I should be receiving my Apexi PFC today and plan on installing it tonight. When I ordered the new ecu from rx7.com I listed my mods (exhaust, DP, K&N air filter in stock box) and they installed a map for those mods. Yesterday I changed the intake to the Apexi Power intake and wanted to know if this will cause a problem for the map that was installed in the PFC.

Also, I was just reading up on this installation. A few posts mentioned that some wires needed to be clipped to disable some emissions features and make the car idle smoothly. The posts were 3 to 4 years old and may no longer be relevant. Do I still need to clip wires or is this now just plug and play?

I hope I don’t sound like too much of a newB. I just want to make sure that installation goes smoothly.

This is for a 1994 FD.

 

You can run the stock base map timing with those mods. If they gave you the mod map, then the timing is way over safe. More important with any setup is AFR tuning. That is the first thing needed to be done.

 

Thank you for the reply. I got the PFC installed without much trouble. Wish they had taken the time to drill some holes in the body so that it would screw back in place, but the velcro should hold it.

The test drive was amazing, but unfortunately I had some idling issues (I did do the idle learning proceedure). The idle would bounce after using the accelerator, then settle down. It would also run up to 2000 rpm on start up even though my AWS is disabled.

I did some searching and found a post that recommended unplugging the spped control plug behind the UIM. This is a white connector. I then went to the PFC RPM idle setting and raised all of the F/C settings above 1200.

NOW I NEED HELP! When I started the car after making the changes, it was awful. If this was a 4 cylinder it felt as if only 2 cylinders were firing. The engine loped along and alot of smoke came from the exhaust. i reconnected the speed control plug and lowered the F/C settings, but that only brough back partial power. Still idling rough and smoking. I drove around the block and any aggression on the throttle causes the car to buck violently. After running for a couple of minutes nothing changed.

I don't know where to go from here. If any one has a clue about what is going on, please let me know. The only thing I can think of is that after i unplugged the speed control plug and changed the F/C setting, that I should have reset the PFC some how so that it would learn a new idle, but putting everything back the way it was didn't help much. Aside from the surging idle, the engine worked perfectly last night.

I appreciate any assistance because I am stuck.

 

You did not read enough posts about "helping the car to learn to idle or how to deactivate the idle control" ; or else you did not comprehend what was written.

Replace the ISC white connector as you can not deactivate the ISC control without having a DATALOGIT and a lot more tuning experince.

Go back an search about idle control were I had posted. Also read in the Mazda manual about the two ways to physically alter the idle.

I am cewrx7r1.

 

Chuck is back!!!

 

With the ISC reconnected:
(1) adjust throttle linkage so that it just fully opens the throttle 100% and does not overpower the complete linkage.
(2) disconnect the battery for about 5 minutes.
(3) close the throttle body air bleed screw all the way then open it 2 turns.
(4) adjust the throttle body idle set screw 1/4 turn CW after it just engages. THIS
is with the hot wax rod cold start unit disengaged.

This is the basic starting point for idle control.

 

Thank you for the help. i have reconnected everything, but the car is still idling very rough, from the disconect. Can someone tell me what the 3 original FC settings were before I changed them to over 1200. I thought I remembered them correctly, but perhaps I did not.

 

Okay, what exactly did I do when I disconected the ISC white connector? I have reinstalled the stock ecu and the car will not start. I can't get it to fire even once. I just have no idea what is going on in the engine. I'm going to have a look at the spark plugs.

 

I pulled a spark plug. I don't remember the numbers, but it was the top plug on the rear rotor. The top is coated in oil and fuel. I could replace all of the spark plugs, but is this an indicator of something serious that needs to be addressed first. If there is oil/fuel in the rotor then probably should be removed before replacing the plugs, correct?

I feel like such a noob right now.

 

Find someone who knows what he/she is doing and have them fix the mess.

 

Thanks for the condesention. It helps. It really does. In fact I think the smugness just made car start up on its own. It's a miracle. Perhaps i should just find someone with a lower opinion of themselves.

 

I would...

1. Reset the PFC with the Commander or by unhooking the battery for some time and pushing the break pedal. This will clear any codes incase you are in "limp mode" which defaults to pig rich and could cause the spark plugs to foul and the roughness at idle.

2. Check the vacuum hose connections to the MAP sensor at the top driver side firewall to the back of the UIM. Maybe you knocked something loose while behind the UIM.

3. Try a different set of spark plugs.

4. Restart the car and see if the problem is solved.

5. Find someone who knows what he/she is doing and have them fix the mess .

 

Thanks for the reply Matt. I bought some new plugs today and will install them when I get home.