Okay I'm nuts I know. Anyways, I ran 20.3 PSI on the stock 2 bar map sensor. AFR was 10.5-11.1 all the way through with no problems.

Just giving my little report.

 

Funny thing. I did notice that my commander only displayed boost until 1.15 bar.

 

Why would you do that when you can get a 3 bar for 50 bucks? Looks like you have some money tied up in your car. Why gamble?

 

Worse thing that could happen is a bit of overboost. Once you've maxxed out the sensor you run the final fuel map row regardless of how high your boost is.

I just put in a 3 bar for that unexpected boost excursion, if it happens (again) my fuel maps will go rich as hell.

 

You'll also run rich at boost values between 1.15 and (20.3/14.22) kg/cm^2. Don't give up tuning control -- get the 3 bar sensor.

-Max

 

I've got the 3 bar sensor already. I'm just waiting for my friend jeff48 to let me use his datalogit so he can square everything away. I wanted to play with the boost today so before long I was at 20.3 psi and it was actually at a nice afr. I'm going to go ahead and run it at the track tommorow (Saturday) and see what she does. What's the most that can happen? Might break a $45 seal? No biggie.

 

Do you mean a $4500 seal? Tough to only break one part and fixing just that part is not in the cards for us rotary guys.

 

Problem there...is that you're very rich at the real 1.15kg/cm2 pressure....you must have added quite a bit of fuel to be safe for ~20psi...Be careful !!!

Map sensor and ECU does not recognize anything past 1.15kg/cm2...therefore fuel and ignition maps will be at 1.15kg/cm2 regardless how high in boost you go....

You may be safe but timing might be too high for higher boost.

Later,

 

why did the pfc commander only read 1.15 bar? Is it because of the 2 bar stock map sensor? My friend's single turbo FD also hit 1.15 bar on the commander but it said 18 psi on the sbc id

 

Okay, don't do what I did. I broke my motor today.

 

Sorry to hear that Resource.

I was thinking more about the MAP-sensor-doesn't-read-high-enough setup and it occurred to me that it would really screw up the readings in a datalog, too. If you are right at 1.15, you'll get a bunch of rich readings that could screw up your average readings for those cells, leading you to lean them out too much if you are using the logs and some pivot table analysis to adjust your maps.

Of course, 20+ psi might just be too much boost anyway for your fuel's octane, etc. so it doesn't automatically mean that it was the MAP sensor issue that killed your motor. Whatever the cause, sorry about what happened.

-Max

 

A little twist here, a little break there and some pop here isn't going to hurt anything. Trial and error, I'm willing

 

Wow...

 

Well guess we all know now.

 

Yep, it was in the 12.1 A/R Range from 4G and below and 11.4 range there on up. What happened was is that I got through first gear spinning, 2nd spinning and as soon as I shifted into 3rd gear and hit the gas it broke. I don't think I had but maybe a couple psi of boost on it when it actually blew. I guess it had enough load on it with the 12.1 A/R lower RPMS coupled up with the 93 Octane, that did it

I looked in the exhaust port and I have an apex seal completely missing from the rotor. It supised me because I usually just seal a corner seal busted here and there. Oh well.

 

I thought your sig said Methanol?

 

It does, I have everything I just never got around to getting my lower intake runners tapped and installed so I ran it without it. We're going to tapp the lower intake runners to accept some fan nozzles and saphire jets so I'll def will be running the methanol injection this time around.

Like I said, it's all about trial and error and a little bit of drunkeness

 

a LITTLE drunkeness? hehehe

 

So did the turbine survive the apex seal debris?

 

The turbo is perfect. I broke a hurley seal and dented the rotor.

 

double post

 

Actually I ran 21psi according to my Autometer with no probs (knocking on wood bigtime) for about a week. Everything was ok (again knocking on wood). And like his my PFC maxed at 1.15 but I had enough fuel in there that I was getting 11.3 a/f I was also running 12degree L at peak tq and 14 degrees of split. Yea that is real conservative but when your running 21psi on straight pump it needs to be lol

There is one thing I would like to say though....not trying to be ugly but 2mm Hurley seals are crap and break SUPER easy compared to stock. Sure they MIGHT not hurt anything but thats just cause they a weak as hell. I can snap them with my fingers and you'll never do that with oem seals. I blew up 2 Hurley engines running 15psi within around 3 months. If I were you I'd switch over to OEM seals. Also, my hurley seals took out my turbos big time. The only way you can tell is by removing them from the turbine housing so you can see the entire turbine wheel and shaft.

STEPHEN

 

Yeah. pull your turbine housing.. bet it is toast.


Sorry to hear..


-Zach

 

Turbine is perfect like I said. This was the 6 hurley seal that I have broken. I'm replacing them with OEM seals now so they will be here tommorow morning so I should be up and running tommorow evening.

 

HaHa, sounds like me and you were on the same path lol

About the turbine wheel, most people think they can just look at it from the dp hole and see if its ok. Thats why I mentioned it, I just wanted to make sure you knew you had to remove the turbine wheel completely from the housing to be able to tell if there is damage. I'm very suprised they didnt take out your wheel...they took at least one of mine out every time.

I just noticed the T51KAI in your sig, it has a much bigger and stronger wheel than twins, thats prob why those weak Hurley's didnt break it lol

BTW - How much power you making with that turbo at those boost levels???

Later,
STEPHEN