Anyone running Auto-x SSM class?
#26
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Why is that important? A number of reasons, main one being my career is going to be an automotive tech or maybe even a specialization in one or more fields (engine, trans, suspension, etc.) so anything I can do to gain experience comes first before being competitive in my book. I have a whole life ahead of me to do things "how I should" rather than how I am doing them. And right now, my schooling/education comes before anything.
So before we have any other posts saying I should stick with lower classes and gain experience and whatever else, please reserve those comments. Like I've said multiple times, right now I am racing to have fun, not to be 100% dedicated and competitive.
Besides, if I was really trying to be competitive, why as a 20 year old working at subway part-time and going to school full-time would I choose such a damn expensive class to compete in? Lol
#30
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Haha trust me, I've learned a lot working on this car.
Okay so a little update, my brake master stopper is fabbed up and awaiting paint (not sure which color yet) and I have my trans back at home ready to be pulled apart. Since the main shaft output bearing is able to spin in the plate's bore, the plan right now is to shot peen the ID of the bore and use the green loctite when re-installing the bearing to ensure the outer race doesn't move around anymore. Then before everything goes back together, the exterior of the trans will get repainted.
Before the install, I am also going to save up and purchase a new OEM Exedy clutch kit and most likely an RB lightweight steel flywheel (so if anyone has one and is willing to sell with the counterweight or not, please let me know. The engine is an S5 NA for counterweight clarification)
Okay so a little update, my brake master stopper is fabbed up and awaiting paint (not sure which color yet) and I have my trans back at home ready to be pulled apart. Since the main shaft output bearing is able to spin in the plate's bore, the plan right now is to shot peen the ID of the bore and use the green loctite when re-installing the bearing to ensure the outer race doesn't move around anymore. Then before everything goes back together, the exterior of the trans will get repainted.
Before the install, I am also going to save up and purchase a new OEM Exedy clutch kit and most likely an RB lightweight steel flywheel (so if anyone has one and is willing to sell with the counterweight or not, please let me know. The engine is an S5 NA for counterweight clarification)
#31
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Okay update time:
Trans: Everything is staying AS IS, the race in question is a-ok. Supposed to be like that (as the trans heats up it will expand enough to have a press-like fit). Only thing to do is a new nylon shift socket and the clutch kit.
Engine bay: Tomorrow is going to be a cleaning day but last night I got a little bit done. Removed the AC compressor and lines (holy hell the system has had to be dry for years now), got the master cylinder stopper installed (only version 1.0, after I perfect it and have a final design I can make a short run of them for anyone who wants them. Pricing right now is looking like $30 a pop. It stops the MC from moving in-and-out but now it wants to move side-to-side and also makes the strut tower flex a wee bit.. So extra bracing will be made to stop that), and just did a little tidy-ing up with the spark plug wires using some good ole fashion zip-ties. Really improves the look and makes installation a mindless process since they will now only fit one way.
Here's a few crappy pics so after I clean it up tomorrow I will take better ones.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8481460921/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8481460921/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr
Btw the stopper is painted Mazda code SQ to perfectly match the rest of the bay. Came out pretty good for a quick non-**** paint. Sandblast part, prep spray, two coats of self etching primer, two coats of flat silver, and two coats of the paint-match. I usually take more care in painting things but this was just a quicky to get it on the car.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8482551054/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8482551054/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr
Also as you can see, for whatever reason, the bolt did not line up with the center of the MC even though it lined up perfect on the test car... Oh well, like I said, temporary until version 2.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8481458875/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8481458875/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr
And I'm sure we all know this trick (I never knew exactly how to execute it until the other night) but its very simple and effective!
Trans: Everything is staying AS IS, the race in question is a-ok. Supposed to be like that (as the trans heats up it will expand enough to have a press-like fit). Only thing to do is a new nylon shift socket and the clutch kit.
Engine bay: Tomorrow is going to be a cleaning day but last night I got a little bit done. Removed the AC compressor and lines (holy hell the system has had to be dry for years now), got the master cylinder stopper installed (only version 1.0, after I perfect it and have a final design I can make a short run of them for anyone who wants them. Pricing right now is looking like $30 a pop. It stops the MC from moving in-and-out but now it wants to move side-to-side and also makes the strut tower flex a wee bit.. So extra bracing will be made to stop that), and just did a little tidy-ing up with the spark plug wires using some good ole fashion zip-ties. Really improves the look and makes installation a mindless process since they will now only fit one way.
Here's a few crappy pics so after I clean it up tomorrow I will take better ones.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8481460921/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8481460921/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr
Btw the stopper is painted Mazda code SQ to perfectly match the rest of the bay. Came out pretty good for a quick non-**** paint. Sandblast part, prep spray, two coats of self etching primer, two coats of flat silver, and two coats of the paint-match. I usually take more care in painting things but this was just a quicky to get it on the car.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8482551054/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8482551054/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr
Also as you can see, for whatever reason, the bolt did not line up with the center of the MC even though it lined up perfect on the test car... Oh well, like I said, temporary until version 2.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8481458875/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8481458875/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr
And I'm sure we all know this trick (I never knew exactly how to execute it until the other night) but its very simple and effective!
#32
1308ccs of awesome
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nice, I have the level zero motorspors BMC brace on my car, I haven't actually driven with it yet though.... we'll see how much it does.
Level Zero Motorsports
I worked on my car tonight for a bit. dropped the rear subframe to pull the diff for the 4.3 gears/OS Giken/ new diff bearings and seals install.
also installed a 120V winch in my garage yesterday to pull my car up the hill into my garage
yay, harbor frieght
Level Zero Motorsports
I worked on my car tonight for a bit. dropped the rear subframe to pull the diff for the 4.3 gears/OS Giken/ new diff bearings and seals install.
also installed a 120V winch in my garage yesterday to pull my car up the hill into my garage
yay, harbor frieght
#34
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Runs 1-3 of 6 from yesterday. I ran STR and while I was the slowest, it was only by about half a second against three second gen miatas and one first gen miata. These tires are very awkward to race on since they have very good initial bite but then give up mid-corner (but what do you expect from $100 all seasons). After I get the other three uploaded I'll share them as well.
#36
Wastegate John
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#37
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Found the harness I want. I've thought about Scroth, Impact Racing, overly expensive stuff and now I have stumbled across a very well priced good-quality harness from G-Force. 5-point, camlock, 3-inch belts, FIA & SCCA certified until 2017 and utilizes hardened steel mounting hardware. Here's the link if anyone is looking for a good and cheap harness G-Force Pro 5PT Camlock Harness - SafeRacer
#38
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Even better here: G-Force Pro Series FIA 5pt. Camlock Harness - SafeRacer
#39
1308ccs of awesome
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Get a 6 point... trust me, 5 points aren't even legal with some groups.
also, I have schroth clubman harnesses, they're a little bit more but look a lot nicer.
Schroth Racing Clubman PU Snap Belt
also, I have schroth clubman harnesses, they're a little bit more but look a lot nicer.
Schroth Racing Clubman PU Snap Belt
#41
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Get a 6 point... trust me, 5 points aren't even legal with some groups.
also, I have schroth clubman harnesses, they're a little bit more but look a lot nicer.
Schroth Racing Clubman PU Snap Belt
also, I have schroth clubman harnesses, they're a little bit more but look a lot nicer.
Schroth Racing Clubman PU Snap Belt
cheaper and just as good.
#42
1308ccs of awesome
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Made a good push on Saturday and got the rx7 up a running (it starts on it's own now )
made a last minute decision to hit up the autocrosser's inc. autocross in waldorf on sunday:
Also picked up a trailer the same day, since my tires don't fit in my car anymore with the roll bar...
Also picked up a trailer, since my roll bar significantly cut down on the ability to carry tires...
made a last minute decision to hit up the autocrosser's inc. autocross in waldorf on sunday:
Also picked up a trailer the same day, since my tires don't fit in my car anymore with the roll bar...
Also picked up a trailer, since my roll bar significantly cut down on the ability to carry tires...
#45
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My first helmet Bell Sport Mag SA2010
http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8559055242/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8559055242/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8559055242/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8559055242/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr
#47
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I'm contemplating getting the TR Motorsports C1 15x8 +20 with Direzza ZII 205/50 rubbers as my track ONLY wheel/tire setup. the wheels weigh about 13-14 lbs and for $104 each, can't really beat it..
Last edited by REAmemiya_fan; 04-10-13 at 10:34 AM.
#48
1308ccs of awesome
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also, if they make it (I'm not sure if they make them in 5x114) I'd try to get 15x9s.
I have some 15x9 TRM wheels on the front of my corolla (4x100) with 225/45/15 Hankook RS3s and they're awesome.
and then later in life you could try putting some 275/35/15 hoosiers on them
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