puma

iTrader: (2)

OK, i read everything and i have a question about the bypass mod

Some people talk about putting a boost sensor or a rpm switch so that the A/C would disengage when at WOT.

What is the main reason to do so, is it only because you want to have full power without having to press the switch to desactivate it or is it because going WOT with the A/C on could cause some sort of problem on either the engine or the A/C compressor?

thanks a lot

poss

iTrader: (5)

I think the consensus is that you'll damage the pump.

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

To prevent over-revving the A/C compressor. That is why all car companies do it as far as I know.

puma

iTrader: (2)

hmm ok, thanks for the answer.

rotorbrain

well, didnt know that. . . the powerfc doesnt turn the compressor off when making high rpm runs?

poss

iTrader: (5)

The PFC does cut it off at high rpm when it works right.

He is trying a bypass because the PFC is not engaging the magnetic clutch on it's own.

MPython

iTrader: (1)

My mechanic and I are looking at ways to let the PFC do this function. I am doing the bypass method right now, and my A/C is intermittent. When it works, it works well. More often than not, it doesn't work. It has been mentioned before... providing a good ground to the ECU, so it can pass it on to the A/C relay to engage the compressor. We'd bypass the A/C switch, but still use the fan speed switch and thermoswitch. I hope to test the "good ground" theory soon by simply grounding the output of the ECU that goes to the A/C relay.

Question for you guys... what kind of temps are your reading on the PFC when running A/C? Normally I run 85-87C under normal driving, even sitting in traffic, without A/C. With A/C, it could get as high as 102C (about what I'll get to when autocrossing). At that point, I'd just turn off the A/C to cool the car down. Part of the problem may be that I've still got the stock radiator.