Car died at VIR on monday. Time to start the LSx project
03-04-10, 05:31 PM
#26
I was about to say the same thing. What do your plugs look like? How much coolant in the combustion chambers? Like Fritz said, could be an ignition issue. Most of the time the ignition stuff will run for a minute or two when they are cold before they cut out. Could be a primary coil gone bad.
03-04-10, 07:12 PM
#27
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I've had multiple cars w/ coolant issues and when it's bad you drop in new plugs to get it started and it runs until you shut it off or decide to turn it off when the temp needle's in the red. When it's really bad it'll blow coolant out of the exhaust like black rain but continue to run 
03-04-10, 07:32 PM
#28
I speak form limited experience but that does not look like coolant seal failure to me, I had one and my car would keep running until it just overheated itselff off. I wish I could make it to VIR this year, maybe towards the fall I can get a run in there.
03-04-10, 09:30 PM
#29
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I was about to say the same thing. What do your plugs look like? How much coolant in the combustion chambers? Like Fritz said, could be an ignition issue. Most of the time the ignition stuff will run for a minute or two when they are cold before they cut out. Could be a primary coil gone bad.
I've had multiple cars w/ coolant issues and when it's bad you drop in new plugs to get it started and it runs until you shut it off or decide to turn it off when the temp needle's in the red. When it's really bad it'll blow coolant out of the exhaust like black rain but continue to run
03-04-10, 09:45 PM
#30
JefeFD/Jordan Innovations
We almost got him! He's slipping back to the light side...
Regarding the 'drive a LSX FD first' advice, I completely agree. The weight in the front isn't immediately noticeable, but the transmission/shifter is... that's the price you pay for something that won't let go the first time you slam into second with 500ft-lbs. Its a rough shift, but once you get used to man-handling it, it's perfectly fine for road course work. Everything else is very similar as long as you did a good job on the swap (clutch, on/off throttle manners, etc).
Regarding the 'drive a LSX FD first' advice, I completely agree. The weight in the front isn't immediately noticeable, but the transmission/shifter is... that's the price you pay for something that won't let go the first time you slam into second with 500ft-lbs. Its a rough shift, but once you get used to man-handling it, it's perfectly fine for road course work. Everything else is very similar as long as you did a good job on the swap (clutch, on/off throttle manners, etc).
03-05-10, 09:55 AM
#32
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When i start it up now, i get white/gray exhaust for the 2 minutes it runs before shutting down, but it's not billowing out, it looks like normal startup exhaust to me.
03-05-10, 10:33 AM
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yeah i have it running kind of rich to keep it safe. I really wish i wasn't so busy with work right now because i'd be out in the garage looking it all over.
03-06-10, 12:44 PM
#39
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I think it's totally worth the money. It has great shock absorption, mounts very solid, and can swivel around in a 100 different configurations to get the camera just right. It has served me well for 5 years or so with standard camcorders and now the flip.
03-06-10, 01:09 PM
#40
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OK serious feedback now...
-A test drive is a good idea, just so you know what you're in for. That said, there's simply no comparable in terms of engine performance. For a rotary to make the same power requires either a single turbo or a 20B. In the former case the torque curve of an NA v8 is much easier to drive. In the latter, maintenance gets expensive quickly and the rest of the powertrain starts to suffer particularly transmissions (the one thing torque isn't good for).
-I agree that the t56 trans is a brute, it's one of the few downsides but it's easily managed and offers few surprises. That said, the FD isn't exactly s2000 trans caliber in the feel department either.
-There are really only two weaknesses to the lsx motors. Oil has been mentioned but the clutch throw out bearing is another. In the former, you can do a dry sump and never look back, otherwise an accusump will be required. I blew a motor prior to going accusump myself. It's happened to friends too. Yet, not one single person on the v8rx7 board has had an oil issue who was running one. As to the second issue, it's really mostly an annoyance (see vid at end of post for explanation). The best solution IMHO is to run a non-organic clutch. Sintered iron and/or kevlar simply don't give off the same kinds of dust.
-Once you've completed the swap LSX maintenance is cheap compared to the rotary. No 110 octane fuel requirements. Fuel goes further too. Plentiful spare parts. It's just easy to live with.
-5 years is a long time for a rotary to live on track. I would tend to argue that this is outside the norm and you did very well. Quality rotary rebuilds are sometimes hard to come by and the cause of failures can be elusive. The rotary itself may have few moving parts but critical failure modes are high. Tuning is critical, turbo maint is critical, heat management is critical, proper fuel is critical, proper vacuum is critical etc. One little thing goes a bit wrong and you're hosed.
-Call and talk to Charlie Shatzen at Mazcare in Marietta, GA (770) 859-9643. He's supports both rotary and v8 swapped track cars and is intimately familiar with the pros and cons. Plus he's a good guy to talk to and shoots straight. If you do give him a ring tell him Joel Payne says hello. Hell, one of his customers might give you a ride. Their latest race car build is here.
Honestly there are only three valid reasons I've ever heard to stay rotary.
1) You're sponsored and Mazda won't let you.
2) You're a purist and don't care/refuse to believe the evidence. (Hell, some people want to drag race Yugo's just because they feel like it. Does it make it the smart/rational choice? Maybe not, but that doesn't make the reason any less valid.)
3) You're an all out racer and minute differences in polar moment of interia matter to you.
In everything else the v8 is superior. Trans I'd call a wash. I know too many folks who've blown up FD transmissions to say the the minor upside in feel is worthwhile.
-Joel
PS I make 462 rwhp and 413 rwtq using a stock shortblock ls1. Ls2/3/7 motors should all net you 500+ with a bit of breathing work.
PPS clutch issue video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBbsy0LjUv
-A test drive is a good idea, just so you know what you're in for. That said, there's simply no comparable in terms of engine performance. For a rotary to make the same power requires either a single turbo or a 20B. In the former case the torque curve of an NA v8 is much easier to drive. In the latter, maintenance gets expensive quickly and the rest of the powertrain starts to suffer particularly transmissions (the one thing torque isn't good for).
-I agree that the t56 trans is a brute, it's one of the few downsides but it's easily managed and offers few surprises. That said, the FD isn't exactly s2000 trans caliber in the feel department either.
-There are really only two weaknesses to the lsx motors. Oil has been mentioned but the clutch throw out bearing is another. In the former, you can do a dry sump and never look back, otherwise an accusump will be required. I blew a motor prior to going accusump myself. It's happened to friends too. Yet, not one single person on the v8rx7 board has had an oil issue who was running one. As to the second issue, it's really mostly an annoyance (see vid at end of post for explanation). The best solution IMHO is to run a non-organic clutch. Sintered iron and/or kevlar simply don't give off the same kinds of dust.
-Once you've completed the swap LSX maintenance is cheap compared to the rotary. No 110 octane fuel requirements. Fuel goes further too. Plentiful spare parts. It's just easy to live with.
-5 years is a long time for a rotary to live on track. I would tend to argue that this is outside the norm and you did very well. Quality rotary rebuilds are sometimes hard to come by and the cause of failures can be elusive. The rotary itself may have few moving parts but critical failure modes are high. Tuning is critical, turbo maint is critical, heat management is critical, proper fuel is critical, proper vacuum is critical etc. One little thing goes a bit wrong and you're hosed.
-Call and talk to Charlie Shatzen at Mazcare in Marietta, GA (770) 859-9643. He's supports both rotary and v8 swapped track cars and is intimately familiar with the pros and cons. Plus he's a good guy to talk to and shoots straight. If you do give him a ring tell him Joel Payne says hello. Hell, one of his customers might give you a ride. Their latest race car build is here.
Honestly there are only three valid reasons I've ever heard to stay rotary.
1) You're sponsored and Mazda won't let you.
2) You're a purist and don't care/refuse to believe the evidence. (Hell, some people want to drag race Yugo's just because they feel like it. Does it make it the smart/rational choice? Maybe not, but that doesn't make the reason any less valid.)
3) You're an all out racer and minute differences in polar moment of interia matter to you.
In everything else the v8 is superior. Trans I'd call a wash. I know too many folks who've blown up FD transmissions to say the the minor upside in feel is worthwhile.
-Joel
PS I make 462 rwhp and 413 rwtq using a stock shortblock ls1. Ls2/3/7 motors should all net you 500+ with a bit of breathing work.
PPS clutch issue video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBbsy0LjUv
03-06-10, 01:35 PM
#41
Rotary Enthusiast
As a person who has had quite a few engine failures and seen quite a few id like to chip in here.
When a water seal breaks the engine never dies out, it will run. Iv'e seen water seals break on the intake side and exhaust side. And the engine always runs. The most common water seal failure is at the bottom of the rear casting. Mostly from corrosion. When it break there the compression will push into the water and push the water out of the expansion tank. If it's in the intake side it will pull water into the engine and use alot of water.
So if it does not expell water or use water it's not a water seal issue.
Now as the engine did die on you verry suddenly, and that the fact that you can start the car up and run it rather smooth for a few minutes before it starts to run rough and die. Tells me that it's most likely a ignition problem. Have a look at your coils, check the leading coil pack to see if it's cracked, changed color, check the resistance in the coils against the workshop manual.
I would almost think it's either the coils or spark plugs that are dying. Bdw do you have a HKS Twin Power amplifier. Ive seen those fail, and work when they are cold but make the car die once they get warm.
So do this check list.
Using water?
Expelling water from expansion tank?
Check compression
Check coils for change of color and resistance
Check plugs, how old are they?
Eventuely bypass your HKS TWP if you got one.
And to check your oil in the car if you think you got water in the oil, just check the dipstick as there will be evidence of the water on the dipstick.
Oh and bdw the reason the oil looks like that in your oil catch tank is because it's cold outside and it's condensation that goes into it and turns into water when it cools down. Ive had that alot as it's quite chilly here during the spring and autum.
JT
When a water seal breaks the engine never dies out, it will run. Iv'e seen water seals break on the intake side and exhaust side. And the engine always runs. The most common water seal failure is at the bottom of the rear casting. Mostly from corrosion. When it break there the compression will push into the water and push the water out of the expansion tank. If it's in the intake side it will pull water into the engine and use alot of water.
So if it does not expell water or use water it's not a water seal issue.
Now as the engine did die on you verry suddenly, and that the fact that you can start the car up and run it rather smooth for a few minutes before it starts to run rough and die. Tells me that it's most likely a ignition problem. Have a look at your coils, check the leading coil pack to see if it's cracked, changed color, check the resistance in the coils against the workshop manual.
I would almost think it's either the coils or spark plugs that are dying. Bdw do you have a HKS Twin Power amplifier. Ive seen those fail, and work when they are cold but make the car die once they get warm.
So do this check list.
Using water?
Expelling water from expansion tank?
Check compression
Check coils for change of color and resistance
Check plugs, how old are they?
Eventuely bypass your HKS TWP if you got one.
And to check your oil in the car if you think you got water in the oil, just check the dipstick as there will be evidence of the water on the dipstick.
Oh and bdw the reason the oil looks like that in your oil catch tank is because it's cold outside and it's condensation that goes into it and turns into water when it cools down. Ive had that alot as it's quite chilly here during the spring and autum.
JT
03-06-10, 04:11 PM
#42
All out Track Freak!
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OK serious feedback now...
-A test drive is a good idea, just so you know what you're in for. That said, there's simply no comparable in terms of engine performance. For a rotary to make the same power requires either a single turbo or a 20B. In the former case the torque curve of an NA v8 is much easier to drive. In the latter, maintenance gets expensive quickly and the rest of the powertrain starts to suffer particularly transmissions (the one thing torque isn't good for).
-I agree that the t56 trans is a brute, it's one of the few downsides but it's easily managed and offers few surprises. That said, the FD isn't exactly s2000 trans caliber in the feel department either.
-There are really only two weaknesses to the lsx motors. Oil has been mentioned but the clutch throw out bearing is another. In the former, you can do a dry sump and never look back, otherwise an accusump will be required. I blew a motor prior to going accusump myself. It's happened to friends too. Yet, not one single person on the v8rx7 board has had an oil issue who was running one. As to the second issue, it's really mostly an annoyance (see vid at end of post for explanation). The best solution IMHO is to run a non-organic clutch. Sintered iron and/or kevlar simply don't give off the same kinds of dust.
-Once you've completed the swap LSX maintenance is cheap compared to the rotary. No 110 octane fuel requirements. Fuel goes further too. Plentiful spare parts. It's just easy to live with.
-5 years is a long time for a rotary to live on track. I would tend to argue that this is outside the norm and you did very well. Quality rotary rebuilds are sometimes hard to come by and the cause of failures can be elusive. The rotary itself may have few moving parts but critical failure modes are high. Tuning is critical, turbo maint is critical, heat management is critical, proper fuel is critical, proper vacuum is critical etc. One little thing goes a bit wrong and you're hosed.
-Call and talk to Charlie Shatzen at Mazcare in Marietta, GA (770) 859-9643. He's supports both rotary and v8 swapped track cars and is intimately familiar with the pros and cons. Plus he's a good guy to talk to and shoots straight. If you do give him a ring tell him Joel Payne says hello. Hell, one of his customers might give you a ride. Their latest race car build is here.
Honestly there are only three valid reasons I've ever heard to stay rotary.
1) You're sponsored and Mazda won't let you.
2) You're a purist and don't care/refuse to believe the evidence. (Hell, some people want to drag race Yugo's just because they feel like it. Does it make it the smart/rational choice? Maybe not, but that doesn't make the reason any less valid.)
3) You're an all out racer and minute differences in polar moment of interia matter to you.
In everything else the v8 is superior. Trans I'd call a wash. I know too many folks who've blown up FD transmissions to say the the minor upside in feel is worthwhile.
-Joel
PS I make 462 rwhp and 413 rwtq using a stock shortblock ls1. Ls2/3/7 motors should all net you 500+ with a bit of breathing work.
PPS clutch issue video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBbsy0LjUv
-A test drive is a good idea, just so you know what you're in for. That said, there's simply no comparable in terms of engine performance. For a rotary to make the same power requires either a single turbo or a 20B. In the former case the torque curve of an NA v8 is much easier to drive. In the latter, maintenance gets expensive quickly and the rest of the powertrain starts to suffer particularly transmissions (the one thing torque isn't good for).
-I agree that the t56 trans is a brute, it's one of the few downsides but it's easily managed and offers few surprises. That said, the FD isn't exactly s2000 trans caliber in the feel department either.
-There are really only two weaknesses to the lsx motors. Oil has been mentioned but the clutch throw out bearing is another. In the former, you can do a dry sump and never look back, otherwise an accusump will be required. I blew a motor prior to going accusump myself. It's happened to friends too. Yet, not one single person on the v8rx7 board has had an oil issue who was running one. As to the second issue, it's really mostly an annoyance (see vid at end of post for explanation). The best solution IMHO is to run a non-organic clutch. Sintered iron and/or kevlar simply don't give off the same kinds of dust.
-Once you've completed the swap LSX maintenance is cheap compared to the rotary. No 110 octane fuel requirements. Fuel goes further too. Plentiful spare parts. It's just easy to live with.
-5 years is a long time for a rotary to live on track. I would tend to argue that this is outside the norm and you did very well. Quality rotary rebuilds are sometimes hard to come by and the cause of failures can be elusive. The rotary itself may have few moving parts but critical failure modes are high. Tuning is critical, turbo maint is critical, heat management is critical, proper fuel is critical, proper vacuum is critical etc. One little thing goes a bit wrong and you're hosed.
-Call and talk to Charlie Shatzen at Mazcare in Marietta, GA (770) 859-9643. He's supports both rotary and v8 swapped track cars and is intimately familiar with the pros and cons. Plus he's a good guy to talk to and shoots straight. If you do give him a ring tell him Joel Payne says hello. Hell, one of his customers might give you a ride. Their latest race car build is here.
Honestly there are only three valid reasons I've ever heard to stay rotary.
1) You're sponsored and Mazda won't let you.
2) You're a purist and don't care/refuse to believe the evidence. (Hell, some people want to drag race Yugo's just because they feel like it. Does it make it the smart/rational choice? Maybe not, but that doesn't make the reason any less valid.)
3) You're an all out racer and minute differences in polar moment of interia matter to you.
In everything else the v8 is superior. Trans I'd call a wash. I know too many folks who've blown up FD transmissions to say the the minor upside in feel is worthwhile.
-Joel
PS I make 462 rwhp and 413 rwtq using a stock shortblock ls1. Ls2/3/7 motors should all net you 500+ with a bit of breathing work.
PPS clutch issue video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBbsy0LjUv
Since I'm still driving a rotary I like to look at the glass 1/2 full
I'm sure when someone has a really nice V8 track car available I'll buy it but until then I'm a rotary man. Hopefully Brent will have his V8 car at VIR in May and I can get a taste
03-06-10, 04:12 PM
#43
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As a person who has had quite a few engine failures and seen quite a few id like to chip in here.
When a water seal breaks the engine never dies out, it will run. Iv'e seen water seals break on the intake side and exhaust side. And the engine always runs. The most common water seal failure is at the bottom of the rear casting. Mostly from corrosion. When it break there the compression will push into the water and push the water out of the expansion tank. If it's in the intake side it will pull water into the engine and use alot of water.
So if it does not expell water or use water it's not a water seal issue.
Now as the engine did die on you verry suddenly, and that the fact that you can start the car up and run it rather smooth for a few minutes before it starts to run rough and die. Tells me that it's most likely a ignition problem. Have a look at your coils, check the leading coil pack to see if it's cracked, changed color, check the resistance in the coils against the workshop manual.
I would almost think it's either the coils or spark plugs that are dying. Bdw do you have a HKS Twin Power amplifier. Ive seen those fail, and work when they are cold but make the car die once they get warm.
So do this check list.
Using water?
Expelling water from expansion tank?
Check compression
Check coils for change of color and resistance
Check plugs, how old are they?
Eventuely bypass your HKS TWP if you got one.
And to check your oil in the car if you think you got water in the oil, just check the dipstick as there will be evidence of the water on the dipstick.
Oh and bdw the reason the oil looks like that in your oil catch tank is because it's cold outside and it's condensation that goes into it and turns into water when it cools down. Ive had that alot as it's quite chilly here during the spring and autum.
JT
When a water seal breaks the engine never dies out, it will run. Iv'e seen water seals break on the intake side and exhaust side. And the engine always runs. The most common water seal failure is at the bottom of the rear casting. Mostly from corrosion. When it break there the compression will push into the water and push the water out of the expansion tank. If it's in the intake side it will pull water into the engine and use alot of water.
So if it does not expell water or use water it's not a water seal issue.
Now as the engine did die on you verry suddenly, and that the fact that you can start the car up and run it rather smooth for a few minutes before it starts to run rough and die. Tells me that it's most likely a ignition problem. Have a look at your coils, check the leading coil pack to see if it's cracked, changed color, check the resistance in the coils against the workshop manual.
I would almost think it's either the coils or spark plugs that are dying. Bdw do you have a HKS Twin Power amplifier. Ive seen those fail, and work when they are cold but make the car die once they get warm.
So do this check list.
Using water?
Expelling water from expansion tank?
Check compression
Check coils for change of color and resistance
Check plugs, how old are they?
Eventuely bypass your HKS TWP if you got one.
And to check your oil in the car if you think you got water in the oil, just check the dipstick as there will be evidence of the water on the dipstick.
Oh and bdw the reason the oil looks like that in your oil catch tank is because it's cold outside and it's condensation that goes into it and turns into water when it cools down. Ive had that alot as it's quite chilly here during the spring and autum.
JT
03-06-10, 04:14 PM
#44
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OK serious feedback now...
-A test drive is a good idea, just so you know what you're in for. That said, there's simply no comparable in terms of engine performance. For a rotary to make the same power requires either a single turbo or a 20B. In the former case the torque curve of an NA v8 is much easier to drive. In the latter, maintenance gets expensive quickly and the rest of the powertrain starts to suffer particularly transmissions (the one thing torque isn't good for).
-I agree that the t56 trans is a brute, it's one of the few downsides but it's easily managed and offers few surprises. That said, the FD isn't exactly s2000 trans caliber in the feel department either.
-There are really only two weaknesses to the lsx motors. Oil has been mentioned but the clutch throw out bearing is another. In the former, you can do a dry sump and never look back, otherwise an accusump will be required. I blew a motor prior to going accusump myself. It's happened to friends too. Yet, not one single person on the v8rx7 board has had an oil issue who was running one. As to the second issue, it's really mostly an annoyance (see vid at end of post for explanation). The best solution IMHO is to run a non-organic clutch. Sintered iron and/or kevlar simply don't give off the same kinds of dust.
-Once you've completed the swap LSX maintenance is cheap compared to the rotary. No 110 octane fuel requirements. Fuel goes further too. Plentiful spare parts. It's just easy to live with.
-5 years is a long time for a rotary to live on track. I would tend to argue that this is outside the norm and you did very well. Quality rotary rebuilds are sometimes hard to come by and the cause of failures can be elusive. The rotary itself may have few moving parts but critical failure modes are high. Tuning is critical, turbo maint is critical, heat management is critical, proper fuel is critical, proper vacuum is critical etc. One little thing goes a bit wrong and you're hosed.
-Call and talk to Charlie Shatzen at Mazcare in Marietta, GA (770) 859-9643. He's supports both rotary and v8 swapped track cars and is intimately familiar with the pros and cons. Plus he's a good guy to talk to and shoots straight. If you do give him a ring tell him Joel Payne says hello. Hell, one of his customers might give you a ride. Their latest race car build is here.
Honestly there are only three valid reasons I've ever heard to stay rotary.
1) You're sponsored and Mazda won't let you.
2) You're a purist and don't care/refuse to believe the evidence. (Hell, some people want to drag race Yugo's just because they feel like it. Does it make it the smart/rational choice? Maybe not, but that doesn't make the reason any less valid.)
3) You're an all out racer and minute differences in polar moment of interia matter to you.
In everything else the v8 is superior. Trans I'd call a wash. I know too many folks who've blown up FD transmissions to say the the minor upside in feel is worthwhile.
-Joel
PS I make 462 rwhp and 413 rwtq using a stock shortblock ls1. Ls2/3/7 motors should all net you 500+ with a bit of breathing work.
PPS clutch issue video:
-A test drive is a good idea, just so you know what you're in for. That said, there's simply no comparable in terms of engine performance. For a rotary to make the same power requires either a single turbo or a 20B. In the former case the torque curve of an NA v8 is much easier to drive. In the latter, maintenance gets expensive quickly and the rest of the powertrain starts to suffer particularly transmissions (the one thing torque isn't good for).
-I agree that the t56 trans is a brute, it's one of the few downsides but it's easily managed and offers few surprises. That said, the FD isn't exactly s2000 trans caliber in the feel department either.
-There are really only two weaknesses to the lsx motors. Oil has been mentioned but the clutch throw out bearing is another. In the former, you can do a dry sump and never look back, otherwise an accusump will be required. I blew a motor prior to going accusump myself. It's happened to friends too. Yet, not one single person on the v8rx7 board has had an oil issue who was running one. As to the second issue, it's really mostly an annoyance (see vid at end of post for explanation). The best solution IMHO is to run a non-organic clutch. Sintered iron and/or kevlar simply don't give off the same kinds of dust.
-Once you've completed the swap LSX maintenance is cheap compared to the rotary. No 110 octane fuel requirements. Fuel goes further too. Plentiful spare parts. It's just easy to live with.
-5 years is a long time for a rotary to live on track. I would tend to argue that this is outside the norm and you did very well. Quality rotary rebuilds are sometimes hard to come by and the cause of failures can be elusive. The rotary itself may have few moving parts but critical failure modes are high. Tuning is critical, turbo maint is critical, heat management is critical, proper fuel is critical, proper vacuum is critical etc. One little thing goes a bit wrong and you're hosed.
-Call and talk to Charlie Shatzen at Mazcare in Marietta, GA (770) 859-9643. He's supports both rotary and v8 swapped track cars and is intimately familiar with the pros and cons. Plus he's a good guy to talk to and shoots straight. If you do give him a ring tell him Joel Payne says hello. Hell, one of his customers might give you a ride. Their latest race car build is here.
Honestly there are only three valid reasons I've ever heard to stay rotary.
1) You're sponsored and Mazda won't let you.
2) You're a purist and don't care/refuse to believe the evidence. (Hell, some people want to drag race Yugo's just because they feel like it. Does it make it the smart/rational choice? Maybe not, but that doesn't make the reason any less valid.)
3) You're an all out racer and minute differences in polar moment of interia matter to you.
In everything else the v8 is superior. Trans I'd call a wash. I know too many folks who've blown up FD transmissions to say the the minor upside in feel is worthwhile.
-Joel
PS I make 462 rwhp and 413 rwtq using a stock shortblock ls1. Ls2/3/7 motors should all net you 500+ with a bit of breathing work.
PPS clutch issue video:
As a person who has had quite a few engine failures and seen quite a few id like to chip in here.
When a water seal breaks the engine never dies out, it will run. Iv'e seen water seals break on the intake side and exhaust side. And the engine always runs. The most common water seal failure is at the bottom of the rear casting. Mostly from corrosion. When it break there the compression will push into the water and push the water out of the expansion tank. If it's in the intake side it will pull water into the engine and use alot of water.
So if it does not expell water or use water it's not a water seal issue.
Now as the engine did die on you verry suddenly, and that the fact that you can start the car up and run it rather smooth for a few minutes before it starts to run rough and die. Tells me that it's most likely a ignition problem. Have a look at your coils, check the leading coil pack to see if it's cracked, changed color, check the resistance in the coils against the workshop manual.
I would almost think it's either the coils or spark plugs that are dying. Bdw do you have a HKS Twin Power amplifier. Ive seen those fail, and work when they are cold but make the car die once they get warm.
So do this check list.
Using water?
Expelling water from expansion tank?
Check compression
Check coils for change of color and resistance
Check plugs, how old are they?
Eventuely bypass your HKS TWP if you got one.
And to check your oil in the car if you think you got water in the oil, just check the dipstick as there will be evidence of the water on the dipstick.
Oh and bdw the reason the oil looks like that in your oil catch tank is because it's cold outside and it's condensation that goes into it and turns into water when it cools down. Ive had that alot as it's quite chilly here during the spring and autum.
JT
When a water seal breaks the engine never dies out, it will run. Iv'e seen water seals break on the intake side and exhaust side. And the engine always runs. The most common water seal failure is at the bottom of the rear casting. Mostly from corrosion. When it break there the compression will push into the water and push the water out of the expansion tank. If it's in the intake side it will pull water into the engine and use alot of water.
So if it does not expell water or use water it's not a water seal issue.
Now as the engine did die on you verry suddenly, and that the fact that you can start the car up and run it rather smooth for a few minutes before it starts to run rough and die. Tells me that it's most likely a ignition problem. Have a look at your coils, check the leading coil pack to see if it's cracked, changed color, check the resistance in the coils against the workshop manual.
I would almost think it's either the coils or spark plugs that are dying. Bdw do you have a HKS Twin Power amplifier. Ive seen those fail, and work when they are cold but make the car die once they get warm.
So do this check list.
Using water?
Expelling water from expansion tank?
Check compression
Check coils for change of color and resistance
Check plugs, how old are they?
Eventuely bypass your HKS TWP if you got one.
And to check your oil in the car if you think you got water in the oil, just check the dipstick as there will be evidence of the water on the dipstick.
Oh and bdw the reason the oil looks like that in your oil catch tank is because it's cold outside and it's condensation that goes into it and turns into water when it cools down. Ive had that alot as it's quite chilly here during the spring and autum.
JT
Thanks for this info. I've always had a reliable engine, so I've never had to troubleshoot any type of problem like this so this is very helpful. I've been running around all day and still haven't had chance to start diagnosing the car but I'm planning on getting her up on stands tomorrow and doing all of this. i don't have a compression tester so I'm going to have to do the poor mans test first. I don't have an HKS by the way but thanks for that info
03-06-10, 08:06 PM
#46
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I picked it up at OG Racing when i was there picking up some other things at a sidewalk sale. They have it on their site for $109 now, i don't think i paid that much 5 years ago though
http://www.ogracing.com/catalog/2-Ca...T-CAMERA-MOUNT
http://www.ogracing.com/catalog/2-Ca...T-CAMERA-MOUNT
03-07-10, 04:39 AM
#47
Rotary Enthusiast
Wow, lots of good info in this post, thanks so much. If it is indeed dead after i check out everything I will definitely file this away for reference.
Thanks for this info. I've always had a reliable engine, so I've never had to troubleshoot any type of problem like this so this is very helpful. I've been running around all day and still haven't had chance to start diagnosing the car but I'm planning on getting her up on stands tomorrow and doing all of this. i don't have a compression tester so I'm going to have to do the poor mans test first. I don't have an HKS by the way but thanks for that info
Thanks for this info. I've always had a reliable engine, so I've never had to troubleshoot any type of problem like this so this is very helpful. I've been running around all day and still haven't had chance to start diagnosing the car but I'm planning on getting her up on stands tomorrow and doing all of this. i don't have a compression tester so I'm going to have to do the poor mans test first. I don't have an HKS by the way but thanks for that info
Good luck
JT
03-07-10, 09:21 AM
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after dumping the cat and losing that back pressure the car just feels like it needs to go to 2nd in some places where i used to pull out in 3rd. I've kind of had to rework all my shift points now, but I guess I don't really need to drop down to 2nd in 1 and 4.