Apex power fc for road racing
Apex power fc for road racing
How many are using the power fc in a road race car. I am still using the stock ecu and am annoyed with the abrupt on throttle off throttle transition. Also the 3k hiccup is disconcerting as well. Does the FC help these issues??
Raj
Raj
I'm using the power FC on my car.
however, if you are still using sequential twin turbos I would not recommend it, The power fc has a problem with the transition between the primary and secondary turbo. Sometimes when you are on the gas you get boost, let off and on again, no boost, and you have to let off to get boost. I know a lot of poeple with twin turbo with power with this problem. You might want to just get the M2 stage 3 ecu
however, if you are still using sequential twin turbos I would not recommend it, The power fc has a problem with the transition between the primary and secondary turbo. Sometimes when you are on the gas you get boost, let off and on again, no boost, and you have to let off to get boost. I know a lot of poeple with twin turbo with power with this problem. You might want to just get the M2 stage 3 ecu
Is it rpm sensative? When I get on it from 2000rpms and go to 8000 I get full boost, but when I let off so the revs fall below the transition point but above 2700rpms I get nothing and the commander indicates that the solenoids are in the secondary position. When revs fall below 2700 the solenoids switch back to primary only and I'm back in business. Alternately if I let revs climb to 4000 I get full power.
I'm pretty sure I had this problem before installing the PFC, but its been a few years.
I agree with what was said above, when it does work it transitions much smoother than it did with a manual boost controller.
I'm pretty sure I had this problem before installing the PFC, but its been a few years.
I agree with what was said above, when it does work it transitions much smoother than it did with a manual boost controller.
I have been road racing my 93 rx7 since 1997 and it is a full race car. I've had the PFC since it came out BUT with non sequential and i believe that i the way to go for roadracing. no 2nd turbo spike when you are at the limit on a corner.
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CC,
That's cool. It's a moot point anyway because guys like Stickley and Pierre are very good drivers and are racing. I'm just doddering around like an old man on used Hoosiers trying not to get in the way.
There are some damn quick E36M3s out there who are really limited by tire size. I've got a buddy with car similar to mine that turns 2:05s at WGI and 0:56s at Lime Rock. Last time at VIR, the tow of us were cat and mouse around the high 2:15s and there is a lot left on newer tires. I had been there for three days and my tires were toasted. <g>
That's cool. It's a moot point anyway because guys like Stickley and Pierre are very good drivers and are racing. I'm just doddering around like an old man on used Hoosiers trying not to get in the way.
There are some damn quick E36M3s out there who are really limited by tire size. I've got a buddy with car similar to mine that turns 2:05s at WGI and 0:56s at Lime Rock. Last time at VIR, the tow of us were cat and mouse around the high 2:15s and there is a lot left on newer tires. I had been there for three days and my tires were toasted. <g>
Raj:
You may be fine with the factory base map. Most people are in agreement that it is fine for intake, dp, catback, IC. I have the above mods and am still running rich.
With that said, I would buy it at the lowest possible price with the base map. If your setup requires additonal fuel I would then get it dyno tuned for YOUR car.
I think this makes much more sense than paying a premium for one that has been tuned for a car with similar mods. No two FDs are exactly the same and there is not a lot of margin for error with Air/fuel ratios.
Dyno tuning should run you around $500, but could be a lot less depending on where you go and how extreme your setup is....and of course how close you want to get to the edge.
You may be fine with the factory base map. Most people are in agreement that it is fine for intake, dp, catback, IC. I have the above mods and am still running rich.
With that said, I would buy it at the lowest possible price with the base map. If your setup requires additonal fuel I would then get it dyno tuned for YOUR car.
I think this makes much more sense than paying a premium for one that has been tuned for a car with similar mods. No two FDs are exactly the same and there is not a lot of margin for error with Air/fuel ratios.
Dyno tuning should run you around $500, but could be a lot less depending on where you go and how extreme your setup is....and of course how close you want to get to the edge.
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