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cooling advice.....

Old 12-16-15, 02:48 PM
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cooling advice.....

as i said im running a 12a bridgeport in a 70 mg midget in s.c.c.a. reginal in arkansas. have only ran it 1 time to test motor...no probls there,but i dont run a altnator an had a elect waterpump motor kit from summit,my ? is will it run cool with this setup?? so far no problems. it turns a lil slower than stock set up when you on the gass....but ive heard thats a good thing so as to not cavatate.im also running a new stock rad for a 85 audi 5000s that i cut a bigger opening for,externial oil cooler,an lovers ( allot!) hood. any advice would be great !!!
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Old 12-16-15, 02:51 PM
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forgot to say im running duel elect fans,1 pusher an 1 puller.
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Old 12-16-15, 03:15 PM
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You're running an electric WP but have no alternator. Just to verify, this means you run the car for very short periods and solely on battery power? This won't necessarily be an issue for short runs although I will mention that while a battery should nominally put out 12.6V most automotive systems like to see closer to ~14V; when running with constant drain and no charging system you're probably closer to 12V. You could potentially be having greatly reduced fuel flow as, generally speaking, fuel pumps are very sensitive to voltage drop.

You might want to reconsider running two fans as you are. Assuming you have good shrouding one fan is, more or less, limiting how much air flow you're getting. A puller with good shrouding is almost always the ideal way to do as far as cooling capability is concerned.

However, for short runs with lots of cooling off in between there shouldn't be an issue. Driving it on the street for periods of time...
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Old 12-16-15, 03:24 PM
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Many road race car cooling issues are actually air flow issues.

Some photos of the ducting between the grill and the radiator would be useful. 1) It is very important that all air going into the grill has no other place to go than the radiator; the area between the grill and the radiator must be completely sealed up.

2) An air dam or chin spoiler helps cooling out a lot. It makes higher air pressure in front of the radiator, and lower air pressure behind the radiator.

The slots in the hood wood work better if they were louvers, that stopped air from coming in, and directed air out from under the hood.

My 300hp road race RX-7 cools just fine without a fan, because I have employed the air flow tips 1 & 2 mentioned above.

Last edited by speedturn; 12-16-15 at 03:26 PM.
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Old 12-17-15, 06:01 AM
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yes the rad is seald off behind the grill an the opeinig is the same size as the grill is and my oil cooler is off to side and under as to not restric airflow to rad. had a gm altanator on it at first...wired up on a switch tha i could turn on an off when i want,but as my car idels at 2,200 when id turn on alt it would not want to idel an as its just a trak car i removed it an chargd by portible unit between races as ive done before with drag cars. was mainly wondering if anyone else has ran the elect motor setup on a waterpump an if so how well it workd.
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Old 12-17-15, 12:04 PM
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Thanks,will probly build a shroud a run just a puller.
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Old 12-17-15, 11:44 PM
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personally I would run an alternator. Drag racing might not be a problem, but I would not trust it on a road race.
Especially since you mentioned the water pump is not known to flow a lot. Its not that you need that much flow, but what will happen when the battery starts getting drained over the course of a race?

I see your hood is already cut. You can run a shroud to guide the air to the radiator and guide it out the top of the hood
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Old 12-18-15, 04:19 AM
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yea...not sure what im gonna do yet. the pump motor worked fine with the mg motor...but i know roatry create more heat. but tested it last month on track an had no problems without alt. avg run is 35 to 50 sec 6 times in a day so a good batery will hold up no problem,and i have a portible unit to charge it during lunch break.
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Old 12-18-15, 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by pacman1969 View Post
yea...not sure what im gonna do yet. the pump motor worked fine with the mg motor...but i know roatry create more heat. but tested it last month on track an had no problems without alt. avg run is 35 to 50 sec 6 times in a day so a good batery will hold up no problem,and i have a portible unit to charge it during lunch break.
If your goal is weight savings, I run a Ballistics battery in my car, it weighs 3lbs. So if you run that battery with an alternator, it will weigh similar or less to a full size lead acid battery. Or even lighter, run the 3lb battery with no alternator! 35 to 50 seconds is short
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Old 12-18-15, 09:11 AM
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An electric water pump produces a very low pressure. It will work OK for short periods of time. You're sacrificing longevity by using one. Your normal mechanical water pop will produce up to 40 PSI and cool the engine much more efficiently.

[IMG][/IMG]

Last edited by Barry Bordes; 12-18-15 at 09:13 AM.
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Old 12-18-15, 09:21 AM
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Just something I noticed. Yours tires are WAY WAY too wide for those wheels. That must handle very sloppy.
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Old 12-18-15, 09:31 AM
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Handel's good,whenu look it up it says 9 to 10 inch wheel,mine are 8.0......so I'm only an inch under.and there all I have at the moment......sometimes you have to priaortise when your funds are limited.
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Old 12-20-15, 12:23 AM
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I'm trying to figure out how you run Electronics on that car without an alternator.
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Old 12-20-15, 05:45 AM
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msd and good batery,and charge it mid day at races.
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Old 12-20-15, 06:20 AM
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but im thinking of going with a gm 1 wire so i can drive it to work some,work is only 1.2 miles away.before the alt was on a toggle an when i turnd it on the car wouldny idel verry well,with the one wire ill adjust idel acordingly as it would be on everytime it was started.
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Old 12-21-15, 12:40 AM
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I ran this set up on my Solo2 510 with no problems and no Alt.
I had a jump box for starting and running rad fan while in the pits/between runs/idleing.
Never once had an issue with low voltage. Even on a race track for a 20min session. (charged battery between sessions)

As far as the water pump. You can get different size pulleys and belts to spin the pump at the desired speed. They are very common. I had to get a bigger pulley (for the electric motor)then what it came with, to spin the pump faster. Also, no T-stat. Just the plate with the inners removed. So it was a plate with a hole/restrictor.
But once I did. My car ran 190deg ALL the time.
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Old 12-21-15, 12:49 AM
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One thing you have to remember is. Because the water pump is at a constant rpm. Warm up is different. I heard of guys running a switch with different voltages to the electric motor.
But I would just idle the motor with out the rad fan on. Till it was warm.
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Old 12-21-15, 05:15 AM
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thanks gian....most helpfull so far. but now i think im gonna put a gm 1 wire alt on it so i can play around town a bit an maby suprise an run a few ricers whos ***** have gotton a lil to big!should be fun as no one around here thik a roatry can make a fast pass.
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