diyman25

My car is SCCA ITE car so I dont have min weight to follow . but seen to be I almost got any thing but the car still weight too much compare to similar rx7 in my region. some of them weight like 2000!!.

I have done following. remove the bumper support. remoe side impact support. remove dash, sun roof, carpet, tar. wiring harness. turbo, intake manifold. intercooler, light weight seat.( my car is 13B PP)
thing will be done. change rear hatch to lexan. cut more material off from door(or chage to fiber grass door). fiber grass hood. I really cant think any now

I also wonder what are the every one's race car weight

Silkworm

I assume you installed a cage right? Is that 2256 with a cage? If so, you're doing pretty good. My car with 1/4 tank weighs 2450

2nd gens weighing 2000 lbs without extensive body panel replacement?

PaulC

Travis R

Fuel cell?

diyman25

yes the 2256 with roll cage, but without fuell cell

Silkworm

You're doing great then. Without replacing body panels or lexan, I don't see much else you can do.

PaulC

skunks

hole saw

88IntegraLS

Light flywheel? (It's 15ish pounds savings)

How about the undercoat inside the wheel wells and on the underside of the chassis? Speaker mounts in the rear strut towers? Exhaust heat shields on the front underside of the chassis (assuming your header is heat wrapped)? And of course, all the towing brackets which you probably already have removed.

23Racer

Man I dream of getting mine down below 2350. I have done everything that you have, including lexan rear hatch, bumper supports, tow hooks, no sound deadening or undercoating, lightened flywheel, no dash etc...., but the lowest I have weighed the car is 2435 lbs with 1/8th of a tank of gas. It must be all in the cage as I can't see much more I can remove without devouring the car with a hole saw.

In my series I have to weigh 2540 lbs with driver, so to get close to that weight I need to loose 90 lbs (not in this life) or start removing parts of my cage. I think that you are doing great to get in the mid 2250 range. The cars that are 2000 lbs I would have to guess are severely lightened with fibreglass or missing most of the internal unibody support bracketry.

EProdRx7

My car is 2370 with me in the car and I'm 160 and I have 130 lbs of balast bolted to the floor, do the math it is possible

diyman25

I always wonder about putting a fiber grass wide body? will that really save weight ? I know it is much lighter than your stell panel and you can much wider tires EP seen ok but the one use in solo BP or FP it look just too wide ?, and dont you have to put much bigger and tires too i think this will add more weight than you are saving and more drag , because I am using 245 hoosier on my car it seen be over kill for the power I put on the ground.
and for the rear hatch how much u can really save over there. I think you can save around 25 lb, but there is one guy told me you can save up 70 lb!!!

Hamza734

Correct me if I'm wrong, but dosen't IT only allow street-ports? 2250 seems like a good weight, especially with a BEASTLY engine like a P-port....

~Hakan

Hamza734

Fiberglass, not fiber grass

Corksport offers a Lexan rear windshield which should probably save ~30 lbs.

http://www.corksport.com/main.php3?p...3Fcat%3D214912

Silkworm

IT doesn't allow any ports.

ITE is usually a run what you brung class out here in California, so he'll probably be ok.

PaulC

Speed Raycer

Which wheels are you running? It might be time to drop some cash and get some diamonds/panasports etc.

Have you checked out the factory support brackets on various body panels? I know the 1st gens have a couple of lbs under the front nose panel. Only reason I know this is because I got one as a spare and the spot welds had rusted away causing the supports to dissappear. That panel is significantly lighter than the one on the car.

Alum. fuel lines?

Travis R

You'd be crazy to pay someone that much for a Lexan rear hatch. Call up any local plastics supplier, and a piece of polycarbonate big enough to do the back window is about $60.