Does anyone else have something FC Tweak related they can readily contribute to this thread. I feel a lot of good stuff on the google group needs to be shorthanded and posted here, just a summary over the past couple months. Many questions have been asked with several positive outcomes.

 

For us newbies using FC Tweak, If anyone has a video using the DL-340XB with FC Tweak that would be helpful rather than with FC Edit.

 

The DL-340XB includes its own user friendly software. You do not need to configure any complicated aux port settings, simply select your wideband AFR gauge model, and it will self configure. Then just click on Datalogging menu option and capture a 30 minutes long driving session covering the map zone you wish to tune. If it's your first tune, first log a cruising session, autotune, then low boost, mid and high boost auto-tuning at each stage, until FC-Tweak auto-tunes the whole map and shows a tuning score of over 80%. You've got detailed user manuals and free membership to a dedicated Google support group (see manual).



DL-340XB main menu

 

how much is the fc tweak packages? i saw a mention of $1300 with the handheld on the facebook page(i hate facebook based sales btw, scrolling for info aggravates me as it does everyone else i'm sure), is there a base package for just the software available?

 

FC-Tweak Pro costs only $220 and runs on any Windows PC. You may contact me at ingxborg on gmail. You can use the software to autotune any rotary PFC setup either with the old DL box or with the newer DL-340XB USB interface.

 

Thanks for the info, will let my friends know who use the PFC.

 

i want to, but since the auto tune is so good, anything i do is really pretty dull.
i changed the air temp to fuel value at 50c, 1 was too much fuel, 0.95 is very close (mine richens up when it gets warm, or it used too)

 

Hey folks, just wanted to give a quick shout out to Xavier @Xavier Borg . He's been incredibly generous with his time and support troubleshooting some issues with my car that kept me from being able to start using his amazing setup. Definitely went above and beyond, and anyone who's considering pulling the trigger on the FC Tweak + DL-340XB interface should absolutely do so. Also, be sure to pick up a WBO2, like the AEM 30-0334 X series.

Looking forward to putting this setup through its paces.

Cheers all.
Stephen

 

Hey guys, have a couple of quick questions as I go through an initial first log. I'm on the last few Tweaks at the Injector stage and because I have 850cc injectors all around, it's flagging that they should be adjusted, as well as several parameters in the dwell time, etc. I was wondering if anyone has the data sheet for a set of Bosch 850cc injectors? I've thought of reaching out to them directly, but I don't even have a model number at this point (they were installed a long time ago). Specifically the injector latency/dead time data sheet.

Second question, I was wondering if there was a way to go in a manually enter a value after tweaking. I see that you can either accept the Tweak or Mask it. But if I want to update that data sheet, what's the best way to do that?

Thanks!

 

You can manually edit any PFC setting using PFC Connect, the software which is included with the DL-340XB interface. Just press Alt-F to open your file in advanced editing mode.

 

concerning calibrating the map, I am unclear why we would want to target 0. Should we be targeting a number that’s inline with our altitude?

for me it makes little difference since I am at sea level but those in the mountains it may be something to consider.

 

Questions regarding the fuel temp sensor and wideband bung location.

I am missing the temp sensor since I have an upgraded rail that wasn’t engineered correctly for the sensor. After learning more about adding one, I don’t think I have the skillset and comfort level to go in there to add one. With that said, under what conditions would fuel become materially hot? I think, if I remember correctly, the scale was 60 degrees c for like a 3.9% increase in fuel.

Does fuel only get this hot when on the track or is this common occurrence? I am asking bc I am limited to the “conservative” setting for auto tune since I am missing the sensor. I’d like to run atleast moderate targets. .

i also wonder how how much my afr are impacted by having the afr bung installed in the mp. I am literally an inch from the flange to the dp, so not far back at all. But again, just trying to understand specifics. My thinking here is that I could be experiencing a leaner reading than if my sensor bung was in the dp. So I am actually richer than the gauge shows??? Make sense?

my car was lean, 12.5 afr at wot at high boost, for ten years (I was lied to about the tuning that was done all that time ago but that’s a seperate topic). I learned this when I installed my wideband in preparation for the tweak and saw ratio and not to mention the car ran like crap, among other things.

Anyways now that I am on a more conservative (accurate) tune I notice lots of popping from the exhaust which I assume is due to having a richer mix than I am used to. This is something that is new to me and definitely not bad. Just new. I am fine with it. But just wanted to understand these specifics about my setup. I don’t track my car. I don’t even drive it hard. Even if my fuel was to get to the upper range, 3.9% is going to make a 10.9 target more like 11.3 and given the sensor location maybe I am ok. I wanted to understand this better before raising these topics to Xavier. Maybe it’s worth bringing up. Maybe it’s not.

thoughts?

 

Hi Matt, That's a good question. The atmospheric pressure at sea level is 760, and the PFC displays the value of your atmospheric pressure less 760 as your differential pressure, so at sea level one would want to see zero mmHg at key on. (plus or minus a couple of mmHg due to daily changes in weather conditions). At higher elevations, barometric pressure is lower, so the Commander will show a larger negative value in mmHg at key on. Most often this value is not correct and has to be calibrated. Back to your original question, why do you want it to read zero? It's because the Apexi uses this reading for boost control. Boost control depends on differential pressure which should always read zero at key on, but which the PFC is not able to compute properly (other than at sea level) since it has no internal barometric pressure sensor. This function is only enabled on PFC Master upgrades. So, if one calibrates the boost reading according to his altitude pressure (resulting in a negative offset at key on), the PFC will continuously read lower boost than actual, for example at 1000m altitude, the PFC will overdrive the turbos by +1.5psi over your boost target. So, if you have a stock twin turbo set for a boost target of 15psi (which is already over its design specs), the PFC will overdrive it to16.5psi while you only see 15psi on its boost gauge. This usually results in cracked turbo manifolds and other turbine problems. So, by calibrating the boost reading to read zero at key on, despite driving at elevations above sea level, it will protect your turbos from such harm. That said, while the turbos are driven safer, the PFC will also read the maps from higher PIM cells, making the fuel mixture richer than what's required and pull out some timing, thus leaving some non utilized horses. So, this is a matter of compromising power for turbo longevity. So, at any elevation above sea level, the only way for the PFC to be able to drive the engine to its power limit while running your turbos safely and reading correct differential boost pressure is by upgrading to the PFC Master which re-calibrates its differential boost reading according to the barometric pressure and hence properly compensates for different elevation pressures. This issue becomes most relevant at elevations around or above 1000m.

 

i'm running the stock 2 speed fuel pump setup, and my fuel temp log is pretty dull
i looked at a couple of logs and starting on a ~15c day with the car already warmed up, fuel temp starts at 10c and after the ~20 minutes is up to 21-22c.
i'm not sure what happens if i keep driving (i should find out), but i'd expect temps to go up some more.
mine is just a street car, so no idea what would happen at a track, but i would expect temps to be higher

 

With FC-Tweak, any Apexi PFC can be tuned for AFRs to within 1% repeatability across all seasons. If you simply consider that the variations due to seasonal changes alone on fuel temperature already exceed 4% even before adding the effects of fuel rail heat soaking, then it should be easy to understand that nobody should be driving an FD without a fuel temp sensor. That's the only sensor with which the ECU is able to compensate for changes in fuel density. So, anyone driving an aggressive or untuned fuel map without such sensor would simply be asking for trouble.

 

Is there a way to see injectors duty on logs or real time monitoring ? Surprised

 

Yes, sure injector duty is shown on Real time data monitoring. Note that injector duty is a parameter you can also view directly by viewing the fuel map using FC-Tweak (Inj duty view), meaning that you can know your inj duty values for each map cell even before driving.

 

What can I do with fc tweak to lower fuel on warm starts?

I have always had a warm start issue. When the car was freshly rebuilt it existed and it exists today. And possibly it’s slightly worse since I began autotuning (maybe it added fuel on warm starts). And yes I had compression checked and it’s fine.

basically I had a very large vacuum leak that took me a week to solve. But I noticed this leak entirely fixed my warm start issue. I think the added unmetered air balanced out the fuel issue. Make sense?

I recognize that I need to fix whatever is causing too much fuel on warm starts and I am looking into that. But in the meantime is there something I can do with TWEAK to remove fuel when the engine is cranking on hot starts.

on a side note, the hot start issue happens after it sits for more than a few minutes. For example if I stop for 2-3 minutes to get gas, the car starts right up. But if I let it sit for more than five minutes that is when the issue exists. Does this sound like a leaky injector?

I think I have a few issues related to my fuel setup. I have very large injectors yet I am running high 80s duty while only making 350-375 on low boost. I’ll tackle all this over the winte but for now I am trying learn more.

 

Sounds more like you need to be troubleshooting fuel pressure. There is a cranking injection vs temp table but it caps at 80c. Either way, I don't think trying to tune out an actual equipment issue is the right approach. Monitor fuel pressure and check your in tank equipment for faults.

Your description sounds exactly like what happens when the factory o ring connection at the pump fails or is failing. It's a symptom but not necessarily the root issue. Overall it sounds like a fuel pressure issue to me

 

Your problem is clearly in the hardware, most probably a fuel system problem. You may alleviate the problem by manually reducing both cranking fuel amount and fuel enrichment factor vs coolant temp for the 50C entry, but the proper solution is to repair the problem causing this.
Both these adjustments can be done through an FC-Commander.
To start with, check that the fuel system holds its pressure after key-off according to Mazda's service manual.

 

Ill dig into the hardware soon once the fall driving season ends.

Ill see how bd the warm start is this weekend and decide if i want to tune around the issue alittle.. thank you

 

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