jpandes

I have been experimenting with it on and off and I have noticed that with it off, it causes my idle to hunt a bit before settling down and smotting out, it also minimizes the backfiring(which is what I'm trying to fix)

So what is this thing for?

rynberg

John,

The O2 feedback is just the standard O2 closed-loop process for cruising conditions. Turning it on and off shouldn't affect your idle at all. I've been running with mine off for a little while as an experiment.

Your O2 sensor is probably bad.

spyfish007

O2 feedback is for air pump/ACV control ... I don't believe it controls closed-loop @ cruise.

RotorJoe

not sure, but I though it was to try to purify the exhaust gases as best as possible.
I would think it would only work on cruise (anything besides WOT).
When I switch mine from ON to OFF, nothing happens. I may build up more carbon deposits on the rear bumper with it off, but I can't tell (car runs way too rich)
Sounds like your O2 sensor may be bad, like stated abvoe.
Goto the sensor check screen (etc.) and watch the O2 voltage.

spyfish007

Well lets talk about a few things here. One, do you have an air pump or ACV on the car? Two, O2 feedback that I was talking about was the following. I don't believe the setting on the PFC affects closed loop at cruise. I don't really have any proof of this, it is a feeling. I have leaned out my fuel map and got better fuel economy by doing that then with this setting either on or off, seq/non/single .... so ever!

Now back to point number one. I don't have an ACV and if I turn that setting on my car idles funny.

spyfish007

I checked to see if it posted and it didn't. So I hit post again and bingo ... double post!

twokrx7

iTrader: (1)

spyfish,

O2 feedback is for lean cruise. If you own a narrowband AFR sensor you will see this clearly. During cruise the AFR will bounce from rich to lean as the O2 feedback works. Turn it off and your cruise AFR will be rock steady.

I turned mine off long ago because it would go into closed loop at very low speeds and even idle. It would buck at low speeds as the motor leaned out and it would sometimes stall at stops.

jpandes

Thanks for responding guys. I am running a midpipe now and the backfring is driving me nuts. When I have the O2 feedback on, my car backfires less, but the idle bouces around and sometimes stalls at lights. My car also idles way richer according to my WB

I'm wondering if my O2 sensor is bad or if I just need to let my PFC "re-learn" my idle by doing the ALL DATA Init...

What do you guys think? Do all FD's with mid pipes backfire?

RotorJoe

If your O2 sensor is bad, the sensor check screen will show it to you.

jpandes

I have a sensor check screen? I'll have to go check that out....

Ok, I have the following things with black indicator dots next to them(I guess that means that these sensors are bad):

NTR
FPD
APR CCN

Now what?

RotorJoe

Look at the PFC manual in the stick at the start of the PFC forum. In there it will tell you what those mean. I thin NTR stands for Neutral. When the light is by it it means active/on.
So you were in neutral, right?
FPD may be fuel pump, do quote me on that. That should be on if the key is "on" or the car is running.
The others I can't remember right now. I can look them up, but you should probably read the manual.

The on you need to look at for your o2 sensor will be, 02S and it will have a viltage by it when the car is running and the 02 sensor has had a chance to warm up. If it reads zero with and I think a black dot that means its bad. Check the manual in the sticky.

RotorJoe

Don't mind all the typos. I looked at mine again and the 02 sensor just has avoltage by it, no black or clear dot. I guess if it reads zero all the time it is bad. But I am not sure, I have never had mine fail on me yet.

rdavidsrx7

see rynbergs post for 100% correctnes....
that being said I turned mine off and have tuned the few cells that it was affecting....p4-p6 between n5 and n10 to run right around stoich because mine was causing my car to surge and I could watch the injector duty cycling between 12 and 16. Now it is smooth and allows much more refinement in the cells I mentioned.

Bob

the_glass_man

iTrader: (2)

So is the consensus, should it stay or should it go? I'm thinking of eliminating the stock o2 wiring from the harness. And replacing it with a full time wideband.

twokrx7

iTrader: (1)

Kill the narrowband and tune it with the wb.

the_glass_man

iTrader: (2)

Awesome, I'll use the stock location for my EGT gauge and put the wideband right before the midpipe.

mr.zoom

iTrader: (1)

so you could cut the wire for the factory O2 sensor, tape it and set the O2 feedback off in the pfc. put the WB sensor in the same location?

twokrx7

iTrader: (1)

Yep

mark57

My experience with three LM-1 WBO2 units is they are all very responsive and accurate; this hasn't been the case with two AEM units. Select wisely.

twokrx7

iTrader: (1)

My AEM wb performed flawlessly ... I just hated it not displaying <11:1

mark57

Last night I rode in a CYM with the impressive PLX M-series WBO2 gauge mounted in steering column pod; it performed superbly with excellent AFR range [incredible richness in low 10's as PFC needs serious retuning].

I shall ascertain the two customer AEM WBO2's [Reinhart Marauder and LS1 FD] get powered with clean signals and grounds and report those findings.

NeoTuri

iTrader: (2)

I love my LM-1 and RPM module. It makes life a little easier.

Aeka GSR

iTrader: (4)

oops posted in wrong forum, ignore