So I'm getting ready to install a Power FC and have a couple of hopeful quick questions before I do so.

1) My car is 92' JDM and the airpump has been disabled. I tried everything to get it to work with no luck. I asked my mechanic and he said it may have been disabled in the CPU. So I thought I would wait till I got a PFC and go from there. When I took off the old ECU I noticed a few of the pins had been jumpered and 1 was pulled right out. So could this have disabled the air pump? From what I can tell 4D(GND)[Brown/Black Wire] is jumpered to 1U(Fuel Thermosensor)[Pink Wire] and 1S(Stop Light Switch)[Green] is pulled right out and then 1S is jumpered to 1P(which is nothing on the diagram). Does This make any sense?

2) Like I said my car is a JDM so do I have to cut those 4 wires for the PFC to work. From what I've read the PFC is actually made for JDM's so this souldn't have to be done? The wires are actually still there though?

3) I also bought a walbro fuel pump a while ago. Should I install this first?

4) Will the base map be good for my setup? ARC airbox with K&N filters, downdipe, Bonez highflow cat, 3" cat back exhaust. All the fluids have been changed, plug and wires (NGK), fuel filter, oil filter, O2 Sensor, water pump, Rad and coolant hoses, coolant level sensor, couplers, and ground wire kit. Everthing else with the engine is stock. (about 50, 000 km)

5) Is there anything else I should do before I switch over?

Thanks

 

anybody ...

Okay so I've been searching all night and this is what I've found.

2)I should be okay. 3)I should do everything I'm planning on doing before I do the idle learn. 4) Should be good till I'm ready for a dyno tune. 5) I should be good.

but ... 1) I still don't understand the jumpered wires.

Does anyone know?

 

I'm the guy with the 92 JDM with the same jumpered wires. I still have no idea why they are jumpered nor am I brave enough to start cutting and see what happens. Are yours spliced with red T-connectors?

With respect to the airpump, mine was disabled when the car arrived. I couldn't figure out why it was disconnected, and I was unhappy with the way the car was idleing, so I went in search of trying to re-enable it. I had the same problem as you where everything appeared to be connected fine but the airpump would not work. It turns out the mechanic had actually cut both air pump wires before the connector on top of the airpump instead of just disconnecting the connector. It was very hard to find because where the wires had been cut there was a protective wire sheath over top of it. Your situation is probably the same where they've just cut the air pump wires in a hidden place.

I like how my car runs alot better now the air pump is back on. Had to readjust the idle afterwords though.

 

Okay so here's where I'm at now ...

Installed fuel pump. Fairly easy to do.

Installed the Power FC. Also pretty straight forward. So the airpump was actually disabled in the ecu. It kicked in after installing Power FC. Had to mod ARC air box to open up hoses for it. Did the idle learn and then had to adjust idle screws. Idles much better and actually sits around 750-800 rpms. The check sensor for the fuel on the Power FC was highlighted so I cut the jumper from D4 to U1 and all seems good. No more highlighted fuel sensor. Didn't make a difference on how the car runs (I think). I think it may have to do with the AWS. On start up my car has always started around 1500 and then drops down to nornally idle speed. I tried cutting the other jumper (1S to 1P) and no change in the how it runs or on any of the sensors on the Power FC. Also tried to rehook up the green wire to S1. Still no change. So I left it jumper and disconnected. I think it may have something to do with resetting the error codes on the stock ecu. I read somewhere you can reset error codes by turning off the car and stepping on the brake for 10 secs. I could be wrong about the jumpers. Just my guess.

Next I have to bypass the exhaust heat sensor. It was damage when I install the highfow cat and now the heat light stays on. I've read you just have to jumper the plug under the seat to disable it. Does anybody know if I do this will the Power FC still be able to use the Heat light as a warning light?

Do I have to do anything else with the Power FC or is the preloaded map okay? I've read I may have to set the idle differently and chage the boost settings?
I do plan on getting it dyno tuned but not yet. I may change the intercooler first and possible some other things. Don't want to have to pay for another tune after I change a few more things. Not made of money if you know what I mean.

 

Update ...

So I found the wire for the heat sensor under the seat and disconnected and jumpered it. No more heat light on. Here are some pictures just in case anybody wants to know where it is. You don't have to take off the carpet like some of the other posts suggest. I still don't know if the Power FC will still be able to use the heat light as a warning light. Is there anyway to test that?

I also finished my start button switch mod. Here are some pics of that.