Does anyone know where I could get a 160 degree thermostat for my 90 13b?

 

Sratch that....

At the last race where ambiant temps were around 75-80*, the coolant temp never went over 130*, and it only got to there when I was drafting a guy for a while, ussually it was 100* or so. And I am sure the gauge is accurate because when I got out the radiator was warm, not hot. I know the system is fine, so that is not an issue. So, my assumption is that this is not ideal.

Perhaps again, ludwig will know. What is the optimul temperature to run at. All I can find is 180* thermostats. Thanks!!!!

 

I got my 160 from Atkins rotary. There was a thread on here in the race section not too long ago and the consensus is to gut a thermostat and plug the bypass hole. Do a search and you'll find it. I have kept my 160 for now though and may switch to the other method later.

Where is your temp sensor located? Sounds to me that it might be on the bottom hose or return line. I can't imagine water in the motor is at 100 or even 130 degrees. The top hose is the line from the motor to the radiator before it gets cooled, you probably already know that though. Your sensor might be bad. What kind of radiator do you have? What's your oil temps? 200 for water is about right.

Here's what Mazdaspeed says http://mazdamotorsports.preview.mazd...ubject=cooling

 

Yeah I know the thread, I was on it I believe.

No, the system is fine. The sensor is on the hotest point - right as it comes out of the engine below the themrostat housing (where the stock one is also). My system is the double sheeve pulleys, relocated oil cooler, no restrictor or thermostat, plugged bypass hole, extensive duct work and a massive afco aluminum radiator.

You never want to run these over 205, the timing begins to get retarded. I found that out three races ago, and then went nuts with the cooling system.

thanks SCCAITS!

 

Autozone can special-order a 160 thermostat for you.

 

where did you relocate your oil cooler? got any pics of the duct work? I was going to do re-do my cooling duct work and am open to ideas. I've got the bumper at the paint shop so nows a good time. Thanks!

 

What I did was move it so that it is vertical, and moved it down about an inch. The air moving through the oil cooler is ducted down and exits under the radiator, not through it. I have seen alot of guys that still have all the 230* air from the oil cooler going into the bottom (coolest part) of the radiator. I then made a duct that grabs air from under the car and feeds the oil cooler, nothing from the grill gets to the oil cooler, that all goes to the radiator. Then it exits under the radiator.

I will take some pics for you tommarow. Thanks for the interest!

 

Interesting what you did. I am one of those guys that has the hot air from the cooler going through the radiator. My deal works but I want a better setup, my temps are around 200. My cooling duct work is pushing the ITS rules but since I have no other ITS cars to run against in my DIV or really any IT cars for that matter it's not an issue, plus I've preferred NASA lately. The rest of my car is by the book. My setup is thin aluminum riveted on top and on the bottom so all air coming in the grill and under the car has no place to go but through the oil cooler and radiator. Seams, edges, holes are all covered with metal tape. It's all I could come up with to keep temps reasonable. Prior to this I was 220+ on a cold day, even with the Ron Davis radiator. It's almost 100% airtight. I'd prefer a more effective setup like you did and would appreciate any pics you would share. Thanks!