Power FC How does this timing map look so far?
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How does this timing map look so far?
I based this map on Chuck's Non-Sequential 350hp map, thanks again to Chuck for all the help. I really appreciate it.
Basically I took Chuck's map for the non-sequential twins and pulled 2-3 degrees of timing in the higher RPM cells to compensate for my ported motor. Chuck was on basically stock ports and I am on a medium street port.
Let me know how it looks so far, I think I might have retarded a few cells a bit too much in the lower boost cells.
I modified it so that in the end it is still running an 8 max split like chuck originally had in this timing map.
Any input would be appreciated, I'm still going to work on it and tweek it a bit before I put it into action. I just want to make sure I don't get any timing induced knock.
Thanks!
http://www.carforums.net/1Bad7Timing.xls
Basically I took Chuck's map for the non-sequential twins and pulled 2-3 degrees of timing in the higher RPM cells to compensate for my ported motor. Chuck was on basically stock ports and I am on a medium street port.
Let me know how it looks so far, I think I might have retarded a few cells a bit too much in the lower boost cells.
I modified it so that in the end it is still running an 8 max split like chuck originally had in this timing map.
Any input would be appreciated, I'm still going to work on it and tweek it a bit before I put it into action. I just want to make sure I don't get any timing induced knock.
Thanks!
http://www.carforums.net/1Bad7Timing.xls
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I would suggest taking out one more degree for N1- N20 for P16 - P20.
Change split to 10 for boost and taper to 8 above N13. This is a starting point.
If you tune in summer and knock is high, you know you need to retard. But you always need to go back and check it in winter when power goes up greatly due to more condensed air. If winter knock levels are good, summer will be safer unless your air temps are high.
Change split to 10 for boost and taper to 8 above N13. This is a starting point.
If you tune in summer and knock is high, you know you need to retard. But you always need to go back and check it in winter when power goes up greatly due to more condensed air. If winter knock levels are good, summer will be safer unless your air temps are high.
Last edited by cewrx7r1; 06-07-06 at 05:19 PM.
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Originally Posted by cewrx7r1
I would suggest taking out one more degree for N1- N20 for P16 - P20.
Change split to 10 for boost and taper to 8 above N13.
Change split to 10 for boost and taper to 8 above N13.
Gotcha, I'll mess with it a bit more and post it up again. Thanks Chuck
ALSO: Did you mean 1 degree from N1-N20, or N10-N20??
I assumed you meant N10-N20 since the street port doesn't seem to create more power until after 4500 RPMs
Last edited by xblazinlv; 06-07-06 at 05:32 PM.
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How does this look.....
I took the split up to 10 from P16 and above from 4400 RPMs and up.
I also removed 1 degree of timing from the cells you mentioned.
http://www.carforums.net/1Bad7Timing-2.xls
I took the split up to 10 from P16 and above from 4400 RPMs and up.
I also removed 1 degree of timing from the cells you mentioned.
http://www.carforums.net/1Bad7Timing-2.xls
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Originally Posted by xblazinlv
Gotcha, I'll mess with it a bit more and post it up again. Thanks Chuck
ALSO: Did you mean 1 degree from N1-N20, or N10-N20??
I assumed you meant N10-N20 since the street port doesn't seem to create more power until after 4500 RPMs
ALSO: Did you mean 1 degree from N1-N20, or N10-N20??
I assumed you meant N10-N20 since the street port doesn't seem to create more power until after 4500 RPMs
Looks good.
Last edited by cewrx7r1; 06-07-06 at 11:55 PM.
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Put the map into the power FC, definitely feels good. I need to get a datalogit so I can log the knock readings and boost, but for the most part it feels pretty good and I didn't notice knock above the 1 bar level, and my service engine light never came on under WOT.
Car pulled hard, and made pretty good power at only 9psi. I made a couple 4th gear pulls from like 65-120 and it was there pretty quick. I can't wait to actually turn the boost up and put in the bigger fuel system.
I think I'm going to order my data logit this week, so I'll let you guys know exactly what the knock readings and such are once I can log it.
Another thing: I'm still on the base map fuel settings from the Power FC Base mod map, and at 10psi the highest A/F ratio I'm seeing around 7500 RPMs is 12.0
Not too shabby, I'm sure I'll probably add more fuel just to be on the safe side, but overall I'd have to say the base mod map fuel settings are not that bad to start out with at low boost. Most of the time at 10psi I was between 11.5-11.7
Car pulled hard, and made pretty good power at only 9psi. I made a couple 4th gear pulls from like 65-120 and it was there pretty quick. I can't wait to actually turn the boost up and put in the bigger fuel system.
I think I'm going to order my data logit this week, so I'll let you guys know exactly what the knock readings and such are once I can log it.
Another thing: I'm still on the base map fuel settings from the Power FC Base mod map, and at 10psi the highest A/F ratio I'm seeing around 7500 RPMs is 12.0
Not too shabby, I'm sure I'll probably add more fuel just to be on the safe side, but overall I'd have to say the base mod map fuel settings are not that bad to start out with at low boost. Most of the time at 10psi I was between 11.5-11.7
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