rceron

I've decided that I need an auto (open) trailer to take my FD to track events. Since I have a relatively small/medium sized SUV I was told to get an aluminum trailer. However, in speaking with a dealer he stated that a typical 16ft steel trailer weighs about 1600 lbs while an alum one weighs about 1200 lbs.

Given the huge cost differential it doesn't seem worth it.

I know the alumin. shouldn't rust so that is a definitely plus.

Is there anything I'm missing (info) regarding this matter so I can make an educated decision?

Does anyone know someone selling an alum trailer on the East coast?

thanks for any input.

Ramon

redrotorR1

First and foremost, are you sure your SUV can tow? Most small/midsize SUV's don't have the brakes to handle big loads ... like a a car hauler and a race car. I would be very careful about dancing around the tow capacity on most of these SUV's.

There's a lot to think about. Aluminum is really nice and I would recommend it, if your expenses can afford it. You'd be surprised how much a difference 400-600 lbs makes on your gas mileage and general wear-and-tear.

If you get an open bed car hauler, you can shave a couple hundred pounds that way also. Generally speaking, it's a better idea to get dual axles ... but if the car is light enough, a single axle trailer can suffice. A 2700 lb FD is pushing it on a single axle, IMO.

Otherwise, some things you'll want to consider is MUCH lower fenders ... especially for lowered cars. If your car is that low, you may want to sacrifice the dove tail for some looooooooooong ramps. You may also want to consider a tire rack for your rains and a tool box. Although I enjoy the smell of rubber inside the car, your loved ones may not. A winch is definitely something worth considering if possible. Ideally, you'd never use it ... but .. **** happens. Last but definitely not least, you may want to think a load-leveling hitch. It's not a necessary item, but it will make sharp turns and heavy winds a little less dramatic.

This stuff adds up quick, so don't get suckered. I would also check around and see if you can find someone's well pulled trailer for sale. Good luck.

-Don

Fatman0203

Ya what car you got first? The problem is not pulling its stopping. When one of those ricers in their CRX with a 5 inch tips jumps out of a ricer shop infront of you, thats when the test holds.

cpa7man

iTrader: (2)

I've got an 18' dual axle steel trailer(steel deck), tire rack & winch. I pull an 2200 # 1st gen. 2 sets of tires and a bunch of gear with a Dodge Durango 4.7L with TT package. I do pull it sometimes with a Suburban, the additional TT capacity is nice. It's also got about 50 HP on the Durango.

I agree with redrotor if you can shave 400# it will help a lot. My truck works hard to hold speed going up hills. I would love an AL trailer but at $1350 for the 18' steel car hauler it's hard to justify. Most of the dual axle car haulers come with electric brakes. I find stopping not to be an issue. The Durango stops it almost as good as the Suburban. Anyway be sure your trailer has brakes on it. Allow extra weight for passengers, fuel, tires and gear when you calculate your total tow weight.

rceron

Great info guys. Definitely looking for an open trailer. I have a suspicion that my SUV won't do. Basicallly, it's 1999 Trailblazer. It is rated for 5000 lbs of towing. My FD weighs 2850 (wet). But if I add my other set of tires and a tool box full of stuff then I could easily add another 200 lbs.

I didn't realize that ~400 lbs of towing weight would make a huge difference while driving. As you can tell I have never really towed anything. I definitely like the idea of dual axles--going with the safety theme, external tire rack and box (miscell. tools, etc.).

Thanks for the tip on low fenders. Having a trailer with the inability to open doors would be too annoying.

As far as used trailers, all I've seen is www.racingjunk.com

Any additional input would be great.

thanks,

Ramon

Fatman0203

Trailblaze with a v6 and 4 wheel disc should be good, with such a deal. I would class the Trailblazer the same as the f-150s, which can handle such a load. I saw a 2003 f-150 this past weekend towing a porsche (full) and 8 tires, tools etc etc.

bros0000

You might, but Ford wouldn't. Sure you're not thinking of the Ranger? F-150 has a towing capacity of 9500 lbs.

9500 > 5000

tims

I used to tow with my 93 2wd Explorer. it was a gutless pig but it hauled my 2000# RX2 race car, my 2200# FC race car, and a rolling chassis late model stock car @2000# with relative ease(not at the same time). slow up the hills with no A/C, but it made it to the track everytime without any breakdowns for 3-4 years. I would be sure to get a trailer with dual axles and electric trailer brakes, and make sure they're in good working order for those downhills and panic stops. The trailblazer should be fine, if slow. the trailer is a better way to take the car to the track no matter what is pulling it. now my new F350 will pull at 80mph with the A/C and stop fine with or without the trailer brakes.

Blake

Why not buy a cheap but indestructable dedicated tow vehicle? I bought a 1970 Ford F250 Camper Special (towing gears, dual tanks, big block) for all of $750. Towing was effortless. When I ran out of use for it a couple years later, I sold it for...$750. I see them all the time in the Nickel Ads and similar classified. Kind of nice to have a beater truck around, too, for trips to the dump or for hauling greasy car parts. Just a thought...

Fatman0203

True my dad just got a 1985 F-250 4x4 Disiel for 1500$!!! A?C worked too.
Body is pretty bad though ! =p and needs a new clutch, thats right its manual! (4 speed) !

rceron

I guess it's the Trailblazer and alumin trailer.

I've thought of buying a much older truck to tow, but I tend to need to drive 4-8 hrs from NJ to the tracks I go to. So, getting a truck that is not 100% reliable would be defeating my original intentions--not to drive the RX7 many miles after a hard weekend in which anything coud break on it and leave me stranded.

thanks again for the help.

R

redrotorR1

For a cheap tow vehicle, I would look for a early-to-mid 90's F-150 with the 351 Windsor motor. I guarantee that you will have zero problems towing with that truck and the brakes are sufficient to stop for your application. Or find a Gen1 Lightning (351, E4OD tranny, 4.10 rear end) ... which is essentially a 3/4 ton truck stuffed into a 1/2 ton chassis. I went ahead and splurged a little for Gen1 Lightning .... pulls a Big Tex trailer (~1800lbs) + my Z06 (~3000lbs) + tools, rain tires, etc. with ease. If you plan on making longer trips, diesels kick ***.

Oh, and a tip for while your towing. Make sure you turn off overdrive when going up hills. Your transmission will thank you later.

-Don

rceron

Is this a good deal?



$4400:

The Standard Features

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
5500# GVWR
36" BEAVERTAIL
6" TALL FRONT RAIL
EXTRUDED ALUMINUM FLOOR
ELECTRIC BRAKES - BOTH AXLES
3500# TORSION TANDEM AXLES
FULL FLOOR DESIGN
2" x 5" REINFORCED MAINS
81" FLOOR WIDTH
ALL ALUMINUM FRAME
RADIAL TIRES
TRIPLE MAIN DESIGN
SEALED CLEARANCE LIGHTS
16" CROSSMEMBERS
4 RECESSED D-RINGS
2 5/16" A-FRAME COUPLER
60" RAMPS
TRIPLE TONGUE DESIGN
WIRE GROMMETS

http://aluminumtrailer.com/php/produ...lers/index.php

R

Blake

Those old trucks (pre-'73 F250s) are more reliable than you imagine! You just can't kill them, in my experience. Understressed big block V8, simple ignition and fuel systems...nothing high-tech or complicated. Change the oil, toss in a Pertronix electronic ignition upgrade (~$90), rebuild the carb (if necessary) and do compression/leakdown tests for peace of mind and you're ready to haul cross country.

For the added cost of an aluminum trailer, you would have a free, dedicated tow vehicle that could pull a steel trailer up the side of a cliff. If it did break (very unlikely), it is either cheaply/quickly fixed or completely disposable...unlike, I suspect, your daily driver.

I would worry far more about the reliability of your Trailblazer, pulling a trailer than I would about a vehicle that was designed specifically for towing (the "Camper Special" or similar) and proven virtually indestructable. I've towed with small block V8 half-ton pickups and it just sucks comparred to a heavy-duty big block or diesel truck with towing gears. I can't imagine using a smallish SUV for hauling any sort of distance!

Just my $0.02, so spend accordingly.

redrotorR1

Sounds about standard price. For frame of reference, you can get a steel trailer with everything listed there for about 1/2 that price.

You may want to give these guys a call -
http://www.deandetrailers.com/

I've heard very good things about their trailers, and they are very simpathetic to your weight reduction needs.

-Don

rceron

Thanks, Don. Gotta keep doing research.

95MX6

2850lbs (car) + 1600lbs (steel trailer) + 150lbs (set of wheels and tires) + 100lbs (tools) = 4700lbs even with an aluminium trailer it's still 4300lbs and this doesn't count passenger weight or misc stuff. Given the length of your towing I wouldn't use the trailblazer, for short drives it would be fine but driving it for 2+ hours at freeways speeds will shorten the life of the transmission. Believe it or not but an older truck designed for towing will be more reliable than your trailblazer. Hmm maybe a transmission cooler would help. I wouldn't trust anything towing 80%+ of it's maximum load for more than an hour or two, and 8 hours is asking for trouble.

rceron

Oh no, say it ain't so.

Not only do I have to convince my wife we need a trailer, but another truck as well.

rceron

Oh no, say it ain't so.

Not only do I have to convince my wife we need a trailer, but another truck as well.

rceron

Oh no, say it ain't so.

Not only do I have to convince my wife we need a trailer, but another truck as well.

tims

a dedicated tow vehicle with over capacity is nice but the trailblazer will tow fine. You just cannot hammer it like you can a 3/4 or 1 ton truck. my Explorer had 40,000 miles towing at or near its load capacity. It didn't go fast up or down hills but it never broke down either. I think the aluminum trailer is nice but I wouldn't pay double for it. a simple steel trailer can be had for under $2K and a nice one setup for a race car for $2500. mine weighs 2000# dry and has a 7000# capacity and I bought it new for $1800. that might be an easier sell to the wife.

sctty

FWIW, I know a guy who has towed his SpecRX7 (~2500 lbs) on a steel open deck trailer (15', not sure of weight) with a Trail Blazer for the past two years with no issues. Typical distance round trip is probably 100 miles, over a nice mix of flat and hilly roads.

I'd agree that the transmission seems like it would be weak point in these mid size SUV's. Probably sound advice regarding the limited use of over drive while towing.

cpa7man

iTrader: (2)

I agree. The Trailbazer has a 265 hp engine if I'm not mistaken. Unless you tow up some huge hills it should be fine with a steel or AL trailer. Someone above mentioned trans cooler. For me having a truck around just to pull a trailer is not practical. I need my tow vehicle to be a daily driver. Insurance will eat you up. Soon I'll have 4 drivers in the family.

95MX6

The 1999 Trailblazer has 190hp 4.3L V6.

cpa7man

iTrader: (2)

My bad....I was thinking the newer one.