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It a factory 5spd 84 rx7 pedal. CD009 Nissan trans. 6 puck spring clutch.
Seems to have plenty of throw. Its a T56 slave. Measured the installed slave height on install and it didn't need shimmed. Was within spec.
It drives and shifts fine. Just has diddly for travel. Maybe 1" between engaged vs disengaged and has a grabby clutch to boot.
Its bled really well.
Adjusting pedal height with master arm just changes where in the pedals travel engagement is. I have it at the middle of the pedal now. So I have like 2inches where it does nothing initially. maybe 1" where it disengages and then another 2" of travel to the floor where it does nothing.
How would one go about stretching the engagement out so its not such an on/off switch? Changing the pivot arm length maybe?
I increased the bore on the slave. You don’t need [as] much travel with a six puck. Iirc, There are couple of threads on this forum discussing this at length.
Anything one could try without separating the trans from the motor? Restriction in the slave line maybe? Longer master push rod? Smaller bore master would do something similar to a larger bore slave, no? Don't believe the slave cyl on these is something you can adjust.
Currently have a 3/4 bore master. Or I could attempt to use an OEM RX7 master maybe? Anyone know the bore on those? Rock auto looks to have them at 7/8? That seems odd, no?
Last edited by vxturboxv; May 8, 2025 at 12:12 PM.
Couldn't I just pull apart the 3/4 master and throw something in there to displace some fluid like a few washers or something. Wouldn't that do effectively be same thing as moving to a smaller cylinder? Displace less fluid per inch of pedal travel?
This is just the nature of puck clutches. They have a very narrow window of engagement. Some people actually like this, and find it easier to drive.
You didn't mention what engine is in it, but for years behind various bridge ported 13Bs, I ran a stock 12A pressure plate with a puck clutch. The light pedal is easy to modulate and it still had plenty of grip for 180 ft-lb or whatever my engines made.
Couldn't I just pull apart the 3/4 master and throw something in there to displace some fluid like a few washers or something. Wouldn't that do effectively be same thing as moving to a smaller cylinder? Displace less fluid per inch of pedal travel?
Adding "stuff" won't change anything, the bore is still the same, so the same amount of fluid will be displaced for the amount of stroke.
I'd try just getting used to it, if the engagement isn't on the floor then it takes little time to get a feel for it. If it IS on the floor, then a pressure plate with shorter fingers will bring the engagement window up to where it is biomechanically easier to modulate.
That's the other reason I liked the 12A pressure plates Light feel and the engagement point was nice. One of the worst I ever drove was the ACT super heavy duty pressure plate, that had super long fingers so you had to practically push your left foot through the bumper to get it to move enough to disengage. My knees can't do that sort of thing anymore and never really could to begin with...
One of the worst I ever drove was the ACT super heavy duty pressure plate.
+1 to that. its got heavy springs, and its like they played with the lever ratio so it wants more travel than stock.
it never felt like it disengaged fully, and pedal effort is too high too.
I also have the ACT extreme super heavy duty plate. It wasn’t useable as mentioned above until I replaced the hose to the slave with a steel braided overTeflon type. That made all the difference in getting the release point back to normal. I also put a roller bearing in the clutch arm for the slave push rod which substantially reduced the effort and improved my ability to modulate the clutch. Aside from the additional effort for the heavy plate, it otherwise feels pretty normal.
It is worth noting that, even with a heavy plate, a stock type disc would not hold, necessitating a puck type disc (or replacing the entire thing with a multi disc unit).
I'm aware how the puck clutches are. Drove lots of them for years. I had a 3 puck ACT 2900 setup on my TII rx-7 That was a total bastard! Few unsprung 4 pucks on my DSM's a well. But that's not the pedal feeling I'm having. Its not harsh engagement as much as instant engagement.
The 6 puck sprung 12" clutches actually aren't bad. Esp behind a car with tons of TQ with a relatively light pressure plate on it.
The OEM FB master made a HUGE difference. Almost no pedal pressure and shifted like butter. Buuut it didn't displace enough fluid to shift at any kind of RPM. Went back and did some more research. Found what I thought was a 3/4 master had a small .81 stamped on it. Guess all the Wildwood masters look the same and they just run different bores. So I was running a 13/16 bore master. This was the problem... So after changing the master a 3rd time with the correct .75 bore. It shifts smoothly and isn't an on/off switch.
As usual, it was simply something I overlooked. Previous owner told me it was a 3/4 master and I didn't realize he installed a 13/16 instead.
Thanks for the input all.
If anyone needs a factory FB master or a big **** 13/16 master super cheap hit me up! lol
Last edited by vxturboxv; Jul 7, 2025 at 09:52 AM.
Light feel and the engagement point was nice. One of the worst I ever drove was the ACT super heavy duty pressure plate, that had super long fingers so you had to practically push your left foot through the bumper to get it to move enough to disengage. My knees can't do that sort of thing anymore and never really could to begin with...
