I just got my 7 back together after 8 months of body work working on a bunch of things.

Mods:

RW throttle body
550 primaries
1300 secondaries
BNR turbos
GM 3 bar map sensor
HKS twin power
Aeromotive 340 pump

I'm just trying to get her to idle. She'll start no problem but the idle is crazy. I reinitialized the PFC from the original map and no change. I already calibrated and set the TPS within specs. Set the PIM voltage to option 2. Changed the spark plugs out with 9s. O2 feedback is turned off since I have a wideband.

If you guys need some AFR logs, you're gonna have to give me a minute because I removed the stock O2 since I got a wideband but the damn PLX modules don't want to work right now. That's another project already on my huge list.

I just need to get her to idle so I can get her on a trailer to the tuner, or I could get a winch, lol.

I really have no idea what I'm doing in reference to tuning. I have a dataloggit and can get whatever information you guys need to help me out.

Here is a short run log of what was going on while she was idle hunting:

 

You could drop the TPS a hair lower (it's reading 1.1), but it likely wouldn't cause a significant change. Do you still have the idle valve connected? Looks similar to most any other idle hunting issue -- too much air/too lean. Do you have idle control enabled on the PFC?

 

Nope, I removed everything that I didn't consider necessary; that was one of them.

I have all other emissions trash removed as well, no AWS, IAC, BAC,

I tried to get the TPS full rage a little lower but it would make the narrow range go out of spec so I just got it back in and kept it there.

For the IAC valve control in the dataloggit software, is it in Settings 1, Idle-IG Cntrl? Under O2 F/B Control?
If I give the car any amount of throttle, it'll stall.

One time however, I did just rotate the throttle body by hand and it didn't rev at all, just kept idle hunting and when I closed the TB, it stalled. I was amazed.

 

just did a little more trouble shooting....I don't have any vacuum hoses connected except for the MAP sensor and the FPR.

So....I used a bunch of caps and plugged up all the open nipples on the UIM. She idled a little better, still hunting.

But, I rotated the throttle body by hand again, nothing. All the way to WOT and she stayed idle hunting. Closed the TB slowly, didn't stall, just kept idling like she does. Weird.

On the PFC, it was recording that I was moving the TPS and the voltage changed, I don't remember if it was between 4.8 to 5.0 at WOT, but either way, it should have tried to rev.

 

Something doesn't quite add up. You have a single butterfly rotary works TB? Opening the throttle does nothing at all to the idle? That either means that you have the biggest vacuum leak in the world or there's something up with that throttle body.

Having all of those open vacuum sources is going to cause all kinds of issues with idle. You'll need to get all of the vacuum routing sorted and taken care of so there are no leaks or sources of air other than the throttle body and it's bypass screw.

Idle-IGN typically just adjusts the timing at idle, you can try it either on or off. However, you're experiencing the typical behavior of an extremely lean idle (the hunt/stall), which seems to be related to the fact that opening that the car will not respond to being given more air.

 

I do have the RW throttle body and yes, when I rotated the butterfly valve by hand, it didn't do anything.

So I see where it could cause massive issues. The contradiction of the massive amount of air I'm getting in the engine by not having the vacuum hoses connected and the voltage of the TPS is causing the ECU to try and compensate.

I'll get all the solenoids and vacuum hoses routed and report back. I was also going to check to see if I had a leaking primary or secondary injector.

Also, I check my MAP sensor connector and I bought it used from another forum member, well, he made the connector pigtail jacked up so the pins will push out when you plug it in to the MAP sensor, that's probably not helping my issues.

Got a bunch of stuff to check and ill get back to you.

 

Did you set the values for the GM 3 Bar after initialization?

Option 2 is preset for the Denso 3 bar in the base map.

 

I think you still have a massive vacuum leak

 

I set it for Option 1, sorry, it was a typo. I can't remember right now but it was the option under normal which I believe is option 1. I'll recheck it though just to make sure.

I believe I have a massive vacuum leak too. I was just being lazy and started the car without any of the vacuum hoses connected that control the turbo system except for the map sensor and the FPR.

But like I said, I have a bunch of things to troubleshoot and i'll report back. I have a busy week ahead of me. Getting up at 0330 for work doesn't help so by the time I'm back from work I'm exhausted.

I should be good to work on her this weekend though.

 

If you did not manually change the offset and scale then the map sensor is set up wrong.

 

What is the value and offset?

 

Interesting thing happened the other day.

I finally got around to connecting all the solenoids and vacuum hoses.

i was messing around with the PFC to make sure the MAP sensor value was correct and if I set the MAP sensor value to normal, my turbo precontrol solenoid will start clicking, with the car off, and will continue to just click until I change the MAP setting to something else. Obviously i won't be using that MAP value but I wanted to know if anyone else has experienced something like this.

I'm still waiting on a new pigtail for the MAP sensor then we'll see if all this stuff will work when it starts up.

 

Mazda's FD TPS Standards are:
VTA1: closed 0.10 to 0.70, open 4.2 to 4.6.
VTA2: closed 0.75 to 1.25, open 4.8 to 5.0.

 

If it's hunting and there are no leaks try adding 10% more fuel to see if it settles,

Also I always come across people that have setthe fuel cut lower then the idle make sure f/c -ae is higher then the actual desired idle as this will cause hunt.set all fuel cut (FC) tables to around 2000 to rule them out.

RW throttle bodies can be a pain to get right even for experienced tuners

 

Perhaps I can help...

First of all, here are the settings for the GM 3 bar MAP (this is from my personal documentation from my days at A'PEX many moons ago. You may want to call them and double check the numbers):


Next, the PFC has a "self learn" function for the idle in which you let it hunt around until it "learns" the car. Im not sure how long you let it idle for but if you initialized the unit, it may have been performing the self learn procedure. This should be noted in the instruction manual if you have it.
Ref: Apexi PowerFC FAQ

Another issue may be your upgraded injectors. Have you set the correction factors for them? Its a pretty straight forward process. Again documented in the instruction manual (Id suggest downloading it from A'PEX's website if you dont have it).
Ref: Apexi PowerFC FAQ

Lastly, the vacuum leaks...fix em.

Hope this provides some momentum in the right direction. GL!

 

Learn function is about 10 mins idling then 10 mins with electrical load then 10 mins a/c on but this only works other strings are right and car has no leaks.

 

Also your temps are low,you want to make adjustments above 80 so no corrections are on

 

I found out, with even the GM 3 bar connected, if I initialize the PFC and don't correct for the boost sensor, it idles much better and I think it goes through the self learning process.

I just select option 1 and it idles much better than setting it manually to 6525 with a 0 offset.

It still idle hunts but it's only going between 600-1100

I think I just need to be a little more patient with it. I haven't had much time to tinker around with her lately and I just figured this stuff out tonight.

I'll see what I can figure out tomorrow after work.

 

ok, with PFC set to option 1 with the GM 3 bar, the car will idle hunt between 600-1100 no problem.

Car has no problems starting.

If I rotate the throttle body quickly it'll stall. If I do it slowly it'll gradually rev up to about 3000 and no more.

I'm thinking about just throwing in the towel and sending the car to rotorsports racing for them to deal with it....

 

Incorrect MAP sensor setting, you have selected the Denso which is not the correct scale and offset for a gm 3 bar

 

^while I appreciate your input, you keep telling me that I have the incorrect offset and value for my MAP sensor without providing me the correct one. That's a little frustrating. I have the black box dataloggit which I know has different values than beige one.

I did previously set the offset to 6525 with an offset of 0 and the car would go crazy and idle hunt like it did before when I posted the log.

A little more insight would be appreciated.

 

how about 6750 with an offset of 250? after a lil google search.

 

ok....earlier you said that when i selected option 2 was for the Denso 3 bar. Now that i have selected option 1 your saying it's for the Denso 3 bar?

you've contradicted yourself and now i'm all sorts of confused.

either way though, whichever option i select, if i changed the values it shouldn't matter right?

 

Listen up. I am not going to spoon feed you the information to make your car run. It is abundantly clear you have not a single clue what you are doing. From hooking up your fuel lines incorrectly (and "knowing they are correct", which they were NOT), to trying to start your car without vacuum caps (because you are "lazy"), to forcing your car to run on the incorrect map sensor setting because you are not capable of tuning a PFC or the RW Throttle body

A lot of people confuse option 1 for option 2 since option 1 is the second option (Normal, option 1, option2, Etc) . Knowing that you have countless threads depicting your inability to work on your car, I made the assumption that you had made clerical error stating option 2 at the beginning of your thread. Normal is the FD, option 1 is Apexi/denso 3 bar, option 2 is open and what most people use for the GM 3 bar, but it must be set up correctly to run.

Keep trying to force your car to run with the incorrect map sensor settings and you will be pulling the engine out. Last word of advise I am going to give you, put the stock throttle back on, get your car running properly, then mess with the RW TB.

Good luck with your car pal. Keep up the attitude and only the trolls will be responding to your threads.

 

How about you listen up. Just because you provide a decent vendor service to this forum does not give you the right to speak like that and assume I've done absolutely everything wrong.

Information is the reason forums were developed and your attitude is completely negating that whole philosophy.

I was simply asking for a little more information on your part (which is apparently wrong in your perspective) since you kept telling me that I had the wrong values set.

I mean, really dude? Calm down and get off your high horse.

I'm simply asking for assistance. It's not like you've told me to do something and I told you to **** off.

But whatever bro. I'm over it.

As for the fuel lines issue, notice how IRP helped me out a lot more than you did. He was actually helpful and you....had the exact same tone as before; condescending. Why do you even post on these forums if you don't actually help?

Mods might as well close this thread as apparently information to help others is not going to come from it.