so i disconnected my AC compressor and AC evaporator recently and the car will not turn over.

the starter cranks the car about 300rpm all day long, with no signs of the engine trying to turn.

i just noticed that my power fc reads -25deg for both trailing and leading. (battery is only at 10v right now since its slowly dying because car has sat for a week)
fsm says trail -20 and lead -5 is normal.

what should i check for? there was a sensor on the ac compressor that was cut (blue with a white (ground?) connector that went into the compressor.

none of the sensors on the pfc are reading out of range. so i am clueless on what is making the car not start

btw. it was driving fine before the compressor&evaporator behind the glove box was removed.

thanks for the help. i really need the car back up and running.

 

It is very obvious that you screwed up some required wiring when removing the
evaporator unit. Check everything in that area.

 

checked all wires near ecu, all connections are together, didnt take any off when removing the evaporator except the temp sensor that was in there. reconnected that as well.

there is a small black connection (1'pin')that isnt connected to anything, and i dont see any place for it to connect to, i think it connected to original ecu?

i took out the spark plugs, egi fuse/relay, fuel pump fuse/relay, and cranked car.
white/grey smoke came out of the holes. had a bit of gasoline on the plugs,

bought new plugs, waited for car to "unflood", retried with everything back in and starter ran up to 220rpm with no signs of turning over.

turned the key to on position and did not hear any sound from the fuelpump above and below tank (no carpet put ear up to panel).. how loud is the fuelpump supposed to be?

here are the pfc readings:
pim: 2.65v vta: 0.48v vta2: 1.15v vmop:1.23v
wtrt: 2.20v airt: 2.15v fuel: 3.75v o2s: .03v

things on: PWS NTR CAT HWL PAC CCN
additional things on during crank: STR FPD

readings when car is put into on position:
igj duty: 0.00% ignT LD -25 deg ign T Tr:-25deg batt volt: 11.3v
rev: 0 airt: 23c wt: 22c


readings when cranking: (peaks)
igj duty: 14.3% ignT LD: 9 deg ign T Tr: 3deg batt volt: 9-10v
rev: 220rpm airt: 23c wt: 22c

fuelpump bad?

 

Most likey that one single conector if it is a black plastic coated female spade and near the firewall, is the fan mod test switch done by Mazda.

When pulling the evap unit, if you disconnected any electrical connectors, you may have removed a power source from some other units.

Look into the electical schematics.

 

Do you have spark?

 

update time...
removed spark plug, pulled f/p relay to prevent further flood.
spark came out even with a slowly dying battery (at 10.8v now) will get it charged up tonight and start fresh tomorrow morning testing the starter.

CAS was never disconnected. and the stock wiring in the bay looks brittle and most of the wires on the driver's side has a coat of what looks like a mix of ps fluid and oil... definitely stains my hands black

when cranking the spark holes go "psst psst pstt" steadily with puffs of white/grey smoke/clouds. maybe it was/still flooded. put my hand in cloud and it came back smelling like gas.

engine is old. sitting at 100,587miles stock engine & turbos. ran good with 12-10-12 boost.

spark. check.
fuel pump. check.
no electrical disconnections in passenger floor.
power fc. set to initialization mode (slight tune saved in dataloggit)
compression seems right(even noises), no autoparts store is loaning testers, so i will pick up one tomorrow. $30 for a cheapolaro brand.

how do you test relays? $60 each is pretty pricey..

also, even if the fuel pump is on and working.. could there be a possibility of it needing to be replaced anyway? same with starter.. if it gets juice, but not putting out to spec

thanks for all the ideas

 

hey did u find the fault? why the car is not starting? I happen to have a similliar issues but I am not sure what the hell to look for because mine it's not flodding, and when I put the factory ecu it start fine, just that power fc it will make one attempt to to start and suddenly die, I am curious to see what was your issues? I am suspecting that y power fc is shot? Also I notice my volt reading is higher than yours but I did not check the trailing and leading degree setting.

 

yes crisis resolved... but other issues just appeared.

my issue was actually pulley belt tension(REALLY LAME). when reinstalling the new belt, the deflection spec on the FSM for me was actually wrong, since it was a shorter belt i was using. i loosened it a bit, put in the stock ecu and idled at 500rpm just above death. replaced ecu and is running a clean 720~750 idle.

was the pfc working before?
put in the stock ecu, then let the car warm-up fully, and then swap to the power fc, might actually start but just idle horribly.
if that doesnt work, try resetting to the base mod map.
the ecu's normally dont go shot very often as far as im aware of.

good luck. and as everyone else will eventually tell you, check spark,compression,fuel.