Power FC where to send pfc for repair
#2
rotorhead
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I know a guy who is going through this right now. If you call up Apex'i and send it to their US office, they will ship it to Japan to be repaired which takes a couple months. I think the guy I was talking to (he has a 240sx with SR20DET) sent it to some company in Australia.
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Well I am going to try some testing but I am almost positive it is the power fc. I really dont want to send it out of the country and have my car down forever, thanks.
Anyone else have experience with getting a pfc repaired?
Anyone else have experience with getting a pfc repaired?
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It is normal to contact the companty that makes a product if you do not have a warranty card. After all, they control these things. That is at lease for specialized electronics like the PFC is.
Common electronics can be repaired by almost any electronics repair place which can be found in the yellow pages for your location.
ARGHX told you what to do in his second sentence. Don't you trust him, I do as he is one of better newer owners here.
DAPADAQ!
Common electronics can be repaired by almost any electronics repair place which can be found in the yellow pages for your location.
ARGHX told you what to do in his second sentence. Don't you trust him, I do as he is one of better newer owners here.
DAPADAQ!
#6
rotorhead
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Well what happened is that I was supposed to tune a D-jetro (speed density conversion) SR20DET s14 240sx a couple months ago. The day before I came over, the guy's "electrical guru" friend was trying to help him fix the fuel pump circuit because another "guru" had wired it straight to ignition power, bypassing the stock fuel pump relay. So many SR20 swaps are just a mess. Anyway, somehow he fried the PFC. I got in there and metered everything according to actual SR20DET wiring diagrams in English, and the thing was toast.
I don't have enough knowledge to diagnose and repair it, and the owner didn't trust anyone locally. So he called Apex'i and they said they ship it to Japan. It wouldn't be that expensive, it would just take up to a few months. But then the owner found out about some Australian company that can supposedly do it quicker but they charge more money. I think he sent the PFC off a few weeks ago and I haven't heard back from the guy yet.
If you've got some savings, buy another one used. Send the busted one off to Apex'i, and when it comes back repaired you can turn around and sell it.
I don't have enough knowledge to diagnose and repair it, and the owner didn't trust anyone locally. So he called Apex'i and they said they ship it to Japan. It wouldn't be that expensive, it would just take up to a few months. But then the owner found out about some Australian company that can supposedly do it quicker but they charge more money. I think he sent the PFC off a few weeks ago and I haven't heard back from the guy yet.
If you've got some savings, buy another one used. Send the busted one off to Apex'i, and when it comes back repaired you can turn around and sell it.
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Thanks Arghx, it looks like that is the path I will have to go. My power fc works its just after some driving my peak hold on my watertemp quits working then the water temp will sometimes go all over the place, leading to the car running to rich and bogging. I dont see how it could be anything else because the peak hold is an internal feature. Also sometimes my air temp peak hold will quit but this is only when the watertemp is acting really bad.
I called apexi today but the guy who knows about power fc's was out at sema so I will have to call back tomorrow.
-Chance
I called apexi today but the guy who knows about power fc's was out at sema so I will have to call back tomorrow.
-Chance
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#8
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It remembers the maximum value for any of the displayed parameters and shows them.
If your water temps and air temps are jumping around, you might have bad sensors, bad wiring, or poor PC grounding. Peak hold has nothing to do to cause them.
You should try watching the sensor screen voltages for air and water temps to actually see what is happening.
The voltage is converted to temperature.
#9
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Just seen this post. Yes nobody repairs Power FC in the U.S. I deal with Rmagic who has a good relationship with Apexi and they are only about 10min apart from each other.
I have had to send mine back two times now because I had it transfered to a FD version from a FC version and then had to have it changed back. Cost was 200dollars and it took about one month. I was also informed that since Apexi dosen't make the FC version anymore they will not repair them but I got hooked up. Just some general information that might concern some other members out here.
I have had to send mine back two times now because I had it transfered to a FD version from a FC version and then had to have it changed back. Cost was 200dollars and it took about one month. I was also informed that since Apexi dosen't make the FC version anymore they will not repair them but I got hooked up. Just some general information that might concern some other members out here.
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I might be in the same boat. OEM computer fires up single turbo setup, idles nicely. Put in FC, DL, LC-1 w/gauge, fires up....2 seconds later, shuts down. I am new to FD's and turbo's in general. I have been told could be a bad FC. Anyone willing to try mine with their set up?
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Peak hold is only a display function and not a control function.
It remembers the maximum value for any of the displayed parameters and shows them.
If your water temps and air temps are jumping around, you might have bad sensors, bad wiring, or poor PC grounding. Peak hold has nothing to do to cause them.
You should try watching the sensor screen voltages for air and water temps to actually see what is happening.
The voltage is converted to temperature.
It remembers the maximum value for any of the displayed parameters and shows them.
If your water temps and air temps are jumping around, you might have bad sensors, bad wiring, or poor PC grounding. Peak hold has nothing to do to cause them.
You should try watching the sensor screen voltages for air and water temps to actually see what is happening.
The voltage is converted to temperature.
-Chance
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Here is what mine is doing now, has gotten progressively worse until now it wont even read. I would think its the sensor but the peak hold was like that even when it would read temps(not always just when problem started)
#17
rotorhead
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1. you have zero knock because the engine is either idling or isn't running. judging by the TPS voltages I would say you just have a cold engine (fast idle cam is still up) here.
2. you are reading negative boost because of ambient conditions. The pressure sensor reading is not normalized for changes in barometric pressure (altitude or weather systems). So it's going to vary from day-to-day, even if you have a custom MAP sensor calibration for your altitude
The reason why your "peak" value is -31 but your displayed value is -33 , is because -31 mm Hg corresponds to higher absolute pressure, and for a brief second the sensor may have read that.
3. You have a water thermosensor related problem, check the harness
4. You're in Washington and it's November, that air temp reading is probably right.
2. you are reading negative boost because of ambient conditions. The pressure sensor reading is not normalized for changes in barometric pressure (altitude or weather systems). So it's going to vary from day-to-day, even if you have a custom MAP sensor calibration for your altitude
The reason why your "peak" value is -31 but your displayed value is -33 , is because -31 mm Hg corresponds to higher absolute pressure, and for a brief second the sensor may have read that.
3. You have a water thermosensor related problem, check the harness
4. You're in Washington and it's November, that air temp reading is probably right.
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1. you have zero knock because the engine is either idling or isn't running. judging by the TPS voltages I would say you just have a cold engine (fast idle cam is still up) here.
2. you are reading negative boost because of ambient conditions. The pressure sensor reading is not normalized for changes in barometric pressure (altitude or weather systems). So it's going to vary from day-to-day, even if you have a custom MAP sensor calibration for your altitude
The reason why your "peak" value is -31 but your displayed value is -33 , is because -31 mm Hg corresponds to higher absolute pressure, and for a brief second the sensor may have read that.
3. You have a water thermosensor related problem, check the harness
4. You're in Washington and it's November, that air temp reading is probably right.
2. you are reading negative boost because of ambient conditions. The pressure sensor reading is not normalized for changes in barometric pressure (altitude or weather systems). So it's going to vary from day-to-day, even if you have a custom MAP sensor calibration for your altitude
The reason why your "peak" value is -31 but your displayed value is -33 , is because -31 mm Hg corresponds to higher absolute pressure, and for a brief second the sensor may have read that.
3. You have a water thermosensor related problem, check the harness
4. You're in Washington and it's November, that air temp reading is probably right.
-Chance
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