As the title says I am wondering where I could send my pfc for repair. I have searched but cant find anything, thanks.

-Chance

 

I know a guy who is going through this right now. If you call up Apex'i and send it to their US office, they will ship it to Japan to be repaired which takes a couple months. I think the guy I was talking to (he has a 240sx with SR20DET) sent it to some company in Australia.

 

Well I am going to try some testing but I am almost positive it is the power fc. I really dont want to send it out of the country and have my car down forever, thanks.

Anyone else have experience with getting a pfc repaired?

 

no one?

 

It is normal to contact the companty that makes a product if you do not have a warranty card. After all, they control these things. That is at lease for specialized electronics like the PFC is.

Common electronics can be repaired by almost any electronics repair place which can be found in the yellow pages for your location.

ARGHX told you what to do in his second sentence. Don't you trust him, I do as he is one of better newer owners here.

DAPADAQ!

 

Well what happened is that I was supposed to tune a D-jetro (speed density conversion) SR20DET s14 240sx a couple months ago. The day before I came over, the guy's "electrical guru" friend was trying to help him fix the fuel pump circuit because another "guru" had wired it straight to ignition power, bypassing the stock fuel pump relay. So many SR20 swaps are just a mess. Anyway, somehow he fried the PFC. I got in there and metered everything according to actual SR20DET wiring diagrams in English, and the thing was toast.

I don't have enough knowledge to diagnose and repair it, and the owner didn't trust anyone locally. So he called Apex'i and they said they ship it to Japan. It wouldn't be that expensive, it would just take up to a few months. But then the owner found out about some Australian company that can supposedly do it quicker but they charge more money. I think he sent the PFC off a few weeks ago and I haven't heard back from the guy yet.

If you've got some savings, buy another one used. Send the busted one off to Apex'i, and when it comes back repaired you can turn around and sell it.

 

Thanks Arghx, it looks like that is the path I will have to go. My power fc works its just after some driving my peak hold on my watertemp quits working then the water temp will sometimes go all over the place, leading to the car running to rich and bogging. I dont see how it could be anything else because the peak hold is an internal feature. Also sometimes my air temp peak hold will quit but this is only when the watertemp is acting really bad.

I called apexi today but the guy who knows about power fc's was out at sema so I will have to call back tomorrow.

-Chance

 

Peak hold is only a display function and not a control function.
It remembers the maximum value for any of the displayed parameters and shows them.


If your water temps and air temps are jumping around, you might have bad sensors, bad wiring, or poor PC grounding. Peak hold has nothing to do to cause them.

You should try watching the sensor screen voltages for air and water temps to actually see what is happening.
The voltage is converted to temperature.

 

Just seen this post. Yes nobody repairs Power FC in the U.S. I deal with Rmagic who has a good relationship with Apexi and they are only about 10min apart from each other.

I have had to send mine back two times now because I had it transfered to a FD version from a FC version and then had to have it changed back. Cost was 200dollars and it took about one month. I was also informed that since Apexi dosen't make the FC version anymore they will not repair them but I got hooked up. Just some general information that might concern some other members out here.

 

I might be in the same boat. OEM computer fires up single turbo setup, idles nicely. Put in FC, DL, LC-1 w/gauge, fires up....2 seconds later, shuts down. I am new to FD's and turbo's in general. I have been told could be a bad FC. Anyone willing to try mine with their set up?

 

I know its not, I just was thinking nothing is tied to them and that they are functions the pfc does. I am going to check my grounds this may be the issue since I recently relocated my battery, thanks.

-Chance

 

You need to get a Datalogit and log those actual temperatures and other readings over time to see if they agree with what you are seeing on your Commander.

 

The PFC grounds are the ones you should be looking at. They are located in the main harness near the PFC.

 

I also have seen a weird powerfc issue. With one powerfc, the car runs perfectly. Install another powerfc, load the map on it, and it sort of starts and barely runs for 1-2 seconds before it dies. Looks like its dead too.

thewird

 

Here is what mine is doing now, has gotten progressively worse until now it wont even read. I would think its the sensor but the peak hold was like that even when it would read temps(not always just when problem started)

 

The powerFC does that when the sensor is bad or the wiring is bad to the sensor. I wouldn't assume its a bad powerfc.

thewird

 

1. you have zero knock because the engine is either idling or isn't running. judging by the TPS voltages I would say you just have a cold engine (fast idle cam is still up) here.

2. you are reading negative boost because of ambient conditions. The pressure sensor reading is not normalized for changes in barometric pressure (altitude or weather systems). So it's going to vary from day-to-day, even if you have a custom MAP sensor calibration for your altitude

The reason why your "peak" value is -31 but your displayed value is -33 , is because -31 mm Hg corresponds to higher absolute pressure, and for a brief second the sensor may have read that.

3. You have a water thermosensor related problem, check the harness

4. You're in Washington and it's November, that air temp reading is probably right.

 

Do you have a deleted OMP? According to that last screen you do. If not, you have another issue to deal with.

 

Yes I had it unplugged.

 

Yes I would agree but when it started it was just the peak hold doing that and the sensor would work and then sometimes would jump around.

 

Where is this sensor located on the block, I have been told it is to the left of the alternator under it but I believe that is the fan thermo switch as where I need the sensor that the ecu reads, am I wrong? Thanks for all your help btw.

-Chance

 

^ I know it's on the back of the waterpump housing on the FC, with a green connector. I presume it is in a similar location on the FD, but I have never had to remove one before.