Power FC Symptoms of Too Much Fuel
(1) fouling plugs or plugs covered with heavy dry black soot
(2) black fumes from exhaust when accelerating
(3) misfiring
(4) lower power
(5) poor mileage
(6) AFRs higher than 14.7 at idle and cruise
(7) AFRs higher than 10.5 on boost
(8) embarashment when 200HP Hondas beat you
(2) black fumes from exhaust when accelerating
(3) misfiring
(4) lower power
(5) poor mileage
(6) AFRs higher than 14.7 at idle and cruise
(7) AFRs higher than 10.5 on boost
(8) embarashment when 200HP Hondas beat you
Thanks Chuck,
I can always count on you for advise. Item 8 is yet to happen but the rest seem to point towards too much fuel. One thing i notice is then when i WOT on any gear there is some sort of hesitation then slow pull building revs!! I miss the times when i crunch the pedal and instantly i'm flying down the h'way. You reckon this could also be because of exessive fuel. I've just changed over to 8's and 9's NGK Plugs. Anyway this could be and issue. Thanks mate.
dave
I can always count on you for advise. Item 8 is yet to happen but the rest seem to point towards too much fuel. One thing i notice is then when i WOT on any gear there is some sort of hesitation then slow pull building revs!! I miss the times when i crunch the pedal and instantly i'm flying down the h'way. You reckon this could also be because of exessive fuel. I've just changed over to 8's and 9's NGK Plugs. Anyway this could be and issue. Thanks mate.
dave
My items 6 & 7 are really backwards unless you can see what I really ment.
Actualy a richer mixture will give a lower AFR.
They should be:
(6) AFRs lower than 14.7 at idle and cruise
(7) AFRs lower than 10.5 on boost
Plug temps either cause missfiring from being too cold, or pre-ignition from being too hot. I do not think its the plugs.
Get hold of a O2 wideband and check it out.
Now if your ignition system is going bad, it could cause misfiring.
Actualy a richer mixture will give a lower AFR.
They should be:
(6) AFRs lower than 14.7 at idle and cruise
(7) AFRs lower than 10.5 on boost
Plug temps either cause missfiring from being too cold, or pre-ignition from being too hot. I do not think its the plugs.
Get hold of a O2 wideband and check it out.
Now if your ignition system is going bad, it could cause misfiring.
Last edited by cewrx7r1; Jul 11, 2005 at 02:17 PM.
Fd3s, That Souns Similar To My Symptoms That I Have On My Car Which I Believe To Be Faulty Secondary Injectors, Mostly Cause Its After 2750 Rpms. Just Wants To Bog And Pull Slowly Until Redline.
one thing i've noticed though of late is that in gear (all gears) wnd i rev up to 3k+ rpm the exhaust heat light starts flickering. Goes away when i ease off the pedal. Also i do not have the check engine light on my car which is weird. Been that way since i got the car (which is more than 5 years now) Any input much appreciated.
just another quick uodate. the heat light flickers more when on 2nd & 3rd gear at approximately 1850-1950rpm. Goes right away when i ease off the pedal. Also noticed its getting progeressively harder to start the car. It fires up but takes longer. does this make any sense?
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Either your alternator is going bad, or your main engine ground is bad.
You should not have any voltage fluctuations like that.
Measure the voltage across the battery when idling, should be about 14.1volts.
Start the car and then remove one of the battery cables. The car should be able to run just off the alternator.
You should not have any voltage fluctuations like that.
Measure the voltage across the battery when idling, should be about 14.1volts.
Start the car and then remove one of the battery cables. The car should be able to run just off the alternator.
car runs fine with battery cables off. did a reset on pfc (i believe the procedure is the same as our ecu's-negative off and brakes for 10 seconds) and the car now pulls perfectly. any idea why this is happening ? Chuck?
If all you did was remove the battery gound for a while, reconnect, and now everthing works fine; then maybe the ecu had been subjected to sometype of high voltage surge or static electricity.
I have had similar things happen to my Pioneer surround sound decoder if lightning strikes were close by. Had to unplug and replug the unit to make it work properly. It was as if some short term memory in it was confused.
I have had similar things happen to my Pioneer surround sound decoder if lightning strikes were close by. Had to unplug and replug the unit to make it work properly. It was as if some short term memory in it was confused.
Originally Posted by cewrx7r1
(1) fouling plugs or plugs covered with heavy dry black soot
(2) black fumes from exhaust when accelerating
(3) misfiring
(4) lower power
(5) poor mileage
(6) AFRs higher than 14.7 at idle and cruise
(7) AFRs higher than 10.5 on boost
(8) embarashment when 200HP Hondas beat you
(2) black fumes from exhaust when accelerating
(3) misfiring
(4) lower power
(5) poor mileage
(6) AFRs higher than 14.7 at idle and cruise
(7) AFRs higher than 10.5 on boost
(8) embarashment when 200HP Hondas beat you
Are you still getting the heat light flickering after the reset? On JDM cars the PFC flashes the heat light when it detects knock, since there is no check engine lamp like on the US cars. You can check the knock readings on the commander if you have it.
Originally Posted by Guyver
Are you still getting the heat light flickering after the reset? On JDM cars the PFC flashes the heat light when it detects knock, since there is no check engine lamp like on the US cars. You can check the knock readings on the commander if you have it.
I appreciate your input mate.If there's anything specific i should be looking at whilst at the tuners kindly chime in. TIA
Regards,
dave
I have similar symptoms, it almost feels like a slipping clutch, the boost gets up to about 14 and hesitates and oscillates, when getting up to high rpm's it's a dog, I know it is capable of better. However, there are rare instances where I get a nice second gear pull.
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