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Power FC PowerFC with 9.5LB Flywheel?

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Old 04-18-02, 10:03 PM
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PowerFC with 9.5LB Flywheel?

I haven't seen anything about changing the map due to the lightweight flywheel.

Since installing the flywheel a few weeks ago, it stalls at lights and after it is up to normal operating temperature, when it stalls (or I shut it off shortly to run in the store) it is VERY hard to restart. It also seems to be backfiring more than before. (After up to temp)

I have the PowerFC, downpipe, Non-Seq stock turbos. Last summer Dave at KD tuned the PowerFC. I have never touched it until tonight, I bumped the IDLE up to 900. Hopefully it will not stall out now, but this still will not solve the Hard Starting problem. I saw another post that mentioned hard starting and changing the Timing to Retard or Advance the spark.

This would make some sense, the starter maybe turning the motor faster now with the lightweight flywheel. But why is it only when Hot (Normal operating temp) and not when it is cold in the morning or on the way home?

Thanks in advance,
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Old 04-18-02, 11:45 PM
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I was about to order the 9.5 lbs flywheel today.. good thing I read this post first. Hopefully someone knows the fix to this.
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Old 04-19-02, 12:55 AM
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I have a single turbo w/ 9.5 lb flywheel so I reset my throttle body completely. I adjused the idle screw, the throttle screw and the tightness of the throttle cable. Also look at raising your decel fuel return in the powerFC .. try something in the 1500 rpm range.
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Old 04-19-02, 07:46 AM
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According to your list, DP and non-seq are your only mods that affect power production. Not much over being stock. But they would help reduce back pressure, especially at idle. Your PFC should be set up as stock.
If you are backfiring, then you are running way too rich.
Maybe during the flywheel swap, something was affected. The flywheel could not make the engine backfire more or less unless the engine was in very bad condition or very bad tune.

Try what Spyfish007 mentioned. With my 8.5 lb RB flywheel, non-seq, and new engine, I had the opposite problem with the PFC. My engine wanted to idle too fast. I had to close everthing down. But mine was caused by superior air flow throught the whole intake system (much work done there) and by the straight 9s rotor chamber pressures.

Last edited by cewrx7r1; 04-20-02 at 12:17 AM.
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Old 04-19-02, 10:57 PM
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I have a 9.5 lb flywheel, it idles great.
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Old 04-22-02, 07:38 PM
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How exactly is it stalling?

For me, it wasn't idle that was the problem, it was clutching and then having the RPMs drop faster than with the heavier flywheel. So fast that by the time the deceleration fuel cut recovery kicks in, it's too late, the RPMs are headed south too fast, and the engine dies.

Like Spyfish said, 1500rpm or above. Mine's at 1600, and I STILL have issues with it sometimes. I usually clutch, watch it drop, and if it falls too far, feather it back out a bit to catch it.

Very annoying.
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Old 04-22-02, 08:17 PM
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Per Goblin's comments.

No, that is not what is happening to me.

My problem is when I am going to a Stop. Pretty much as soon as I put the clutch IN, the idle just drops like a rock.

Then after the car has warmed up to normal operating temperatures, it is VERY hard to start.

I got under the car and saw the 4 wire connectors metnioned in another post. They all appeared to be connected properly.

I called Force Fed Industries. They said to bring it by and they will put it on the lift and look at it. But from what I saw tonight, I don't think they will see any easy fix.

Looks like I maybe taking the 8 hour drive to KDRotary again this summer.

As far as the flywheel and the launches, it doesn't bother me, like it has already been stated, you just need a few more revs and/or to let the clutch out more slowly.

Thanks again,
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Old 04-22-02, 09:18 PM
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I had this problem years ago and found that adjusting the damper on the throttle linkage solved the stalling problem. There is a small damper on the throttle body that engages the throttle assembly when you jump off the gas pedal. The throttle assembly cannot go full closed instantly, it contacts the damper before full closed. If you adjust the damper you can slow the rate at which it closes.

To adjust, losen the lock nut, adjusted the damper toward the throttle assembly and then retighten. You may need to adjust it a few times to get it right.

Kyle
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