Blake

Insurance on an old pickup truck is about nothing. Filling up both tanks once would cost more than insurance for 6 months as a secondary, recreational-use, low-miles vehicle. Anyway, you don't need to keep it active full time. Call your agent on Friday to activate it, then call him back on Monday to inactivate it. Rinse and repeat. You only pay for the days you use it. While you're at it, suspend your daily driver insuarance for the weekend, so you are not paying for two vehicles even for a couple days a week. I used to do this all the time. Your agent will get annoyed, but it serves them right for insuring cars rather than people (how many cars can you drive at one time?).

Blake

Oh, and -- not to harp too much on it -- one other thing to consider is security. All trailers are targets for thieves, but doubly (or perhaps tripply) so for aluminum trailers. If you don't have a very secure location to store your trailer, an aluminum one might walk away on you.

As for justifying a trailer and truck to your wife, refer to the combo as your "tow rig" (one entity). Afterall, that is the truth; a trailer with a tractor. The cost of an aluminum trailer buys you a steel trailer that tows itself.

Anyway, if you do buy an aluminum trailer and use the Trail Blazer to tow it...good for you! Aluminum trailers are great (if expensive) and I'm sure the lower weight will help make the SUV adequate for the task. At least you will be making an informed decision.

redrotorR1

Just because I'm partial .... and these trucks kick *** for towing and general driving-around-town fun.

http://www.nloc.net/forum/showthread.php?threadid=70991

http://www.nloc.net/forum/showthread.php?threadid=65524

http://www.nloc.net/forum/showthread.php?threadid=70004


-Don

cpa7man

iTrader: (2)

I don't think you can to this for very long in Texas. If that was the case I could insure my FD for weekends and uninsure my DD for the same time. I don't have my Group 1 license but I don't think the state laws permit. I have a 77 F-150 that I've had on and off and back on,(over the last 24 years) but as I recall I had to "explain".

Blake

You might want to check with the authorities to see if that is really true or just something your insurance company wants you to believe. Here in Washington State, with Farmers, I pay $1 per month for vehicles I have a policy on but are "inactive" (meaning I don't have to go in and sign paperwork to reactivate it; I just make a phone call).

rceron

Well, preliminary discussions seems to indicate that we will be getting a new car. A "larger" suv I guess. The "older" F150 (and the like) were good ideas but not practical as we own a townhouse in a community and it woud be hard to deal with several car AND a trailer.

Actually, my biggest dilemma is where to put the trailer when not in use. I may just use UHAUL for 2004 and figure some things out for next year.

thanks for all the responses.

Ramon

CrispyRX7

iTrader: (139)

Ramon,
My thought about your trailer dilemma. One we hard core track junkies have all faced at some point in time. I Had been borrowing a trailer for a year before finding a used trailer last year that I bought. But to your questions. I would not be overly concerned with brakes of the tow vehicle. Tandem axle trailers (which you will need) in almost all states, by law, require brakes. These are controlled by a electronic brake controller (Tekonsha makes some decent affordable controllers) in the tow vehicle. The trailer does it's own braking if the controller is set correctly.
Hp of the tow vehicle will not necessarily dictate it's towing capacity. It's primarily the drivetrain and suspension that dictate the capacity. And as some one alluded I wouldn't exceed 80% of the rated capacity if possible but it won't really cause the vehicle to spontaneosuly expire if you do. It will more than likely just reduce longevity. However for a once a month tow of a few hundred miles I would see the net effect as next to negligable on the life of the vehicle. But regarding the tow vehicle, as you would expect, the heavier the vehcile the more stable to tow but also consider a vehicle with a longer wheelbase will also be more stable. For comparison I tow with the wifes '99 Dodge Durango (w/ 5.9L) and a good friend tows with a '00 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Virtually identical drivetrains but with the Jeeps much shorter wheelbase his vehicle tends to bob and weave much more so than the Durango does. As a whole though any vehicle IMO witha towing capcity of at least 6000lbs will be just fine to tow any FD on a generic steel trailer. If you are buying another SUV be sure to get the factory installed towing package if possible though. An aftermarket tow hitch will not necessarily suffice. A factory installed tow package will most often consist of a bigger radiator, a transmission cooler, and a larger alternator to handle the added electrical loads of a trailer. The vehcile will also most likely come prewired for the brake controller saving you much time and effort. So make sure the tow package is a factory option and not a dealer installed aftermarket option...they are not the same.
As for trailers, an open deck steel trailer will be just fine. I looked at AL trailers but just couldn't justify the more than double the price - $4000+ vs $1600 (I paid $700 for my 1 year old used trailer BTW so the deals are out there) As someone noted watch the fender height to ensure you can open the car doors. If it's a problem just use 2 x8's under the cars wheels when the car is loaded to give you a few more inches of height to clear the doors. Try and get the longest ramps you can. Sometimes this isn't possible so some makeshift "cheater" ramps made out of 2x8's might be necessary to get the car started up the trailer ramps.
Towing a steel trailer can be tricky if the car is not positioned correctly. It's imperative to get the tongue weight correct. In some cases a sway controller (like I use) will help. This is a $100 friction bar setup bolted between trailer and vehicle hitch. If positioning the car is troublesome a load leveler hitch will eliminate this problem. They go for about $300 but are worth the money. For a small trailer with a relatively light car, like us, I don't think it's necessary but I see many folks using them.
In short my vote would be for a slightly bigger new SUV purchase and a generic steel trailer. That way the "family" gets a newer nicer car, and you get your trailer with minimal fuss from the spouse. Invest the extra $3k saved when buying a steel trailer (vs the AL jobbie) into buying the nicer newer more capable SUV.

Crispy

Rx7carl

We have a 3/4 ton Silverado (2000) with the factory tow package. My trailer (steel open deck) weighs 1600 lbs and the car is 2400. Tows like a dream, cant hardly tell its there. With the super brakes on it, stopping has never been a problem. But I would like to add electric brakes to the trailer for added saftey. Anyone know of a kit to retrofit it? The F150 4x4 we used to use for towing had horrible brakes. Made for some not so fun adventures in towing. I'm also thinking of stripping off the steel deck and replacing it with aluminum to save some weight. And then maybe making it into an enclosed trailer for security and to have a place to escape the weather.

The comment on having a good suspension (heavy duty) and a trans cooler and good brakes on your tow vehicle is good advice. Also the longer the wheelbase on the tow vehicle, the less sway youll encounter on the road. And getting the toungue weight right is critical to having a good tow. Too far back and itll sway like a bitch.

Blake

Perhaps it is ironic, considering my advice to go with an old F250 (I never liked old F150s for towing), but my personal plan is to build an ultra-light, compact 5th wheel or gooseneck for my '75 Rotary Truck. Short wheelbase towing of a tag-along trailer, I agree, sucks. However, with a gooseneck or 5th wheel approach, all the weight and moments are over the rear axle of the tow vehicle. In this configuration, you set it up for a lot of tounge weight because it's just like having a load in the bed itself, rather than hanging on a lever (mechanical advantage) behind the vehicle. As such, the wheels of the trailer are actually set way back, so the door clearance is not a factor either. Whatever bed space I loose, will be made up for in the part of the trailer over the tounge, where I'll have a tire rack and other storage. On top of all this, the overall length of the towing rig is shorter since you are overlapping the tongue and the bed, plus your manouverability is greatly enhanced (truck can turn 90 degrees or more, relative to the trailer, when pulling into or out of tight spots). Further, I intend to make a removable frame for a custom tarp cover for the trailer. Soft-sided enclosed trailers are very popular in Europe (on semis and such), where weight is such a factor. I would have to remove it to load the car on or off, but it would be worth the extra effort, I believe (and I can just leave it off, for short trips or whatever).

The rotary truck is, believe it or not, rated 3/4 ton capacity; only the wheelbase and low mass make it bad for towing. A 5th wheel or goosneck would solve those problems, just as it does for towing massive campers behind standard trucks. Power, as someone mentioned is not a huge factor, except in climing hills quickly. Obviously the Rotary Truck does not have a lot of power, but it does have low gearing and shouldn't be bad with a really light trailer (think power-to-weight). Also, I am running a lightly streetported 2nd gen 6-port engine with aftermarket fuel injection, so power is considerably more than stock. I might also consider a turbo upgrade.

When not using the tow rig, I plan to park the truck on the trailer.

While unconventional, I don't think it's whacky or unsound...at least not as whacky and unsound as my previous tow rig!

http://www.rx-sevenandahalf.com

DaveB

Ramon,

Search the local trading papers, race shops and car club sites.

5 years or so ago, I bought a 14' Trailex aluminum trailer for $600. It is old(1968), but you would never know it by looking at it. It weighs 400 pounds, and I can move it around the yard by hand. I had been looking for one for some time, and knew I would find one if I was patient. It is rated at 3500 pounds, has hydraulic surge brakes, and has been all over the midwest as well as to the keys a few times, as well as other points on vacation trips.

I have towed it with a 2500 pound car on it with everything from a 2.8 litre Blazer to a 35' motorhome and have found it to be the best towing trailer I have ever encountered. As compared to the enclosed race trailer, it is the best but can't haul everything I need to take along.

Be patient, keep looking, you won't be disappointed with one of those trailers.

Dave

ArcWelder

I basically came to the same conclusion. I ended up buying a new SUV last year, a 2004 VW Touareg V8. It performed perfectly on the single event I've used it so far. Trailer I purchased new. It's an 18' steel, open (closed deck), dual axle, electric brakes, 15" wheels, fenders are low enough to clear a lowered FD. It's made by Top Brand and was about $1700.

Your idea of renting a UHAUL may be a good one. It would allow you to see if you really want to tow your car to the track without having to make a big initial investment. It also solves the problem of where to store a trailer.

Mark

23Racer

I don't know how it is in the States, but in Canada U-Haul won't even rent me a small garden utility trailer (3'x5') to pull behind my Explorer. They have a very long list of vehicles that they wont let any trailer to be pulled by and most SUV's/ Sedans are on that list.

I complained to Ford of Canada and had a buddy of mine that owns a Ford dealership look into it. My Explorer has a 7500 lb. towing capacity and a Class IV hitch and pulls my 18' open trailer with no issues. Basically U-Haul wont rent a trailer to many vehicles, regardless of manufacturers recommended towing capacity, as their lawyers have deemed a tremendous number of vehicles "high risk" and those vehicles are out of luck. Ford, GM and Chrysler are smoking mad but are unwilling to bring up the issue due to consumer perception issues. They also think that U-Haul is just trying to increase their occasion income by renting a truck and trailer. Just check with U-Haul before you need a trailer to see if you can even rent one with your tow vehicle.

DriveFast7

iTrader: (1)

I'm concerned about the REPU's 10" solid discs and small 1st gen brake pads up front. Drums in rear. And low torque. Smaller tires. Later this year I'll be working on a vented 9.8" front disc set with 4 piston calipers for REPU up front and some sort of rear discs.

REPU 4.625 does signifigantly increase torque multiplication but I'm suspicious if that will make up for it's mabye 130 ft lbs of torque.

My REPU tires are the biggest and have the highest load capacity I can get on the front without lifting the truck. 235/60/14. On the rear I can put some 245/60/14 to get a little more traction and load rating, not much.

I tow my rx7 with my 99 Amigo V6 and am very familiar with using a tow vehicle that is marginal. Amigo's wheelbase is 7" shorter than REPU so I will look forward to longer wheelbase. And bigger trunk. And better gearing. But 1" smaller diameter brakes

SPiN Racing

One thing you may want to think of Ramon that I didnt see in teh reading I did of this thread.. (I didnt get into too much detail on the what vehicle to buy threads)

IF you get a aluminum trailer.. YES it saves weight.. YES it will not rust.

BUT..

If you get a steel trailer.. like the many I have borrowed etc. (Still need to get around to buying my own) There are a LOT of places that sell a Double axle steel setup with trailer brakes for around 1200.00 in the central Florida Tampa bay area.. I imagine there have to be some near you that make them.

ALso.... IF you get a steel trailer.. and need to add a Tire rack later.. you can either do it yourself, or have a friend weld up a frame to hold the tires in no time with a Stick or Mig welder. No need to worry about Tiging it together. Just hit Home Depot/Lowes and buy the steel and zip it together.

rceron

In two weeks I'll be doing my typical 8 hr drive from NJ to VIR for the Mazdadrivers event. I'm renting a UHAUL trailer, which presumably will weigh a ton, literally. I'll pull with the 99 Trailblazer, rated at 5000 lbs., and see how it goes.

I'll make my decision based on the experience and also from what I glean from conversations in the paddock area.

I also found a lot/storage place that will store my trailer (which ever one) for $50 / month. Hoping to bring that cost down but at least I have a solution.

Ramon

DriveFast7

iTrader: (1)

U-haul trailers are pigs. super heavy, handle crummy. the tow hitch is too high which makes the nose of the trailer dip down and makes trailer wiggle and reduces braking effectiveness.

and the ramp design eats up airdams on low cars for breakfast@!@

Your Trailblazer should handle it fine considering my *stock* 99 Amigo V6 towed one over the Grapevine, but it was a little scary thru the turns.

jrx13

iTrader: (3)

Yeah UHAUL trailers suck! I remeber renting one! Anyway I bought a steel trailer with a wood deck. It weighs about the same as an aluminum (1500 lbs.) and the price was way cheaper! Cheaper than a steel deck. Its cheap and it works! Used it at least 10 times to go to the track and never had a problem. Did I mention it was cheap?!?!

DriveFast7

iTrader: (1)

Wooden decks warp and chip after a few years but yeah they are cheap.

I was looking at one by Carson Trailers, name brand. Brand new the wood was splitting and knot holes.

Fatman0203

I had one, with the humidity down here in Florida. It took about 4 years before I had to replace the wood, but that was partially my fault due to the height of one of the trucks I used for a while causing the planks to flew to much.

Beast From The East

I'm hoping the participants in this thread are still around. I've come to the conclusion (with the assistance of the local police) that my car is no longer suited for use on the public highway. You gotta love California and CARB (my distain for that group knows no limits). However, my loss is also my gain, for now I can devote my modded single turbo 3rd gen to track only use (wife gave blessing). If I plow it into a wall, just bang it back out and don't worry about it any more.....(that's what frame straighteners, hammers, and fiberglass or carbon fiber body panels are for, right?).

So, I will also be pursuing acquisition of a "tow rig". I have calls into my State Farm agent for coverage options for the race car (minimum coverage for theft, fire, that sort of thing) and also cover my trailer and "new" daily driver tow vehicle. Fortunately I drive very few miles between home and work, and I was doing all my driving with the modded 3rd gen, so I'm used to lousy milage. I also have rental properties and have been using our Sable wagon as our 'hauling' car, so the addition of the truck solves a couple of other problems. I'm viewing this as an opportunity vs. a problem, really. Hell, every man should own a dedicated track car once in his life, yes?

I'm resurrecting this thread to see if anything has changed in the last couple of years. Are their dedicated web sites or vendors for folks selling their two rigs/used race trailers? I've done some Googling and found a few things, but nothing that offers affordable one-stop shopping (except for really nice stuff, like 50' rigs with living quarters, etc). Since I'm considered a 'beginner', my plan was to invest just the minimum to get me to High Performance Driving Events and other club events, then if I like it get into serious car modification to run in specific classes for sanctioned events. I currently do have a Mazdacomp account and do drag racing, and plan to do a mix of road track, autocross, and drag. Being in Sac you have Thunderhill, Laguna Seca, and Sears Point all within 4.5 hours drive, Stockton one hour south for autocross, and Sac raceway locally for drag racing, so I'm set up well. Just need to get more advice from the veterans out there who can help me avoid reinventing the wheel.

I was thinking a mid-sized V8 rated to two 7k to provide some head room for actually towing ~ 5k (the car, the trailer, and equipment like tires, race gas, brake pads/rotors, jacks and stands, misc. tools to do quick track repairs/maintenance, etc.).

So, who's got more input on this subject?

thx.

Beast

1wide7

iTrader: (1)

i use a 96 dodge ram 1500 with the 5.9L to pull my dual axle open trailor with a wooden deck it does the job for me

Beast From The East

Wow, just re-read my message. Allow me to translate that "two" = "tow".....

SHPNOUT

iTrader: (3)

Chevy Tahoe, 2000 model year, old body style.....z71 suspension. 5.7 liter v-8. You can get them cheap............especially that now as the 07's are out and they are bullet proof, cheap and easy to maintain. It will be a good driver for daily use, very comfy, but plenty of grunt...

I use it to haul my enclosed 24 ft trailer, over 7k lbs....and while I would not reccommend this much weight as it is over the Max, it does just fine.
It was better than perfect with my 800 lb open trailer and street/Track 2650lb FD........Didn't even know it was there.

Funny, now my trailer is heavier and my FD is lighter.

Good luck.
Niles

wlfpkrcn

I used to use a 1990 RamCharger with a 318cid. It did ok. The short wheel base was a drag. You had to get the tongue weight right otherwise the trailer would sway. A Suburban or similar vehicle would work ok. When I first started racing I tried using my wifes Cherokee. That was a huge mistake. I almost wiped out the truck, trailer and car. Basically the trailer started to bounce and picked up the rear wheels and everything started to swap ends. I could read the decals on the side of the car . Needless to say I had to clean my shorts and bought a bigger truck.
FYI- I had a Big Tex tandem axle trailer. The car was a Pro7.

speedturn

iTrader: (1)

For about 4 years, I used an open trailer, single axle; pulled by a 1985 Ford E-250 diesel (not turbo.) The empty trailer weighed 1200 pounds, plus the 2200# race car, plus ramps, plus 250 pounds tires = about 3700 pounds towing weight. It did real well, pulled easy, and got about 12 mpg. With the big full sized van, I could put all my stuff in the van and not worry about it getting stolen at motels or restaurants.
Then I bought a Pace 22' enclosed trailer. It weighs 2900 pounds empty, + 2080# race car weight, + 300# tires, +180# pit motorcycle + 1000# of tools, spares, etc. adds up to 6500 pounds towed weight. The 1985 non-turbo diesel van could barely pull it, partly from the extra weight and also due to the much more aero drag of the big enclosed trailer. Fuel mileage dropped to about 8 mpg, and average cruising speed dropped to around 60 mph because the hills slowed it down alot. Then I bought a 1991 Ford F-250 diesel with an aftermarket ATI turbo on it to pull the Pace 22 foot enclosed trailer. Cruising speed picked up 10 mph to 70 mph, AND the fuel economy increased 20%, from 8 mpg to 10 mpg. An even more modern electronically injected turbo diesel will get even better mpg. A low drag Vee nose trailer will get better mpg. A gasoline engine truck will get worse mpg.

We save on motel bills by living in the trailer at the track, so that makes up for the extra fuel costs of towing the enclosed trailer versus an open trailer, plus the extra security of stuff not getting stolen, plus I don't have to unpack right away when I get home, plus I have secure storage at home too. Enclose trailers are nice if you can afford one. Another big plus is that they have good resale value.

Electric brakes are a must on any car hauler trailer. You never know when you will have to do a panic stop. I tow about 2500 miles a year, and stuff happens.