buy a real bucket seat or fake
#3
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What does a "fake bucket seat" mean?
For me, anything related to my safety is NOT where I want to save a buck or a grand.
And, I do consider track day events a form of racing, as speeds can get high, and things can happen, though rare.
For me, anything related to my safety is NOT where I want to save a buck or a grand.
And, I do consider track day events a form of racing, as speeds can get high, and things can happen, though rare.
#6
Rotary Motoring
iTrader: (9)
You have an FC right? Lots of seats fit in that!
Cobra seats are nice, FIA certified and start around $400.
By fakes do you mean the fake Brides that are all over Ebay? I have a couple friends with them. They look good new, but feel pretty flimsy and the cloth fades very fast (in weeks for the Red!)
Cobra seats are nice, FIA certified and start around $400.
By fakes do you mean the fake Brides that are all over Ebay? I have a couple friends with them. They look good new, but feel pretty flimsy and the cloth fades very fast (in weeks for the Red!)
#7
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we just put a new sparco (i think, i don't follow sports) dumbo ear seat in the race car, and it was only $600 new.
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#8
Mr. Links
iTrader: (1)
If you are going with a fixed back/bucket seat, what else are you planning for safety? Rollbar, cage, 5/6 pt harness?
#9
In general, it's a bad idea as you have no idea how strong the mounting locations are on those counterfeit seats since there is not testing/certification. While you never expect to have an incident on track; it's better to prepare and not have one rather than not preparing and then having one...
If you are going with a fixed back/bucket seat, what else are you planning for safety? Rollbar, cage, 5/6 pt harness?
If you are going with a fixed back/bucket seat, what else are you planning for safety? Rollbar, cage, 5/6 pt harness?
I wont have a roll bar anytime soon. I haven't looked, but are there any good mounting areas on the stock chasis for a harness?
Ill have to see what kind of deal I can get on a real racing seat
#10
Mr. Links
iTrader: (1)
I don't want to be "that guy", but you really need to think through this for your own safety. It's not really safe to do only parts of the safety as it can make things more dangerous if there is a track incident. What I'm referring to is that to be safe, you need to do one of the two setups below:
1:
Rollbar/cage
Fixed back seat (preferably FIA certifiied or with seatback brace)
5/6 point harness
2.
No rollbar/cage
Reclinable seat (or seat designed to be used with stock seat belts)
Stock belts with CG Lock
The reason is that a fixed back seat with a harness will hold you upright. During a rollover event, your head will be the highest point inside the vehicle without a rollbar/cage. When/if the roof caves, your neck/spine is the compression mechanism. With the stock belts and non-bucket seat, they will allow your body to contort so in that event, your body can slide a little and not be held upright like a post. This is why you really need to do everything at once or go a different route. If you never plan to do a rollbar or cage, then go with a "sporty" seat which offers some better support but still works with the stock belts. You can then use the CG Lock which will provide better support while on the track and still be safe. When you are ready to go the full route with a rollbar or cage, then you can do the fixed back seat and harness.
Now, there are cars which come stock with fixed back seats, but the seats are typically designed around stock seat designs. There are those who just buy race seats and throw them in cars with stock belts and no rollbars/cage... It all depends on how much worth you put on your life... I know I took some uneducated risks in my earlier "car years" and nothing bad ever happened. However, now knowing what I know, I cringe at some of the choices I made and I'm just thankful I never had to understand how bad of a decision it was at the time.
1:
Rollbar/cage
Fixed back seat (preferably FIA certifiied or with seatback brace)
5/6 point harness
2.
No rollbar/cage
Reclinable seat (or seat designed to be used with stock seat belts)
Stock belts with CG Lock
The reason is that a fixed back seat with a harness will hold you upright. During a rollover event, your head will be the highest point inside the vehicle without a rollbar/cage. When/if the roof caves, your neck/spine is the compression mechanism. With the stock belts and non-bucket seat, they will allow your body to contort so in that event, your body can slide a little and not be held upright like a post. This is why you really need to do everything at once or go a different route. If you never plan to do a rollbar or cage, then go with a "sporty" seat which offers some better support but still works with the stock belts. You can then use the CG Lock which will provide better support while on the track and still be safe. When you are ready to go the full route with a rollbar or cage, then you can do the fixed back seat and harness.
Now, there are cars which come stock with fixed back seats, but the seats are typically designed around stock seat designs. There are those who just buy race seats and throw them in cars with stock belts and no rollbars/cage... It all depends on how much worth you put on your life... I know I took some uneducated risks in my earlier "car years" and nothing bad ever happened. However, now knowing what I know, I cringe at some of the choices I made and I'm just thankful I never had to understand how bad of a decision it was at the time.
#12
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (19)
I vote REAL, especially since you like to go to the track. At least put in a Corbeau Forza. They're cheap, crashtested and FIA approved. While you shop, you'll probably come across seats that say TUV on them.
FIA = racing approved
TUV = German Road car standards. Similar to DOT, but with much more strict standards.
FIA = racing approved
TUV = German Road car standards. Similar to DOT, but with much more strict standards.
#15
BRAP PSHHH
iTrader: (2)
I remember this kid who bought a pair of Corbeau rep seats for his M5 and the adjustable recliner broke on the backstretch. Imagine suddenly being pinned down by your seat belt or held up by only your harness going 140km/h.
Would you risk saving a few bucks for that trade off? Just get a used seat like a sparco. They go new for 600 but can be gotten used for 400 or less depending on wear
Would you risk saving a few bucks for that trade off? Just get a used seat like a sparco. They go new for 600 but can be gotten used for 400 or less depending on wear
#16
B O R I C U A
iTrader: (14)
I don't want to be "that guy", but you really need to think through this for your own safety. It's not really safe to do only parts of the safety as it can make things more dangerous if there is a track incident. What I'm referring to is that to be safe, you need to do one of the two setups below:
1:
Rollbar/cage
Fixed back seat (preferably FIA certifiied or with seatback brace)
5/6 point harness
2.
No rollbar/cage
Reclinable seat (or seat designed to be used with stock seat belts)
Stock belts with CG Lock
The reason is that a fixed back seat with a harness will hold you upright. During a rollover event, your head will be the highest point inside the vehicle without a rollbar/cage. When/if the roof caves, your neck/spine is the compression mechanism. With the stock belts and non-bucket seat, they will allow your body to contort so in that event, your body can slide a little and not be held upright like a post. This is why you really need to do everything at once or go a different route. If you never plan to do a rollbar or cage, then go with a "sporty" seat which offers some better support but still works with the stock belts. You can then use the CG Lock which will provide better support while on the track and still be safe. When you are ready to go the full route with a rollbar or cage, then you can do the fixed back seat and harness.
Now, there are cars which come stock with fixed back seats, but the seats are typically designed around stock seat designs. There are those who just buy race seats and throw them in cars with stock belts and no rollbars/cage... It all depends on how much worth you put on your life... I know I took some uneducated risks in my earlier "car years" and nothing bad ever happened. However, now knowing what I know, I cringe at some of the choices I made and I'm just thankful I never had to understand how bad of a decision it was at the time.
1:
Rollbar/cage
Fixed back seat (preferably FIA certifiied or with seatback brace)
5/6 point harness
2.
No rollbar/cage
Reclinable seat (or seat designed to be used with stock seat belts)
Stock belts with CG Lock
The reason is that a fixed back seat with a harness will hold you upright. During a rollover event, your head will be the highest point inside the vehicle without a rollbar/cage. When/if the roof caves, your neck/spine is the compression mechanism. With the stock belts and non-bucket seat, they will allow your body to contort so in that event, your body can slide a little and not be held upright like a post. This is why you really need to do everything at once or go a different route. If you never plan to do a rollbar or cage, then go with a "sporty" seat which offers some better support but still works with the stock belts. You can then use the CG Lock which will provide better support while on the track and still be safe. When you are ready to go the full route with a rollbar or cage, then you can do the fixed back seat and harness.
Now, there are cars which come stock with fixed back seats, but the seats are typically designed around stock seat designs. There are those who just buy race seats and throw them in cars with stock belts and no rollbars/cage... It all depends on how much worth you put on your life... I know I took some uneducated risks in my earlier "car years" and nothing bad ever happened. However, now knowing what I know, I cringe at some of the choices I made and I'm just thankful I never had to understand how bad of a decision it was at the time.
I've been lusting over the FC3s Infini bucket seats, but given their rarity and ongoing used prices, a similar in (size) Corbeau/Sparco seat was in order. After reading your comments, I guess a fixed bucket seat like the Infini ones are not a good idea without a rollcage
#19
B O R I C U A
iTrader: (14)
What about a roll cage? I wont be doing any REAL competition, the plan is to do a couple of track days a year, and as many auto x a year as possible. I know my intentions do not require a bucket seat, but if I am spending $$$ on it, might as well go with a bucket (well that was the idea till Crispy's insinght on the matter)
#20
Mr. Links
iTrader: (1)
Thanks for the insight!
I've been lusting over the FC3s Infini bucket seats, but given their rarity and ongoing used prices, a similar in (size) Corbeau/Sparco seat was in order. After reading your comments, I guess a fixed bucket seat like the Infini ones are not a good idea without a rollcage
I've been lusting over the FC3s Infini bucket seats, but given their rarity and ongoing used prices, a similar in (size) Corbeau/Sparco seat was in order. After reading your comments, I guess a fixed bucket seat like the Infini ones are not a good idea without a rollcage
#21
Rotary Motoring
iTrader: (9)
Stock Infini seat has no holes in the sides or bottom for harness.
The side bolsters are just giant foam wings (which do a good job of holding you in).
The hole below the headrest that looks like it would work for a harness is too low so the bottom of the headrest could pull down on your shoulders with the harness (aka spinal compression fatality move).
They are heavier than stock TII seats as its a steel pan bottom with steel frame and lots of foam and alcantra.
The bottom pan previously mentioned is heavily cushioned and comfy, but you sit a little higher than stock TII seats. Probably a bonus for '80s Japanese people trying to see over the dash of a car made for the US market.
The US passenger (JDM driver!) rail is flawed from the factory with a notch on the outside rear mounting point. Mine broke on DOT-R tires with my 100lb GF in it.
You can re-drill and use the stronger US passenger rail.
They do look nice, have good shoulder and bottom support, fit easily in the car, have that JDM swag and if asked at track days you can say they are stock (though not really as they did not pass US crash standards).
All in all, they are like the bottom mount stock Recaro FD buckets everyone goes nuts over- cool to look at and because they were stock in Japan, but cost too much and inferior to real side mount FIA bucket in every way.
The side bolsters are just giant foam wings (which do a good job of holding you in).
The hole below the headrest that looks like it would work for a harness is too low so the bottom of the headrest could pull down on your shoulders with the harness (aka spinal compression fatality move).
They are heavier than stock TII seats as its a steel pan bottom with steel frame and lots of foam and alcantra.
The bottom pan previously mentioned is heavily cushioned and comfy, but you sit a little higher than stock TII seats. Probably a bonus for '80s Japanese people trying to see over the dash of a car made for the US market.
The US passenger (JDM driver!) rail is flawed from the factory with a notch on the outside rear mounting point. Mine broke on DOT-R tires with my 100lb GF in it.
You can re-drill and use the stronger US passenger rail.
They do look nice, have good shoulder and bottom support, fit easily in the car, have that JDM swag and if asked at track days you can say they are stock (though not really as they did not pass US crash standards).
All in all, they are like the bottom mount stock Recaro FD buckets everyone goes nuts over- cool to look at and because they were stock in Japan, but cost too much and inferior to real side mount FIA bucket in every way.
#22
HKS obsessed
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I personally think this is worth a decent read. I know some people might argue with it, but Takata is well known for their safety belts.
Takata Answers Your Questions
Takata Answers Your Questions
#24
Fistful of steel
iTrader: (7)
Buy a Kirkey Series 47. They are ~$450 for the seat and cover and they are badass. It will bolt directly to the stock driver side slider with $20 in parts from Home Depot Racing. It fits with tons of extra room in an FC. They come in 4 widths, 15"-18" and are very comfortable. It is also very easy to add extra padding to them if you desire.
If you want to spend less for around $275 you can get a spec Miata style seat, this is a Kirkey series 41. I run one as a passenger seat.
I know we are local so if you want to check it out sometime, let me know.
Last edited by LargeOrangeFont; 03-20-15 at 06:48 PM.
#25
I would use the money you are saving and buy a used Autopower FC/FB rollbar, and a Kirkey seat. It will solve all your problems, and still be perfectly safe to drive on the street.
Buy a Kirkey Series 47. They are ~$450 for the seat and cover and they are badass. It will bolt directly to the stock driver side slider with $20 in parts from Home Depot Racing. It fits with tons of extra room in an FC. They come in 4 widths, 15"-18" and are very comfortable. It is also very easy to add extra padding to them if you desire.
If you want to spend less for around $275 you can get a spec Miata style seat, this is a Kirkey series 41. I run one as a passenger seat.
I know we are local so if you want to check it out sometime, let me know.
Buy a Kirkey Series 47. They are ~$450 for the seat and cover and they are badass. It will bolt directly to the stock driver side slider with $20 in parts from Home Depot Racing. It fits with tons of extra room in an FC. They come in 4 widths, 15"-18" and are very comfortable. It is also very easy to add extra padding to them if you desire.
If you want to spend less for around $275 you can get a spec Miata style seat, this is a Kirkey series 41. I run one as a passenger seat.
I know we are local so if you want to check it out sometime, let me know.
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