Power FC FC throttle problems.
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 66
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From: Norway
FC throttle problems.
Maybe wrong section to put this but.
I finaly got the FC started with the pfc.
after many days of work, and allot of mechanical problems the car started.
It is now running on idle, and all sensors are working.
The idle is still a bit rough.
On my FD I adjusted the screw under the elbow to fix that, but on an FC I am not sure how to solve this problem.
Second problem is:
There is no throttle respons, throttle cable is adjusted.
But opening the throttle makes close to no different.
I have never worked with a FC before, and this issue is bugging me.
The main different I se compared to my FD, is the TPS.
It can also be a mechanical problem, but right now, I am checking into the PFC.
I finaly got the FC started with the pfc.
after many days of work, and allot of mechanical problems the car started.
It is now running on idle, and all sensors are working.
The idle is still a bit rough.
On my FD I adjusted the screw under the elbow to fix that, but on an FC I am not sure how to solve this problem.
Second problem is:
There is no throttle respons, throttle cable is adjusted.
But opening the throttle makes close to no different.
I have never worked with a FC before, and this issue is bugging me.
The main different I se compared to my FD, is the TPS.
It can also be a mechanical problem, but right now, I am checking into the PFC.
S1: I finaly got the FC started with the pfc. The idle is still a bit rough.
On my FD I adjusted the screw under the elbow to fix that, but on an FC I am not sure how to solve this problem.
A1: On the FD you had adjusted the air adjusting screw (AAS) which is only a fine idle air flow adjustment. This could have also been done with the throttle adjusting screw (TAS). These only affect air flow. Adjust the FC TB air flow for approximate rpms then adjust timing and fuel for best idle (engine fully warmed up). Then when you start the cold engine, adjust the Water Temp Correction table.
S2: There is no throttle response, throttle cable is adjusted.
But opening the throttle makes close to no different.
A2: You did not say how far you are opening because we all know that fully open would have some type of drastic affect. I suspect the TPS not setup properly.
On my FD I adjusted the screw under the elbow to fix that, but on an FC I am not sure how to solve this problem.
A1: On the FD you had adjusted the air adjusting screw (AAS) which is only a fine idle air flow adjustment. This could have also been done with the throttle adjusting screw (TAS). These only affect air flow. Adjust the FC TB air flow for approximate rpms then adjust timing and fuel for best idle (engine fully warmed up). Then when you start the cold engine, adjust the Water Temp Correction table.
S2: There is no throttle response, throttle cable is adjusted.
But opening the throttle makes close to no different.
A2: You did not say how far you are opening because we all know that fully open would have some type of drastic affect. I suspect the TPS not setup properly.
https://www.rx7club.com/power-fc-forum-47/my-s4-turbo-ii-tuning-tips-banzai-adapter-728246/ Here is a writeup I did for getting the Power FC running on a series 4 car.
You didn't tell us what Power FC setup you are running. Is this an s5 car with an AP Engineering Power FC? Is this an s5 or s4 car on the Banzai Racing kit? It is important because it affects the TPS wiring.
If it is an s5 car you need to calibrate the TPS according to spec and check VTA1 and VTA2 in the commander sensor check screen. If it is a series 4 car you need to splice FD pin 3F and I think pin 3G (narrow and full range wires) together, so that VTA1 and VTA2 read the same voltage. Then adjust your throttle body stop screw (kinda like the throttle adjust screw on the FD I think, the FC turbo throttle body does not have an air adjust screw) if you have to, once the car is fully warmed up.
The throttle body stop screw is on the back of the TB (inaccessible with the stock intercooler on unless you build a test pipe for diagnostic purposes, which I recommend here), it's got a hex nut on it that you have to loosen up and then use a flat head screwdriver to adjust it. The throttle butterflies rest against this screw. If the car still has the BAC valve (FC equivalent of the ISC on the FD) there is an adjuster screw on that as well, but I have mine removed so I can't tell you how exactly to mess with that.
After the stop screw is set close to where it needs to be, if you have an s4 car adjust your TPS screw so that both VTA1 and VTA2 read .7 - 1.0 volts, something in that range. I have no BAC valve, with all idle speeds set to 0 in the PFC to enable manual idle control. Then I adjusted the stop screw to 850ish rpm (ported though so it fluctuates) with VTA1 and VTA 2. Advancing the timing at idle helps stability and cold starts, or at least on my car it did. I would say start with idle timing around 12 degrees. Once again, the s5 TPS is functionally the same as the FD TPS so that may not apply.
You didn't tell us what Power FC setup you are running. Is this an s5 car with an AP Engineering Power FC? Is this an s5 or s4 car on the Banzai Racing kit? It is important because it affects the TPS wiring.
If it is an s5 car you need to calibrate the TPS according to spec and check VTA1 and VTA2 in the commander sensor check screen. If it is a series 4 car you need to splice FD pin 3F and I think pin 3G (narrow and full range wires) together, so that VTA1 and VTA2 read the same voltage. Then adjust your throttle body stop screw (kinda like the throttle adjust screw on the FD I think, the FC turbo throttle body does not have an air adjust screw) if you have to, once the car is fully warmed up.
The throttle body stop screw is on the back of the TB (inaccessible with the stock intercooler on unless you build a test pipe for diagnostic purposes, which I recommend here), it's got a hex nut on it that you have to loosen up and then use a flat head screwdriver to adjust it. The throttle butterflies rest against this screw. If the car still has the BAC valve (FC equivalent of the ISC on the FD) there is an adjuster screw on that as well, but I have mine removed so I can't tell you how exactly to mess with that.
After the stop screw is set close to where it needs to be, if you have an s4 car adjust your TPS screw so that both VTA1 and VTA2 read .7 - 1.0 volts, something in that range. I have no BAC valve, with all idle speeds set to 0 in the PFC to enable manual idle control. Then I adjusted the stop screw to 850ish rpm (ported though so it fluctuates) with VTA1 and VTA 2. Advancing the timing at idle helps stability and cold starts, or at least on my car it did. I would say start with idle timing around 12 degrees. Once again, the s5 TPS is functionally the same as the FD TPS so that may not apply.
Last edited by arghx; Aug 19, 2008 at 05:56 PM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 66
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From: Norway
Thanks Arghx.
It is an S5 engine, with s4 harness.
I use an Ap engenering PFC, and Banzai s4 kit.
I got everything working now.
And I have a s4 tps.
So i will make the changes to the wireing.
Working on my FD right now, but will get this sorted out some time next week.
Will keep you guys updated on the progress.
Thanks again.
It is an S5 engine, with s4 harness.
I use an Ap engenering PFC, and Banzai s4 kit.
I got everything working now.
And I have a s4 tps.
So i will make the changes to the wireing.
Working on my FD right now, but will get this sorted out some time next week.
Will keep you guys updated on the progress.
Thanks again.
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