oil and water with 20-30 minutes of nonstop racing. On the highway the oil temps are around 150-160, and water is 165-175. Hope this helps, I know you recently did a bunch of paint work, so you may not want to cut the bumper unless you have to. The cut-out is present on many of the JDM body kits, and is a common mod over there.
Good luck, Carl Byck

 

Try running with the heat on.

 

That reminds me of a painful drive back from out camping trip on the Mississippi. Our GMC Vandura was overheating very badly, so we had to crank the heat. When we were back I had no more leg hairs.

 

I'm at 210 all the time, no worries here.

PaulC

 

my dad had an overheating problem at the first MARRS race at Summit. he hit like 220-225 water temp and could feel the power loss. So what we did, it took that aluminum tape stuff and taped off the holes and spaces near the radiator so ALL the air would be forced through the radiator, and retarded the timing a little bit (which is now right back where it was originally). Then the next race, 195 the entire race! thats a mistery we still havent solved.

the only thing that changed from last year is removal of the cat.... WOULD THAT CAUSE IT TO RUN HOTTER? something with backpressure or whatever? because all the SRX7's were running hot that weekend. im just throwing out ideas here.

 

I used self expanding foam from Orchard Supply. Red and white can. Sprayed it in all the cracks and crevices in the nose, thereby forcing all air coming in to exit thru the radiator. Dropped oil and water temps 10 degrees each.

If you can prop up the back of the hood an inch or so that'll help hot air exit. Buddy did that in his hot running Rx2 and it dropped 10 degrees.

 

hmmm.... so maybe the tape on the radiator WAS the reasion it ran cooler. thats hard to believe that the car dropped from 220 to 195 just by taping off a few gaps though.

 

just got my new radiator. hope this will end my nightmare

 

just got my new radiator. hope this will end my nightmare

 

I wouldn't use water wetter. It will eat the hell out of your coolant seals. Seen it happen.

 

Um, 205 F is only 96 C. Are you serious? New rad does look sharp, btw .

 

No kidding? How long do they last with Water Wetter?

Anyone else experienced this?

 

Ernie, please share that info with us in detail, as every racer I know, and most street cars use Water Wetter all the time.
Carl Byck

 

Dave at KDR showed me how water wetter ate coolant seals on 4 engines he had in his shop and vowed never to use it again. I've also been told this by other rotary engine builders. Personally I've never used it in my rotary engine, but I have used it in piston engines with good results.

 

Um Dave at KDR, he was your "tuner" right? Nough said
I guess if you have acceptable temps without it, why add it, but if your car is running hot, the water wetter will not have time to eat the seal will it

 

Yea, I didn't want to get into that. Wanted to stay "politically correct" As far as tuning I'll leave that to my man Demetrios. The way I look at it is, your only going to go as fast as your tuner has been...right? In that case, 9.20@153mph on turbo only ain't too shabby! As far as Dave goes, I've said my peace on that subject.

 

I thought the coolant seal problems Dave was seing were with DexCool coolant (Orange stuff) not Water Wetter?

 

Both..

 

I'm so proud of you

Oh, and I think I'll be staying away from water wetter.....

 

I have been using water wetter for years and have never seen any "eaten" seals. I have used distilled water and regular water from the hose to mix with. this sounds like an excuse for another problem. I know many racers who have also used it for many years without a problem. I have currently been using the Royal Purple version though. One thing the Redline water wetter did was build up some scale in my aluminum radiator. this may have also come from the water that was used, but once I switched to the Royal purple stuff I didn't see this problem anymore. the cost is about the same and for me it is readily available. I never use any coolant and I probably change the water every 6 months or so.

 

YUP