BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

What is considered the max outerlimits of safe knock?

WOT in 3rd (streeport, TD06 single) I hit 66 while logging. I haven't done a whole lot to my maps, except play with the timing a bit to make things a bit safer until I get dyno tuned. I followed the "how to make your PFC safer/idle better" thread in the 3rd gen section.

I'm monitoring my AFR's, they are high 10's low 11's right now. Like I said... keeping it safe.

I find I get more knock in 3rd WOT than 4th and 5th WOT. I've logged and adjusted the timing a bit more but it dosen't really do a whole lot, only like 4 or 5 difference in knock.

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

and that's the highest BTW.

on average, knock is b/w 10-39ish half throttle to 3/4ish pulls.

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

I do not like to see knock over 30 under full boost and I tune for that. But 2 degrees timing reduction can drop it from 50-60 to down to under 20. I have seen 60-80 while tuning and the engines never blew.

If you are on the edge in summer, you will most likely go over it in winter. Thus it is best to tune in winter for max knock. Then tune winter and summer to be able to have a linear and accurate Air Temp vs INJ table.

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

how would you say to adjust for that right now?

I've seen some people just highlight the whole map and "-" it a few times.


keep in mind this is VERY temporary, like two weeks temporary. There is no one local who can tune the PFC (or at least I trust to tune it)... so I'm trying to figure out who to go to in the states... so far I'm think corksport?

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

You have to determine if it's knock that your seeing or just noise. Acceptable knock is relative to what your normal knock is as well as when the knock occurs. I keep my knock below 40 for my setup, but I haven't had a need to worry about it cause its down around 20 most of the time at 20 psi and water injection.

Since your knock is during a WOT run in 3rd, you should look at what RPM it occurs and check the fuel and timing there. Try adjusting it, if it doesn't change much it's probably a noise being picked up somewhere. Also check your air temperatures, if they are sky high it can induce more knock. You also didn't mention how much boost you're running, if you're running over 15 psi on pump gas alone then this could be your issue too.

If you do a search on knock you will see a lot of information. Sometimes knock sensors just don't work right and spew out all kinds of random numbers. For the longest time my knock sensor just read 1, so i tuned to what I felt was safe without looking at knock, then I changed some things around and it started working, now it works perfectly and I can take it into account when tuning.

It sounds like your tune is safe but I would look into it a bit if you have a higher number in the same area while having much lower numbers everywhere else. Also look into things that could rattle or are loose, these could be quiet until a certain resonance frequency based on rpm and load then out of no where cause some buzz that is picked up as knock.

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

yes, the numbers are very low all over. they just spike now and then. sometimes 49, sometimes 66...51 etc. For the most part it seems pretty reliable, I don't get any weird numbers like 100 or over (which would just be ambient noise). I am most likely going to get a new sensor and re locate it to the rear housing to be safe in the near future.

I am only running wastegate pressure which is approx 10PSI but creeps a bit to 11PSI. This is on 94 octane.

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

also, as regard to AIT. I am running the dinky stock one until my FMIC arrives. So AITs are usually around 45-50 on the PFC.

Would you suggest getting one of those fast reacting sensors and re locate it to the elbow? Will that make things safer when it comes to temps?

I live in Vancouver, where it's 35c in the summer and -10c in the winter and all over in between.

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

I prefer the fast sensors since the stock one heat soaks and is all around just slow. It takes awhile for the temp to come down or move up. The stock intercooler isn't very good either but at low boost and 40-50c shouldn't contribute to knock. Thats also pretty rich afr's for 10 psi. I ran 11.8 at 10 psi. So your tune should be safe. Only thing left is timing. Pm me if you want one of those sensors.

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

If you do get a fast reacting sensor i would leave it in the stock location. If you keep the stock one i would shave it down and relocate it to the elbow, but the correction tables will need more work if u do that.

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

ya, all I need right now is "safe"....

are the AIT sensors plug and play?


Also, is there anywhere else to adjust timing than just on the map? Crewrx7R1 said dropping the timing 2 degrees can drop it signifigantly, but It didn't do that much after I made a few adjustments to the map. Are we talking about different timing?

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

Ignition timing. The sensors are almost plug and play, you have to put a different connector on but its only 2 wires and they go either way.

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

what section in FC Edit, and should I just knock it back (- the number) by one or two and see how it goes?

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

IGL and IGT you have to adjust both. Can you post up your map so we can see what you have? Send us the unadjusted map so we can see why you might have knock.

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

OK, so I've only adjusted my IGL. I think that's the issue.






For fuel... I'm running 850's all around and ATM they are running 44base pressure.




Also, on a completely off topic question... any recommendation for INJ vs TPS to help with the hesitation at tip in?

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

Can you post the dat file so I can look it up on my fcedit?

You're missing the base map image for fuel and it hasn't been recalculated so its hard to look at. Also it's hard to look at the spilt without the check mark for split checked in.

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

sure I'm at work right now, so when I get home I'll email you the DAT. PM me your email addy.

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

Dudemaaanownsanrx7@yahoo.com

silverfdturbo6port

iTrader: (26)

that makes not sense at all the best time to tune is during a hot day with all loads on like head lights ect.... when its hot and you tune thats goingt o be better adn safer cuz the AIT's are already hot when it gets cold out your car is only going to get richer and run cooler thats the whole point in running colder plugs... if the winter time made your car runn hotter or knock more then why would people have intercoolers and AI lto cool things down!

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

Air is more dense when it's cooler so if you have enough fuel for winter then summer you can fine tune the air temp correction table during the summer. Lots of people pop their engines cause they were safe in the summer but the cooler winter air makes the engine run lean without them knowing.

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

emailed

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

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